Lower Torque Mounts

[Gotin]

If you want close to OEM have you looked into the Mugen ones? I can't imagine they ever sold out of them for the price they are.

I'd personally go with the Hasport's, but I've also wanted to swap out my HAsport engine mounts because they look a little out of place in the engine bay.

Calling King Motorsports is on my to do list to find out if they are sold separately from the 5 piece mount kit. I did not find it on their website. If not, I was also considering buying the 5 mounts and selling the 3 motor mounts to recoup the difference.

[Gotin]

King motorsport does not sell the mounts alone, only as part of the 5 piece kit. With 120k on the clock, the sales rep was suggested that all the mounts be replaced. The top pick was the Hasport mount but I have not pulled the trigger yet because of the reviews stating that vibration is drastically increased with the street mounts. There is no hard rubber alternative to the hardrace besides Mugen..... I could not find any posts related to these failing, and if they do fail, I would think it would not be that detrimental to daily operation.

[aw614]

I agree with the King rep at your mileage, you might as well do all the mounts. My rear motor mount on my original rear mount and torque inserts were toast at around 130k or so. At the time I just did the rear mount and torque inserts to hold me over until I did my motor swap

I've put 16k hard miles on my Spoon mounts and they still feel solid and very little vibration to stock, maybe some on a cold start, but otherwise they feel like a stock car.

[yoshi234]

I replaced all my mounts with OEM ITR parts couple years ago. Seems like the engines still rocks a bit more than my liking.
Would it be okay to just replace the two torque mounts with Hasport units?

y shi - who hopes an adequate covid19 treatment is near so that he can go back to work instead of finding things to "fix" on the ITR

[aw614]

I replaced all my mounts with OEM ITR parts couple years ago. Seems like the engines still rocks a bit more than my liking.
Would it be okay to just replace the two torque mounts with Hasport units?

y shi - who hopes an adequate covid19 treatment is near so that he can go back to work instead of finding things to "fix" on the ITR

Old team integra threads had posts about installing ES poly inserts into the stock housings. I assume maybe similar benefits? The last post mentions wheel hope improvement and throttle response
https://www.team-integra.net/threads/wi ... ll.205445/

It's crossed my mine a few times with something stiffer as I get some wheel hop on the track, but I really don't want to attempt to get the passenger side off after I struggled getting it bolted back on with the Mugen intake

[Gotin]

I replaced all my mounts with OEM ITR parts couple years ago. Seems like the engines still rocks a bit more than my liking.
Would it be okay to just replace the two torque mounts with Hasport units?

y shi - who hopes an adequate covid19 treatment is near so that he can go back to work instead of finding things to "fix" on the ITR

Old team integra threads had posts about installing ES poly inserts into the stock housings. I assume maybe similar benefits? The last post mentions wheel hope improvement and throttle response
https://www.team-integra.net/threads/wi ... ll.205445/

It's crossed my mine a few times with something stiffer as I get some wheel hop on the track, but I really don't want to attempt to get the passenger side off after I struggled getting it bolted back on with the Mugen intake

I am currently seeing the difficulties with the Mugen intake. Any advice? When I installed the intake, I pinched an a/c line that sprung a leak. I am hoping it does not require it to be moved...

[aw614]

I replaced all my mounts with OEM ITR parts couple years ago. Seems like the engines still rocks a bit more than my liking.
Would it be okay to just replace the two torque mounts with Hasport units?

y shi - who hopes an adequate covid19 treatment is near so that he can go back to work instead of finding things to "fix" on the ITR

Old team integra threads had posts about installing ES poly inserts into the stock housings. I assume maybe similar benefits? The last post mentions wheel hope improvement and throttle response
https://www.team-integra.net/threads/wi ... ll.205445/

It's crossed my mine a few times with something stiffer as I get some wheel hop on the track, but I really don't want to attempt to get the passenger side off after I struggled getting it bolted back on with the Mugen intake

I am currently seeing the difficulties with the Mugen intake. Any advice? When I installed the intake, I pinched an a/c line that sprung a leak. I am hoping it does not require it to be moved...

The biggest tip I have is to see if you can allow enough slack on the intake by keeping all the main mounting bolts of the intake off until the torque mount is installed. You need to be able to move it around to see if you can get the torque mount bolted on.

Before AEM discontinued their lower torque mount bracket, I was able to buy one, but this gave me more clearance. Even then, I still couldn't get the intake installed smoothly. But I think anyone with a CNC machine could probably reproduce that piece?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ais-32-3023

I also removed the radiator mounting brackets off so that I could move the radiator around I was able to get just enough space to get the torque mount bolt on. Even then, I couldn't get a good feel tightening the torque mount to the frame and had to just hope the bolt didn't back out as I I was using a racketing wrench to tighten it.

I will say, if you can remove the radiator it might be easier, even then, installing that intake was a miserable experience. I split my Ac lines in a "V" position and luckily didn't destroy a line. But I don't think there is a way to install the intake without scratching the lower portions up.

Hopefully this makes sense.

[coolhandluke]

I replaced all my mounts with OEM ITR parts couple years ago. Seems like the engines still rocks a bit more than my liking.
Would it be okay to just replace the two torque mounts with Hasport units?

y shi - who hopes an adequate covid19 treatment is near so that he can go back to work instead of finding things to "fix" on the ITR

I would be careful when replacing individual pieces. Just adding stiff lower torque mounts may lead to unintended consequences, such as moving more energy than desired to the rear motor mount. Examle, the old Jim Fab mounts included a rear mount + lower torque mounts for this reason. Mileage may vary, I have not tested the Hasport lower pieces.

[Gotin]

Old team integra threads had posts about installing ES poly inserts into the stock housings. I assume maybe similar benefits? The last post mentions wheel hope improvement and throttle response
https://www.team-integra.net/threads/wi ... ll.205445/

It's crossed my mine a few times with something stiffer as I get some wheel hop on the track, but I really don't want to attempt to get the passenger side off after I struggled getting it bolted back on with the Mugen intake

I am currently seeing the difficulties with the Mugen intake. Any advice? When I installed the intake, I pinched an a/c line that sprung a leak. I am hoping it does not require it to be moved...

The biggest tip I have is to see if you can allow enough slack on the intake by keeping all the main mounting bolts of the intake off until the torque mount is installed. You need to be able to move it around to see if you can get the torque mount bolted on.

Before AEM discontinued their lower torque mount bracket, I was able to buy one, but this gave me more clearance. Even then, I still couldn't get the intake installed smoothly. But I think anyone with a CNC machine could probably reproduce that piece?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ais-32-3023

I also removed the radiator mounting brackets off so that I could move the radiator around I was able to get just enough space to get the torque mount bolt on. Even then, I couldn't get a good feel tightening the torque mount to the frame and had to just hope the bolt didn't back out as I I was using a racketing wrench to tighten it.

I will say, if you can remove the radiator it might be easier, even then, installing that intake was a miserable experience. I split my Ac lines in a "V" position and luckily didn't destroy a line. But I don't think there is a way to install the intake without scratching the lower portions up.

Hopefully this makes sense.

Thanks for the heads up.
It went smoother than I thought. I removed the intake tube, filter, and the horn? leaving only the housing of the intake. With it unbolted it gave enough wiggle room. For anyone that needs to do this, I recommend a swivel head socket and normal size 14mm (not deep). The 19mm nut on the outside required an impact since it looked to be the oem mount that was removed.

[coolhandluke]

Thanks for the heads up.
It went smoother than I thought. I removed the intake tube, filter, and the horn? leaving only the housing of the intake. With it unbolted it gave enough wiggle room. For anyone that needs to do this, I recommend a swivel head socket and normal size 14mm (not deep). The 19mm nut on the outside required an impact since it looked to be the oem mount that was removed.

If you write out steps with recommended tools list in a separate thread? We could add it into the tech section as an official how-to thread. I would buy you at the next Type R community gathering.