Feel free to discuss anything about the late 80s to early 00s Hondas and Acuras!
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coolhandluke
- Posts: 3359
- Joined: Sun Aug 13, 2017 11:26 am
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- Badge Number: 98-1040
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by coolhandluke » Wed Dec 13, 2017 11:16 am
noahf wrote: ↑Wed Nov 29, 2017 4:27 pm
...Who do I give the vin to? coolhandluke?
Also, AAA just mailed me and told me they will not insure this car. Kind of odd considering they insured my 2k civic (also salvage) but also I have a few cars on there so not sure why/what is special about this car. going to have to find different insurance.
PM Doespike (Joe) your VIN. Dependent on records, he may be able to locate the badge number.
Have you considered Grundy or Hagerty for a declared value?
Type-R Expo
Current: 98-1040 Stolen 12/22/21
Previous: 98-0197, 01-0187, 98-0731, 97 #00171
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noahf
- Posts: 191
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by noahf » Wed Dec 13, 2017 2:19 pm
Thanks luke. I sent Joe a pm.
Hagerty didnt work out because I put I want to drive it more than allowed, maybe after a year of trying to drive it. And I was unaware of Grundy, ill check it out.
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coolhandluke
- Posts: 3359
- Joined: Sun Aug 13, 2017 11:26 am
- Location: US
- Badge Number: 98-1040
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Contact:
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by coolhandluke » Tue Dec 19, 2017 2:18 pm
noahf wrote: ↑Wed Dec 13, 2017 2:19 pm
Thanks luke. I sent Joe a pm.
Hagerty didnt work out because I put I want to drive it more than allowed, maybe after a year of trying to drive it. And I was unaware of Grundy, ill check it out.
I'm not a fan of Hagerty's for that reason. I need to start the process of a stated value quote from Grundy as well.
Type-R Expo
Current: 98-1040 Stolen 12/22/21
Previous: 98-0197, 01-0187, 98-0731, 97 #00171
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noahf
- Posts: 191
- Joined: Wed Oct 11, 2017 4:56 pm
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by noahf » Wed Jan 03, 2018 8:55 pm
Finally made it to the dyno.
First, I installed a CSF Kswap radiator and took out the dc5 rad i was using. Though its setup for 1 fan instead of the 2 I had, I think it should run quite a bit cooler with a thick aluminum rad, and it fits way better. The dc5 upper outlet is in direct conflict with my throttle body (k20z3 with k20a2 TB + adapter).
Headed over to KV Tuned to get my AEM v2 ecu fully tuned and to finally get the k20z3 to run right. Ended up with 205hp/154tq. He said that the HP is normal for stocked z3's and that the tq is 5-10ft/lb more than average.
It really rips around now. Having the suspension tuned and the engine tuned, this car is a blast to drive. Its already a hand full. First track event will be Feb 11th with HFF in socal. So now just prepping for that.
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coolhandluke
- Posts: 3359
- Joined: Sun Aug 13, 2017 11:26 am
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- Badge Number: 98-1040
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by coolhandluke » Thu Jan 04, 2018 12:30 pm
This sounds like a blast to drive. Good stuff, thank you for sharing.
Type-R Expo
Current: 98-1040 Stolen 12/22/21
Previous: 98-0197, 01-0187, 98-0731, 97 #00171
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noahf
- Posts: 191
- Joined: Wed Oct 11, 2017 4:56 pm
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by noahf » Wed Jan 17, 2018 4:18 pm
thanks luke. im hoping to get some good shakedowns in before my first track day in Feb. I ripped an axle boot (noticed when i got to the dyno) so I took the axle out Sunday and shipped it back to insane shafts. And then I test fit one of my other sets of rims. They seem so much smaller than 16" sw388's
Ive always wanted these rims on a white car and think they may be my daily setup.
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Sort of Fast
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Mon Aug 14, 2017 3:40 pm
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by Sort of Fast » Tue Feb 06, 2018 2:26 pm
noahf wrote: ↑Mon Dec 11, 2017 6:35 pm
Had alignment done Dec 3rd at Chewerks. I really like how my hytech exhaust looks, to bad it will never be seen. The only thing I dont have is a front camber kit which I need (the reason the front camber is off a bit.) Car drives good, just waiting on an appointment to get a dynotune. The k20z3 basemap im running runs rather poorly. Hope to have a bunch of updates at the end of the month.
I'm actually kind of surprised to see the weight. You must have a lot of factory shit on the car still. I assume a full interior car w/ everything like audio. Surprising to see the difference when you compare a more stripped out car. Here's mine, however, it has gained about 50lbs with adding rear seats and a carpet.
My goal is to actually get it down to 2200lbs with a full interior w/cd player and heater. Wheels already swapped to lighter 15s, and will probably get carbon hood/hatch eventually. The stock cast iron header is still on there, so I really need to get that swapped too. That thing is HEAVY.
ITR Cult Following: A group of people that has a set of beliefs in which the ITR is viewed as being the bestest FWD ever made, everyone else is wrong.
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Dave7CDMTYPER
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- Badge Number: 01-1322
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by Dave7CDMTYPER » Tue Feb 06, 2018 3:39 pm
^If you also still have the oem exhaust you could save a lot of weight there also.
ITR CDM 01-1322
2001 GS-R
I have badge #00-1259 in hand.
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noahf
- Posts: 191
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by noahf » Tue Feb 06, 2018 4:03 pm
I do believe the 2529 was with my 210 pounds of pure fat sexyness sitting in the drivers seat. So it would be closer to 2320 without a driver, which is then a lot closer to your 2247. I also had 3/4 of a tank (as recommended by Chewerks) not sure what your gas reading was, but could easily account for 50ish lbs. I would say my interior is "stock" and only missing a radio at this point.
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