Dumb, Stubborn, and bound to end up penniless…….

[coolhandluke]

Oh no!

Use blue loctite on the rotor . What is part number on the distributor you ordered?

I recommend switching to a bolt for easier torquing. Common problem back in the day that can lead to disastrous consequences. I hope nothing serious here.

[aklackner]

[DC231]

Under the car again today to check on a couple things…

the transmission is still leaking at the right axle seal. Looks like I’ll need to rent a car for the Willow Springs trip. It was worth the effort to try to make it happen in 01-386 but at least it’s a lot less to worry about now. The leak isn’t bad enough to prevent me from taking it out on some local drives and getting more comfortable with it though. Once I get the new shafts in there will be track time and I’ll have a bit more understanding of what I’m doing.

I’ve also been bugged about pretty significant rattling from the shifter. It looks like it’s the Hybrid Racing unit itself. There’s a sleeve between the shift rod and a ball bearing. This is the sleeve used to allow the rod to be adjusted up and down (relative to the pivot) to make shift movement shorter or longer. The sleeve is held in place (in the ball bearing) by a retainer ring on the sleeve below the bearing. At least on my shifter I have enough play there (maybe ~1mm) so it’s creating rattling between the sleeve and the bearing, basically bouncing up and down with vibrations.

I’ll call hybrid to see what they say but think I may end up returning to an OEM or at least fixed length shifter since the noise is an undesirable distraction. Maybe if I was running solid mounts it would be less of an issue but if I don’t get rpms matched on a shift it makes a pretty bad knocking as the motor pushes the rod around and the retainer bangs back and forth on the bearing.

Could you shorten the sleeve by the 1mm to tighten up the fitment?

[aklackner]

Could you shorten the sleeve by the 1mm to tighten up the fitment?

Talked with Hybrid seems I have an older model even though it just went in the car. They confirmed there shouldn’t be vertical play. While they don’t normally replace units as old as mine they’ve gone the extra mile in my case. Very unexpected and incredibly stand up move! Probably the best customer service I’ve experienced in a long time. I should get the new shifter Friday and will check it out.

I’ve also managed to work some things out and got clearance to take 01-386 to Willow Springs. If issues arise the school, Fastlane, will get me into one of their cars.

Now that I’m clear to take the car and test drives have been good I’m starting to do final prep.

I probably should have gone with the tried and true painters tape for paint protection but decided to try Track Armour in hopes of getting some shots. Up close it doesn’t look much better than painters but I think it will protect the paint well, seems to remove without issue but stick until I peel it, and hopefully makes for some great shots on the track.

This is a complete 3” x 100’ roll @$25

[DC231]

Could you shorten the sleeve by the 1mm to tighten up the fitment?

Talked with Hybrid seems I have an older model even though it just went in the car. They confirmed there shouldn’t be vertical play. While they don’t normally replace units as old as mine they’ve gone the extra mile in my case. Very unexpected and incredibly stand up move! Probably the best customer service I’ve experienced in a long time. I should get the new shifter Friday and will check it out.

I’ve also managed to work some things out and got clearance to take 01-386 to Willow Springs. If issues arise the school, Fastlane, will get me into one of their cars.

Now that I’m clear to take the car and test drives have been good I’m starting to do final prep.

I probably should have gone with the tried and true painters tape for paint protection but decided to try Track Armour in hopes of getting some shots. Up close it doesn’t look much better than painters but I think it will protect the paint well, seems to remove without issue but stick until I peel it, and hopefully makes for some great shots on the track.

This is a complete 3” x 100’ roll @$25

Wow sounds like they are going above and beyond by replacing an older unit for you I'm glad to hear that. Let us know what you think of the new unit.

I hope the Track Armour holds up for you!!

[aklackner]

I just went out to get gas in the ITR, first time it’s been out since I put the new rotor, distributor cap, and plug wires on (holding on to the bnib distributor as a spare for now) and it’s a whole new car! Way more power and glassy smooth acceleration when you get on the throttle at all. I’m thinking it may not have been getting a strong spark before.

I also installed a solid rear shifter bushing, to replace an old OEM one I’d reused, it has actually noticeably reduced the banging and shifter noise I was getting. The old OEM one probably allowed too much movement at this point. The front shifter bushing was a new OEM one so I plan to leave that in to minimize vibration some yet. I have a new OEM rear bushing in plastic still so it the solid bushing creates to much rattle at speed I’ll try to swap in the fresh rubber one.

[Stin1]

Nice purchase. Acura had another part number that was surprisingly affordable for the housing and igniter with coil , it didn’t include the rotor or cap. It was discontinued. I didn’t know these were available in Japan.

[oddomatik]

Nice purchase. Acura had another part number that was surprisingly affordable for the housing and igniter with coil , it didn’t include the rotor or cap. It was discontinued. I didn’t know these were available in Japan.

Doesn't appear to include igniter or coil either, but $300 for 30105-P73-004 from Japan ain't too bad. Double that for the whole assembly in OP's pic from the sources I know of.

OTOH - that would have bought me two whole junkyard motors for my CRX! If this is what growing up is, I don't want it.

[aklackner]

Nice purchase. Acura had another part number that was surprisingly affordable for the housing and igniter with coil , it didn’t include the rotor or cap. It was discontinued. I didn’t know these were available in Japan.

Doesn't appear to include igniter or coil either, but $300 for 30105-P73-004 from Japan ain't too bad. Double that for the whole assembly in OP's pic from the sources I know of.

OTOH - that would have bought me two whole junkyard motors for my CRX! If this is what growing up is, I don't want it.

Looks like a complete assembly to me, right down to the head seal. Rotor screw is in tight AF so I’m not gonna pull it. but yeah it was more than $300.

[oddomatik]

Doesn't appear to include igniter or coil either, but $300 for 30105-P73-004 from Japan ain't too bad. Double that for the whole assembly in OP's pic from the sources I know of.

Looks like a complete assembly to me, right down to the head seal. Rotor screw is in tight AF so I’m not gonna pull it. but yeah it was more than $300.

Sorry wasn't clear, was responding to @Stin1's reference of the "partial" dizzy part #.

That's a nice sexy piece of kit, might have to get me one of those. Just scavenged the igniter from my old GSR motor after trying to crank the ITR without plugs in... Oops!