A quick cautionary note:
On the top of the Integra door there is a seal that Honda identifies as a subseal (see part 15&19 on the diagram below).
Please note that the right side subseal is discontinued.
The front side of this seal wraps deeply in a "v" shape under a lip behind the run channel, it also continues behind the mirror assembly. It is a very bad idea to work with this with this seal with the mirror, or run channel in place.
As proof of this I just happened to tear one trying impatiently to remove an old one (with run channel in place, because the other one I had was torn in the same way) and I'll let you guess which side
PSA: Door Subseals
PSA: Door Subseals
Last edited by aklackner on Fri Aug 02, 2019 4:45 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Re: PSA: Door Subseals
In case like me you do end up tearing a seal, it looks like Permabond 105 might help.
I'm going to give it a try and will share the results.
I'm going to give it a try and will share the results.
Re: PSA: Door Subseals
I know which side , the discontinued side. Yeah ouch! I just installed subseal number 2 on the driver side. This was why my door subseal was pulling off . It was a pain ! Mine tore . Removing it promoted the tear.
Re: PSA: Door Subseals
The little spot by my finger was the original offender. After I tampered with it, the tear progressed . When I removed it the whole thing tore. Subseal is a pita my friend.
PSA: Door Subseals
Good news the info I had found on permabond 105 looks like it was accurate. The bond on my repair was instant (<5 seconds)and looks like it will hold. It should fully cure within 24 hours before I install but I can already manipulate the subseal without the rip separating.
The process was simple: clean well with isopropyl alcohol (91%), air dry, pull rip open, place a small drop inside the rip(one side), re-align and press closed.
The trick is to use very very sparingly. You’ll see in the pictures below that even though I used a single small drop on the tear it flowed onto the visible surface some (it’s a very thin fluid). Acetone will clean up but that seems like a bad idea on rubber.
The process was simple: clean well with isopropyl alcohol (91%), air dry, pull rip open, place a small drop inside the rip(one side), re-align and press closed.
The trick is to use very very sparingly. You’ll see in the pictures below that even though I used a single small drop on the tear it flowed onto the visible surface some (it’s a very thin fluid). Acetone will clean up but that seems like a bad idea on rubber.
Re: PSA: Door Subseals
Not sure the current status of the L subseal, but if someone’s looking for a New one there’s a dealer in VA who has one sitting on the shelf.
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