Tech - ITR ABS Removal Guide

[coolhandluke]

98-01' RS Parts Diagram
Diagram link on Acura Parts Express

From Acura/Honda diagram, Numbers 5, 6, 7, 8, and 11 are the only parts needed. The part numbers are:
1.) Prop Valve - 46210-S04-952 - $113 (No. 5)
2.) Front lines:
-46310-ST7-A11 - Discontinued (No. 6)
-46320-ST7-A11 - $9(No. 7)
-46321-ST7-A11 - $12 (No. 8)
-46360-ST7-A11 - $15 (No. 11)
Costs from Acura Parts Express

It is 100% plug and play. No lines are bent, no custom fittings required, etc. It does not require a new brake master cylinder or booster.

Recommended Tools:
-Flare nut 10mm wrench.
Rec: Avoid Harbor Freight. Sears sells a set for ~$25 is excellent to have and will cover all your brake and fuel line needs in the future.

Steps:
-Remove ABS components
-Install the replacement lines
-Install replacement prop valve, and bleed the brakes.

Recap:
Very simple installation. I recommend leaving the ABS wiring in place in case you decide to add ABS back in the future. Just remove the ABS fuses.


FAQ:
Q1: Does anybody know if I could use those same part numbers for a four door? I'm assuming I can but wanted to check.
A1: If the car is 98-01, yes, the part numbers above work.

Q2: I have heard that using a ABS MC and ABS brake booster with these lines will cause the brakes not to work. Is this the case? I don't want to purchase a new brake booster and brake master cylinder. Last, will the RS lines bolt up or do they require custom fittings?
A2: Incorrect. I have a 98' ITR with the 98' RS pieces mentioned above, zero issues in 50+ track events and 26k. A 00' spec car will be 100% plug and play, no bending, custom fittings, etc.

Q3: So all I need is the prop valve and the 4 lines?
A3: Yes, all you need to purchase are the items listed above.

Q4: Does this apply to 94-97 too? instead get a 94-97 prop valve?
A4: With the exception of the 97' ITR, 94-97' and 98-01' generation three integras have different braking systems. Please follow the link at the top of this page for the None-R 94-97' ABS removal guide.

[coolhandluke]

Update: Cris @ Acura Parts Express confirmed 46310-ST7-A11 - (No. 6) is discontinued. Cris went the extra mile through a nation-wide search and confirmed it is out of stock. I would search either 98' RS shells. I will see if a JDM part is available.

[R00-0271]

Update: Cris @ Acura Parts Express confirmed 46310-ST7-A11 - (No. 6) is discontinued. Cris went the extra mile through a nation-wide search and confirmed it is out of stock. I would search either 98' RS shells. I will see if a JDM part is available.

I did this on my personal car and because that (no.6) passenger side line is discontinued I ended up re using one of the abs lines just bent it very carefully until it lined up to the prop valve and caliper. JUST FYI for anyone looking to do this mod.

[jzak1]

[I am the Liquor]

I wish we could get some of the pictures from those old threads back. I’m gonna be deleting my 97’ non-R abs soon and I’ll take some pictures to help anyone out in the future. I’m gonna be using Nicopp lines so it will be a little different.

[coolhandluke]

I wish we could get some of the pictures from those old threads back. I’m gonna be deleting my 97’ non-R abs soon and I’ll take some pictures to help anyone out in the future. I’m gonna be using Nicopp lines so it will be a little different.

What pictures in particular would help? I still own the car.

[I am the Liquor]

Well after removing it myself it is pretty straightforward. But it would be nice to have all the pictures from before the photobucket takeover. I was planning on posting the pictures of doing my custom lines but it looks like ass. I don’t recommend doing custom lines or if anyone is going to do them I advise not to use NICOPP. It simply makes more sense to use RS lines.

[coolhandluke]

Well after removing it myself it is pretty straightforward. But it would be nice to have all the pictures from before the photobucket takeover. I was planning on posting the pictures of doing my custom lines but it looks like ass. I don’t recommend doing custom lines or if anyone is going to do them I advise not to use NICOPP. It simply makes more sense to use RS lines.

My car sits in storage, but I will be performing work in the coming weeks. I can either retake photos or upload images from photobucket to the forums via the TapaTalk app.

[RTW DC2R]

I'll be removing my ABS in the next few days and will take some pics so we have some.

So I'm guessing we just tie up any of the ABS connectors on the harness or are they able to be removed as well? I'm assuming just tape them up.

And the ABS sensors can also be removed correct?

[coolhandluke]

I'll be removing my ABS in the next few days and will take some pics so we have some.

So I'm guessing we just tie up any of the ABS connectors on the harness or are they able to be removed as well? I'm assuming just tape them up.

And the ABS sensors can also be removed correct?

Up to you. I opted to completely remove everything. However, I would highlight this increases the burden if one ever wants to reinstall ABS. When I installed a new chassis harness I opted to leave everything for consistency and I just have the plugs tied up.

Total bits:
*Usually tagged with orange connectors
-ABS brake lines
-ABS brain
-ABS ECU
-ABS wiring inside the car
-ABS fuses
-ABS sensors at each wheel
-ABS wiring outside the car

Without removing everything, there will be an ABS light on the cluster. Alternatively, you can remove the ABS bulb from the cluster.