Dumb, Stubborn, and bound to end up penniless…….

Dave7CDMTYPER · Post by **Dave7CDMTYPER** » Tue Nov 24, 2020 1:20 pm

Thanks for the reference for the powder coating place. Good to know and close to me.

aklackner · Post by **aklackner** » Tue Nov 24, 2020 7:47 pm

Since I’ve been moving the the ITR around more lately I wanted to get the suspension tightened up. I’d left it loose until I had a chance to get it up and tightened everything under weight and near correct angles.

So today we took some of the goodies I bought a while back out and learned a Lot in the process.

Having to work out the right way to get it up safely we moved slow and didn’t try to run a full alignment but it was honestly just cool to see it up on the stands and now the suspension doesn’t sound like something is going to fall off when you move it or turn the wheels.

aklackner · Post by **aklackner** » Wed Nov 25, 2020 7:34 pm

https://vimeo.com/483849951
Started testing the radio tonight after wiring up the power for the new power antenna. It’s wired in to the same clip as the OEM mast was able to use the oem clip from the original antenna for a nice clean connection.

aklackner · Post by **aklackner** » Wed Nov 25, 2020 11:35 pm

Oh yeah and wipers went on

aw614 · Post by **aw614** » Thu Nov 26, 2020 10:49 am

Ooh, let us now how you like those hub stands. Looks like it would be perfect to tighten everything to ride height and do string alignments

aklackner · Post by **aklackner** » Thu Nov 26, 2020 12:18 pm

aw614 wrote:Ooh, let us now how you like those hub stands. Looks like it would be perfect to tighten everything to ride height and do string alignments

http://www.bbxracing.com/product_info.p ... ucts_id=69

They’re pretty fantastic for the access. Much more stable then I expected. I didn’t have any experience with them previously this was the first test run. Frankly I was really scared to start wrenching thinking it would have significant movement but it really stays put about the same as if sitting on its wheels but with much better access. I still keep a jack under the jack point where I’m working so the jack not my body would catch the car in a catastrophic failure.

Make sure you have a very high lift jack, if like me you need leveling pads too. Since my patio (like most is sloped to drains) and my garage slab isn’t level I need to create a level plane. I use a huepar 360deg. Line generator, a level, and a laser target to set the levelers to a single plane. This and the hubstands mean you have to be able to get the car up pretty high. Also the longer your springs/distance to full droop the higher you need to go. With my custom setup or an oem suspension that has spring preload, this increases how high you’ll need to lift to get the stands on. Full droop on an Integra is surprisingly tall, especially with bushings loose.

It’s a committed hobbyist solution (i.e. stupid waste of $$$) since it’s way too expensive to really be “practical” for limited individual use. It’s possible it could be a solution for someone doing small volume alignment, corner weight, race prep. It would probably shine for track side support/mobile custom alignment service.

There are also limitations to keep in mind:
The stands I have are limited to ~925lbs/corner, so capably suited to service smaller/light vehicles. Additionally the attachment plates only have a select set of stud patterns so you’d need to buy additional plates to tackle even the most common patterns. Mine will do a 2 or three variations of 5 lug only but there are many other attachment plates to fit nearly any needs. Caliper clearance can also be an issue for small rotors with large. calipers that come out past the face of the hub. Something like the Spoon caliper may need to be dismounted and moved aside to allow room for hubstands but there’s plenty of clearance for Mugen and OEM ITR calipers.

I’m pretty excited to get further along and get practice doing my own alignments and to see what the scales say once I get the car all together! After I get it all really well sorted I’ll have to invite some friends by

aklackner · Post by **aklackner** » Thu Nov 26, 2020 5:34 pm

More plastic welding today!
Many of you know well and are similarly vexed when the window sash on the door panels, that frequently are a pain to get in, get looser over time as panels crack so....

All done and like original

Before repairs

Repairs

Post by **coolhandluke** » Fri Nov 27, 2020 12:53 pm

I will have to reread this, as I didn't catch all the details. This seems clever and useful information for many owners as these cars age.

aw614 · Post by **aw614** » Fri Nov 27, 2020 9:49 pm

Great info on the hub stands,

You are right about that part of the door panel, I took my driver side off like 5 years ago to fix that rubber guide that fell off the window rail and it was a pain to get door panel on correctly and I did crack it slightly. I am afraid to take out my passenger door panel, I don't think it has ever been off and has the symptom of slow rolling up and down Honda window

Post by **coolhandluke** » Sat Nov 28, 2020 11:44 am

aw614 wrote: ↑Fri Nov 27, 2020 9:49 pm Great info on the hub stands,

You are right about that part of the door panel, I took my driver side off like 5 years ago to fix that rubber guide that fell off the window rail and it was a pain to get door panel on correctly and I did crack it slightly. I am afraid to take out my passenger door panel, I don't think it has ever been off and has the symptom of slow rolling up and down Honda window

I agree, the hub stands are slick. A goal of mine is to learn how to consistently performance alignments.

I share your concerns, I am not great about removing or reinstalling door panels. I recently acquired another set and I'm going to leverage RBoosted717 to make sure I install them correctly. I've always struggled with door panels.

Type R Club of America