Seeking Oil Change Input

[coolhandluke]

....The biggest take I got was if you are doing track events, is to just change for every event. Seems like cheap insurance.

Have you had your oil tested yet? One can send a sample of their oil to Blackstone Labs to data analysis. The analysis could confirm whether one should change their oil earlier, later, or leave interval as is.

Example:
https://www.partsvu.com/blackstone-laba ... sting.html

[Dave7CDMTYPER]

....The biggest take I got was if you are doing track events, is to just change for every event. Seems like cheap insurance.

Have you had your oil tested yet? One can send a sample of their oil to Blackstone Labs to data analysis. The analysis could confirm whether one should change their oil earlier, later, or leave interval as is.

Example:
https://www.partsvu.com/blackstone-laba ... sting.html

Thank you, just ordered a test kit.

[DC2Iggy]

Are you running dino oil or synthetic? I also track but I felt it was better (based off previous research) to run synthetic 10w30 on track over increasing oil weight. I switched to protect against higher oil temps, as I was seeing 270*+ during summer sessions at Gingerman.

Conventional oils will tolerate engine oil sump temperatures of up to 250 to as much as 275 degrees F without difficulty. According to Quaker State engineer Mark Farner, oils like Quaker State's full synthetics can easily withstand sump temperatures in excess of 300 degrees F, and he says that some oval track race teams are experimenting with temperatures as high as 350 degrees F. For a typical wet-sump engine, 300 degrees F is still extremely hot, but Farner says that synthetics, because of their molecular makeup, are better suited to withstand these temperatures. The downside is that additive packages do tend to break down faster in high-temperature environments, so if you plan on running oil temperatures in excess of 300 degrees, this would mean changing the oil after every track event regardless of the mileage.

Reference - Type R Specific question and answers:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/u ... ber=119662

I run synthetic Amsoil 5W40. It has a high TBN / HTHS for better protection and breakdown. On my STI I would send out oil samples every 6000kms (every oil change) for testing. I've used 5W30 in the past and found that it would sheer down to a 5W20 between oil changes. After testing a bunch of Amsoil oils I got the best performance with their 5W40 Euro due to it's high TBN and HTHS. Oil stayed the same viscosity between oil changes and the TBN was still pretty high.

As for the ITR, I'm using the manufacturer's recommended oil viscosity (in ukdm/jdm). For peace of mind I've stuck with the Amsoil 5W40 because of its performance in the past. I know that it won't sheer down to a 5W30 after a track day weekend and can withstand higher temps. The ITR gets oil changes every 2500-3000kms, depending on how hard it's being run.

[Dave7CDMTYPER]

Just read chapters 3 and 4 from Bob the Oil Guy. It seems to me that it'd be a good idea to switch to synthetic, at least in my case with my daily gs-r. Sounds like synthetic has more efficient cold starting, while maintaining more consistent operating viscosity, and lasting longer in terms of oxidation. These factors could help my b18c1, afaik.

[Little_Nolan]

No reason not to go synthetic now a days. It is just as cheap.

I picked up a case of the costco Kirkland brand full synthetic last week. 10 qts for $21.99 (5w-30) Dexos 2 approved. Going to try it in my ZR2 or Civic first. Packaging says its made by Warren, so it should be a quality product.