2001 GS-R: Engine rebuild, other refreshments

[Dave7CDMTYPER]

I removed the rocker arm assembly today. That was very satisfying for some reason. Next thing is to remove the valves and springs. I'm waiting on a spring compressor tool I ordered. I'm really excited to do that. As far as I can tell, the head is close to being fully disassembled. Then I will be able to consider what to do next with it in terms of machine work. If appropriate for my street/reliabillity build, I'd love to get it ported, and do the angled valve job. Below are photos and a video I took today of the intake ports, for what it's worth.

Cyl head without rocker arms.jpg (2.99 MiB) Viewed 1333 times

Rocker assembly out.jpg (2.67 MiB) Viewed 1333 times

Intake port 1.jpg (2.8 MiB) Viewed 1333 times

Intake port 4.jpg (2.62 MiB) Viewed 1333 times

Intake port 3.jpg (3.21 MiB) Viewed 1333 times

Intake port 2.jpg (2.75 MiB) Viewed 1333 times

Here is a vid of the intake ports. Not sure if it tells anything about diagnosing the engine. Again, to my untrained eye, it seems pretty normal.
https://youtu.be/_gOsXdAlVQs

[aw614]

Which valve spring tool did you buy?

When I replaced my retainers my friend was using a combination of the hpt valve spring compressor and the lisle 36050 tool.

[Dave7CDMTYPER]

Which valve spring tool did you buy?

When I replaced my retainers my friend was using a combination of the hpt valve spring compressor and the lisle 36050 tool.

I do have the factory service manual so I try to find the tools listed when available. I ordered the Lisle 36050 tool, as well as this spring compressor:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07F1QCJ ... UTF8&psc=1

Edit: Thank you for the mention of the HPT spring compressor. Just ordered that as well, might come in handy.

[Dave7CDMTYPER]

I removed the valve springs and valves today! Next up is to remove the valve guides, waiting on a Honda valve guide driver tool. Assuming I need to remove them, I'm thinking I would just get new oem guides.

[Dave7CDMTYPER]

My idea is to fully disassemble the cyl head to get it ready for machine work. Otherwise I probably wouldn't need to do full disassemble. I feel like I may have the machine shop install the new valve guides, seems like it takes a lot of force to do that. Anyway, have these types of things on my mind right now about the engine.

[DC231]

My idea is to fully disassemble the cyl head to get it ready for machine work. Otherwise I probably wouldn't need to do full disassemble. I feel like I may have the machine shop install the new valve guides, seems like it takes a lot of force to do that. Anyway, have these types of things on my mind right now about the engine.

You're ready for machine work. Although, you may not need any machine work besides a valve job. The shop that does the valve job will tell you if they need to replace the guides. Most likely they won't need to. I've sent 4 cylinder heads to 4piston racing over the past few years and they've never recommended for the guides to be replaced and over the past 10+ years I've had dozens of cylinder heads rebuilt by Oscar of orange park cylinder head and he's only ever replaced broken guides from bent valves..

[Dave7CDMTYPER]

My idea is to fully disassemble the cyl head to get it ready for machine work. Otherwise I probably wouldn't need to do full disassemble. I feel like I may have the machine shop install the new valve guides, seems like it takes a lot of force to do that. Anyway, have these types of things on my mind right now about the engine.

You're ready for machine work. Although, you may not need any machine work besides a valve job. The shop that does the valve job will tell you if they need to replace the guides. Most likely they won't need to. I've sent 4 cylinder heads to 4piston racing over the past few years and they've never recommended for the guides to be replaced and over the past 10+ years I've had dozens of cylinder heads rebuilt by Oscar of orange park cylinder head and he's only ever replaced broken guides from bent valves..

Ok awesome! Things are starting to make more sense. I watched a video of a guy who removed and replaced valve guides, that was some seriously impressive machine work (imo). If there's no benefit then I won't get it done, but new bronze valve guides would be pretty niiice.

I've been doing some online research lately. I get ocd and just read stuff and watch videos. Last night I learned about how valve springs have different ratings for lbs of pressure and mm for movement or w/e. And cams have the mm rating too, so that's how cams and springs can be matched properly (among other things I don't know yet). And I'm having a challenging time deciding what valve train components I will use. I will at least do ITR springs. I think all b series have the same valves. I'd love to make the engine a little more sporty, but then it seems like aftermarket valve train isn't really designed for higher mileage. And plus I have to consider tuning, carb, etc.

[DC231]

Ok awesome! Things are starting to make more sense. I watched a video of a guy who removed and replaced valve guides, that was some seriously impressive machine work (imo). If there's no benefit then I won't get it done, but new bronze valve guides would be pretty niiice.

I've been doing some online research lately. I get ocd and just read stuff and watch videos. Last night I learned about how valve springs have different ratings for lbs of pressure and mm for movement or w/e. And cams have the mm rating too, so that's how cams and springs can be matched properly (among other things I don't know yet). And I'm having a challenging time deciding what valve train components I will use. I will at least do ITR springs. I think all b series have the same valves. I'd love to make the engine a little more sporty, but then it seems like aftermarket valve train isn't really designed for higher mileage. And plus I have to consider tuning, carb, etc.

Bronze valve guides are beneficial in turbo setups where they dissipate heat faster but they also wear out faster. That stuff is for high maintenance applications where parts are being inspected frequently not for something you want long term reliability.

I believe it's Toda who has the beehive type valve spring that's wider on the bottom and thinner at the top to allow very high lift. There are lots of options for valve spring rates.

Luke from 4piston has told me personally that he has seen Ferrea valve train last over 100k miles with the proper maintenance. I've never went that distance personally but I believe 100% it can be done with the proper maintenance.

[Dave7CDMTYPER]

Bronze valve guides are beneficial in turbo setups where they dissipate heat faster but they also wear out faster. That stuff is for high maintenance applications where parts are being inspected frequently not for something you want long term reliability.

I believe it's Toda who has the beehive type valve spring that's wider on the bottom and thinner at the top to allow very high lift. There are lots of options for valve spring rates.

Luke from 4piston has told me personally that he has seen Ferrea valve train last over 100k miles with the proper maintenance. I've never went that distance personally but I believe 100% it can be done with the proper maintenance.

Ok good to know about bronze valve guides, I don't think I want them if they wear faster.

I'd love to install some Toda valve springs. I have a set on my shelf.

Or doing a complete Ferrea valvetrain sounds epic too!

This car is not my daily. But I will use it in the future sometimes for daily type of driving, and hope to take to the track too. So this engine doesn't need to be built only for long-term reliability, I can have some fun with it too.

By the way, thanks for the mention of 4piston and those other places. I want to decide a machine shop for the head soon.

[Dave7CDMTYPER]

I think I'm going to go with 4Piston for cylinder head work. Their website seems to show legit work and they seem to specialize in Honda engines. Gonna call them today and see if we can get squared away. Excited!