Let’s Talk Paint Maintenance & Repair - Detailing Tips

[coolhandluke]

I'm reading back up on paint maintenance as I prep to clay and remove road bits from the paint:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A68cbZWzA0Y

[coolhandluke]

I'm still going down the rabbit hole. This lead my to this Lamborghini Countach detailing video:
https://youtu.be/1pEU4GMZBxo

[coolhandluke]

This first example clip better aligns with my paint needs. I feel as if I'm over analyzing my scenario but as this car spends time outdoors with tree sap, birds, I have visual paint contamination. I'm likely going to start claying the hood, roof, and front end this week. The car already has ceramic coating (~3yrs old) so I want to get it clean and decontaminated before I opt for a refreshed coating or sealant.

https://youtu.be/qFQsqBHEwrE
*10min clip

Noob intro to Claybar by Chemical Guys:
https://youtu.be/e_TwzGiJWDk
**17min

I'm paranoid so I'll opt for more clay that I will replace more quickly versus using one 1/3-1/14 piece for the entire car as noted in the first clip. This is due to the visual paint contamination noted earlier. I can always repurpose the spent clay on track wheels, etc.

My current plan for claying the car:
-Foam car wash
-C2: Optimum Ferrex first, to lift as much iron/etc from the paint post-wash
-C3: NanoSkin Glide diluted 7:1 water (rec: 10:1-7:1, Obsessed Garage recommends 7:1 for clay)
-Foam car wash
-Spray detailer via P&S Bead Maker Paint Protectant

A future phase will be stripping current ceramic coating, polishing, and recoating.

[coolhandluke]

This was an informative watch for glass cleaning tips:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pF26MwXIIPg

[coolhandluke]

This video helped me understand where the paint is and next steps for my RS's paint, which has a ceramic coating that is ~3yrs old:
https://youtu.be/1-_5loqj2xM?t=252

I have already ordered iron remover. Next week I will plan to get the car clean, de-iron, and inspect.

[RTW DC2R]

Hey detail gurus, looking for your feedback. Had some very light contact on track recently and want to see what options I have. The first pic is after the incident, the other two pics are after a quick wipe with simple green. Its mostly just surface so Im thinking most of it will buff or polish out. I dont expect it to be perfect but Id like to get the brown poop stain out if possible. I may just end up respraying the front and rear bumpers anyway but for now want to see what I can do. Thoughts?

[coolhandluke]

I would:
-Clean with clay to remove surface debris in paint from contact
-Buff with mild polish to remove the brown
-Orbital/similar polisher to level out scratches

I see several (~5x) deep scratches that are down into the bumper. I do feel you can clean off the brown and even out the scratches to make them less noticeable.

[coolhandluke]

Chatting with people smarter than I....

First try:
-3M Perfect-It #3 (Ultra Fine Machine Polish)
-If that doesn’t work, use Perfect-It #2 (Machine Polish)
-Finish with 3M Perfect-It #3 (Ultra Fine Machine Polish)

Or if he wants to use something a bit more expensive and just as good (typically used for high-end finish & glass like clear coats), use Rupes Keramik Fine Machine Polishing Compound.

Rupes Quartz is a more aggressive version of Keramik and can be good for leveling off (rounding the edges) of slightly deeper scratches. No polish will effectively remove deep scratches but rather will alter the optics by softening the edges so light doesn’t reflect as much. It’s the difference between steep 90deg edges versus a mild 15-45deg valley.

Both brands of polish should be applied with a random or rotary polisher.

Looking at the damage I’d say say all but 5-6 deep scratches can be removed fully. Those deep scratches can be leveled enough that you wouldn’t see 15-20ft away. Wet sanding is an option which would probably remove 2-3 of the deeper scratches but you’ll likely rub off a decent amount of paint. Assuming the bumper is OE paint, single stage paint is ofter applied a bit thicker than normal paint (since normal paint also gets a clear coat applied), however, corners and sharp edges often get a slightly thinner coating. You’ll notice it the cost on the edges of door mirrors and around the Integra embossed logo in the bumpers (that’s caused by the way paint pools when wet). Anyhow, just take it one step at a time and try the #3 or #2 then #3 polishing steps first. If you’re still not satisfied consider having it professionally wet sanded. Avoid spot painting (air brushing). While it typically performs miracles, doing it over single stage paint can have mixed results.

[coolhandluke]

More general feedback for single stage owners (CW/PY):

Zaino also offers a polish for regular (single stage polish) called Z-3. It’s worked pretty well for basic maintenance but I’d use the other stuff for damage repair. Also, lots of similar Z-3 alternatives exist that are good enough for maintenance polish/conditioning. The key is regularly conditioning single stage paint with a very mild polish to maintain a factory fresh luster.

[coolhandluke]

I have yet to clay my RS after it has sat outside for years. This clip offered some tips:
https://youtu.be/CTfO7fyKxAU