Brakes 101 (and 102)
Re: Brakes 101 (and 102)
Decided to try out the Legend 2-piston calipers. I am in the process of getting some NSX calipers refinished but wanted to try these Legend calipers out as well since they have slightly more piston surface area compared to the NSX calipers. I had a track day today that I had to cancel unfortunately so I didnt get to thoroughly test them out. They do feel very nice on the street with good modulation. Used the same pads I was using on the original setup.
94-95 Legend 2 piston calipers (GS model I believe) with the 28T bracket
28mm rotor Legend GS rotor
Used 2mm steel washer between caliper bracket and spindle
I didnt feel comfortable adding a washer and using the stock caliper bolts so I was able to source some longer bolts at Autozone. M12x1.25 class 10 bolt, 25mm long fits perfectly.
Will update once I get to thoroughly test them out on track and/or when I swap to the NSX calipers.
94-95 Legend 2 piston calipers (GS model I believe) with the 28T bracket
28mm rotor Legend GS rotor
Used 2mm steel washer between caliper bracket and spindle
I didnt feel comfortable adding a washer and using the stock caliper bolts so I was able to source some longer bolts at Autozone. M12x1.25 class 10 bolt, 25mm long fits perfectly.
Will update once I get to thoroughly test them out on track and/or when I swap to the NSX calipers.
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98-0034 (sold)
00-XXXX (sold)
practice chaos to develop control.
00-XXXX (sold)
practice chaos to develop control.
Re: Brakes 101 (and 102)
That is a meaty tire. Would you mind panning out to show the whole car on the ground to show how it sits/looks? Pretty please!!! On a side note, have you driven with that tire yet and felt any significant change in gearing?
Re: Brakes 101 (and 102)
Do you have to bleed the calipers upside down with the legend fronts? I found a set for sale back in April, but backed out on it for multiple outside reasons.
-Andrew Wong
Re: Brakes 101 (and 102)
Nope, you just swap the calipers. Right caliper to left side, and vice versa, then the bleed screw is back on top. The only thing you want to watch out for is pad wear taper since the big piston will now be the leading piston instead of the small piston.
With the NSX calipers you do not need to swap sides.
98-0034 (sold)
00-XXXX (sold)
practice chaos to develop control.
00-XXXX (sold)
practice chaos to develop control.
Re: Brakes 101 (and 102)
There are more pics of the car in my rebuild thread. I could have went with smaller profile tires but these are my street wheels and roads around here suck, so these are nice and comfy especially with stiff suspension. I am running the 4.9 FD with GSR 5th so no issues with gearing.
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=290
98-0034 (sold)
00-XXXX (sold)
practice chaos to develop control.
00-XXXX (sold)
practice chaos to develop control.
Re: Brakes 101 (and 102)
Checked out your thread and the sizing looks great. Thought they would look disproportionate after seeing lower profile 16" tires for so long, but they fit well. Being softer on crappy roads is a bonus too.
- coolhandluke
- Posts: 3359
- Joined: Sun Aug 13, 2017 11:26 am
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Re: Brakes 101 (and 102)
Speed Bleeders help here too. You are reminding me I should document and post up PN details for:
-OEM ITR/NSX
-Confirm PN for Legend
-Spoon Twinblook
-Confirm PN for Monoblock
-Research & confirm PN for my Alcon setup
Type-R Expo
Current: 98-1040 Stolen 12/22/21
Previous: 98-0197, 01-0187, 98-0731, 97 #00171
Current: 98-1040 Stolen 12/22/21
Previous: 98-0197, 01-0187, 98-0731, 97 #00171
Re: Brakes 101 (and 102)
looking for some help/advice.
Was at the track for a lapping day. Sessions were about 20 min. Braking was good light and moderate but when bracking almost at the limit the car was darting right.
When I switched out front pads and rotors I found that the rotor had more wear at the top on the inside, bottom on the outside. Almost like the calipers were twisting. The pads seemed to be evenly worn (thickness) but smoother were the disk is not warn. (this is confusing because i would expect to see uneven thickness). Looking at the rotor, the color indicates uneven heating. Wear on both passenger and drives side are identical. The street pads/rotors are fine and I don't notice any darting, but little bit of a different driving style on the road..
set up: I have a pair of cheap rotors and Hawk DTC70 I put on for the track. Rears are just every day street pad/rotors. This was a new set of pads/rotors. Same set up as previous pad/disks but I didn't see the uneven wear with the previous, did see the dartbg though. Last winter I rebuilt all 4 brakes with new gaskets/seals. One of the pistons was corroded Couldnt get a replacement so cleaned it up best I could and reused (installed a new one yeterday). The car was darting right and this piston was also on the right. brake fluid was flushed/new. All the bolts were tights and pin slid freely
The car has over 400,,000 km and brakes are all original. The pins move freely. I can barely detect a bit of movement if I try the rotate the calipers on the pins. Wondering if combination of some wear and hight torque is doing something. I put the new pads and rotos on and drove 2 hrs to the track. I understood this should take care of bedding.
Brakes are originla stock ITR. Tires were 205/50 R15 RE71. Ground control with koni yellow, pretty close to stock ride height. Bushings are a combination of hard race and Kingpin.
in the pictures, the pad closest to the rotor was on that side of the rotor.
I'm sure there are a million possibilities but any thoughts are welcome.
Was at the track for a lapping day. Sessions were about 20 min. Braking was good light and moderate but when bracking almost at the limit the car was darting right.
When I switched out front pads and rotors I found that the rotor had more wear at the top on the inside, bottom on the outside. Almost like the calipers were twisting. The pads seemed to be evenly worn (thickness) but smoother were the disk is not warn. (this is confusing because i would expect to see uneven thickness). Looking at the rotor, the color indicates uneven heating. Wear on both passenger and drives side are identical. The street pads/rotors are fine and I don't notice any darting, but little bit of a different driving style on the road..
set up: I have a pair of cheap rotors and Hawk DTC70 I put on for the track. Rears are just every day street pad/rotors. This was a new set of pads/rotors. Same set up as previous pad/disks but I didn't see the uneven wear with the previous, did see the dartbg though. Last winter I rebuilt all 4 brakes with new gaskets/seals. One of the pistons was corroded Couldnt get a replacement so cleaned it up best I could and reused (installed a new one yeterday). The car was darting right and this piston was also on the right. brake fluid was flushed/new. All the bolts were tights and pin slid freely
The car has over 400,,000 km and brakes are all original. The pins move freely. I can barely detect a bit of movement if I try the rotate the calipers on the pins. Wondering if combination of some wear and hight torque is doing something. I put the new pads and rotos on and drove 2 hrs to the track. I understood this should take care of bedding.
Brakes are originla stock ITR. Tires were 205/50 R15 RE71. Ground control with koni yellow, pretty close to stock ride height. Bushings are a combination of hard race and Kingpin.
in the pictures, the pad closest to the rotor was on that side of the rotor.
I'm sure there are a million possibilities but any thoughts are welcome.
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- 20200912_153357.jpg (3.76 MiB) Viewed 1239 times
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- 20200912_153342.jpg (3.92 MiB) Viewed 1239 times
Re: Brakes 101 (and 102)
the way the wear pattern looks to me is that youve been hard braking coming into the same direction turn with a bad bearing.Bbb wrote: ↑Sat Sep 19, 2020 7:30 am looking for some help/advice.
Was at the track for a lapping day. Sessions were about 20 min. Braking was good light and moderate but when bracking almost at the limit the car was darting right.
When I switched out front pads and rotors I found that the rotor had more wear at the top on the inside, bottom on the outside. Almost like the calipers were twisting. The pads seemed to be evenly worn (thickness) but smoother were the disk is not warn. (this is confusing because i would expect to see uneven thickness). Looking at the rotor, the color indicates uneven heating. Wear on both passenger and drives side are identical. The street pads/rotors are fine and I don't notice any darting, but little bit of a different driving style on the road..
set up: I have a pair of cheap rotors and Hawk DTC70 I put on for the track. Rears are just every day street pad/rotors. This was a new set of pads/rotors. Same set up as previous pad/disks but I didn't see the uneven wear with the previous, did see the dartbg though. Last winter I rebuilt all 4 brakes with new gaskets/seals. One of the pistons was corroded Couldnt get a replacement so cleaned it up best I could and reused (installed a new one yeterday). The car was darting right and this piston was also on the right. brake fluid was flushed/new. All the bolts were tights and pin slid freely
The car has over 400,,000 km and brakes are all original. The pins move freely. I can barely detect a bit of movement if I try the rotate the calipers on the pins. Wondering if combination of some wear and hight torque is doing something. I put the new pads and rotos on and drove 2 hrs to the track. I understood this should take care of bedding.
Brakes are originla stock ITR. Tires were 205/50 R15 RE71. Ground control with koni yellow, pretty close to stock ride height. Bushings are a combination of hard race and Kingpin.
in the pictures, the pad closest to the rotor was on that side of the rotor.
I'm sure there are a million possibilities but any thoughts are welcome.
Re: Brakes 101 (and 102)
Ok thanks, i will have a look. the bearings were replaced last yr so they shouldn't be too bad. also the fact that I am seeing the same wear pattern on the drivers side and passenger side seem strange.
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