98-1059 is here to stay

[Sp00nFedFilms]

Sounds like a bad cell. My battery tender errors when the battery is dead. Honda batteries are manufactured by interstate. I get two years and two weeks on my daily cars out here. The prorated cost starts at two weeks. Planned adolescence! I get 3 years on the Honda branded interstate batteries. The ten year warranty is kind of good for 6-7 years because the prorated cost reduces by years. So if you plan on keeping the car at ten years your warranty won't replace it when it konks out after. I have had bad cells in both the Honda and interstate versions. There was a bad batch of lead at some point and the cells were cracking. I believe I got one there was this huge grinding by the battery/ firewall. I never heard such a sound. Two days later the battery died. I replaced it never heard the sound again. I can't exactly brag about Honda/ Acura batteries. Honda is also a pain to deal with. They use the interstate tester. If it passes they won't replace it. Mine always failed, but I have read people being denied and a new battery resolved the issue.

Thanks Dustin. I’m thinking bad cell now maybe too. I’m waiting for the mailman to drop off my rechargeable jump pack now and I will take her for a good ride and see what’s up.

Not much has progressed lately. Just been stacking more body moldings and such to prepare for the permanent extinction. I also picked up the rest of the license plate bulb hardware I needed.

License plate bulb stuff.



Rear wiper squirter.



Out with the the old stuff.



These gaskets were beat!



New foam.



Before and after.



These are the bulbs and hardware to secure the brackets to the bumper.



Before and after.





My next project is getting the evap mounting figured out once and for all. Thankfully Stin had the intermediate bracket I was missing. I also picked up 2 new rubbers as mine were all deformed.



Strangely enough, I believe I have an 00-01 evap purge valve (purple) seeing my engine and harness are 2001. What’s odd is even with the intermediate bracket I was missing, I can get the purge sensor to line up properly. It’s pointing in the wrong direction.





Maybe the sensor is UKDM or something? Idk. But it’s aggravating.

[Sp00nFedFilms]

I was missing the throttle cable stay. I found any Integra one and removed the cruise portion. Now it’s an ITR stay lol.



Stopped at Acura to grab a new battery. Also picked up the parts I needed to my RDX’s first B6 service.



Picked up a new fuel cap and caution label as well.









Also picked up what I thought were the correct condenser stay bolts. Unfortunately, they were just regular 10mm bolts. I wanted what is seen here on the 6K mile 97. Phillips heads.



This is what came instead.





I’m thinking I can just buy the bolts that connect the condenser fan to the shroud. Those also have Phillip heads. We’ll see.

[330R]

Here’s the stock fasteners on my ‘00 and my project ‘98 (accessory a/c):

[Sp00nFedFilms]

Here’s the stock fasteners on my ‘00 and my project ‘98 (accessory a/c):

I’m pretty sure they’re supposed to look like the picture of the 97 I posted. That car is untouched. I may be wrong though. Maybe other 97/98 optional AC cars can confirm what came with the kit.

[330R]

Edit: I looked through my trove of ITR pictures and there are examples of both types of heads. Seems more 97s than 98s had hex/phillips heads. Personally I think the Phillips heads look ugly lol

The p/n 93403-06012-08 is correct for the condenser stay. Edit: Acura shows that p/n for all years except 2000 where it’s missing from the catalog

From the 27k-mile ‘98 that sold on BaT for $65k:

[Stin1]

Here’s the stock fasteners on my ‘00 and my project ‘98 (accessory a/c):

Geez that yellow one looks brand spanking new ! Mark, mine have no Phillips head either. All are blank. No 10 a nipple in the middle. The ones on the fan shroud have 10 on them.

[Sp00nFedFilms]

Here’s the stock fasteners on my ‘00 and my project ‘98 (accessory a/c):

Geez that yellow one looks brand spanking new ! Mark, mine have no Phillips head either. All are blank. No 10 a nipple in the middle. The ones on the fan shroud have 10 on them.

Interesting info. I imagine the 00/01 ITR with standard AC had different hardware. The 97/98 with optional AC maybe the tech just used what they had if it wasn’t part of a kit. Either way, al my hardware is new so no worries. I just tend to obsess over the little OEM details.

On another note, I brought the battery back to Acura yesterday and without issue, they tested it failed and swapped it out. Problem solved (I hope) tender now no longer has an error and car is charged up. I haven’t driven it yet so time will tell if there’s an underlining alternator issue or just a bad battery.



Next up is the interior. I’ve really procrastinated this. But I recently purchased a McCulloch 1375 steamer and am super excited to tackle some shit. Suspension, undercarriage details, engine bay and interior!

[Klasse]

This is a bit obscure but I did see on some car resto TV show that steam cleaners will ruin upholstery over time. Like it causes that yellow powdery crap you sometimes see. Anyone have info on that?

[aklackner]

I imagine the concern isn’t steam cleaning the fabric but steam cleaning the fabric on the seat foam.

The foam is aged and abused, the heat and energy from the steam and any scrubbing force will likely speed its break down (into the yellow dust?)

It might be safest to remove the covers and clean them separately. This also has the advantage of providing access to bolsters so they can be rebuilt/customized too.

[Sp00nFedFilms]

This is a bit obscure but I did see on some car resto TV show that steam cleaners will ruin upholstery over time. Like it causes that yellow powdery crap you sometimes see. Anyone have info on that?

I imagine the concern isn’t steam cleaning the fabric but steam cleaning the fabric on the seat foam.

The foam is aged and abused, the heat and energy from the steam and any scrubbing force will likely speed its break down (into the yellow dust?)

It might be safest to remove the covers and clean them separately. This also has the advantage of providing access to bolsters so they can be rebuilt/customized too.

I think the picture was a bit deceiving guys. I don’t plan on actually steaming the seats, at all! It’s more for the nooks and crannies. The vents, the seat belt buckles, hinges and latches, suspension, brakes and calipers, engine bay. Places you can’t even get well with a brush.

The seats will be some old fashioned style.