It's been a long time since I researched so I can't really help for sources but the link below covers the basic process.
https://www.dynotechtuning.com/pages/en ... uilt-motor
One thing to keep in mind is OEM honing process is much finer than is common for many builders. Depending on how fine your cylinders are honed will determine what break in process should be. The more course the walls, typically the more intense your break-in activity should be since more material will be moved around as rings\cylinder walls are mated which increases the chances of building ridges. With OEM grade honing less should be required to mate the rings\wall so you can be more gentle during break-in since this minimizes risk of break-in particles causing damage.
For first start of my current motor (OEM assembled block+used head cleaned w/ valve job) I used Brad Penn 30w break-in oil.
https://www.amazon.com/Brad-Penn-Oil-00 ... B002RF8IN2 It's stupid expensive (especially flushing through multiple times, green (not sure if its the intent but can help make identifying a leaking fluid more easily), has high levels of ZDDP (so good for our rockers, not so great for the cat). First start was done with the OEM ECU.
Prior to actual first start I pulled the ECU fuse (so no fuel injection or spark), with the valve cover loose and cranked the motor a couple times, then checked to confirm the valve train was well lubricated. Then tightened down the valve cover, reinstalled the ecu fuse. Did a last check over to make sure everything looked good and was connected, then cranked it over for the first time. Changed the oil, restarted after warm up and bleeding coolant I moved on to setting the timing per OEM process.
As per OEM new car guidance I drove it easy for break-in, <500mi. I changed out oil again. Then I swapped to RDX injectors, installed the PLX wideband, and had it dyno tuned on s300.
