Tech - ITR ABS Removal Guide

[aklackner]

Just looking to learn something about ABS removal since I’ve never really understood it’s relative popularity. Admittedly I don’t race and know little about racing. My current ambitions stop at about hpde days.

Are that many people racing in a class that doesn’t allow ABS? I thought this applied mainly to pro level wheel to wheel stuff.

I get that for a drag car that it makes sense to loose the weight but for an ITR that doesn’t seem like that would translate.

The only other reason I’m aware of for removal is if a non-abs compatible BBK was installed but again on an ITR seems like there are sufficient BBKs that support ABS on a car that likely already has sufficient braking for a track day car. Most common kits as I understand them are more about controlling temps for consistency and/or decreased weight than about increasing braking force.

Again just looking to understand this better.

[RTW DC2R]

For me, I can't stand the way ABS feels when it's engaged. I hate the pedal feedback, especially when on track. My current R has bad ABS sensors anyway so I've already removed the bulb and now that the motor is out I will remove the ABS system entirely.

[coolhandluke]

Q: Why remove ABS?
A: I removed for overall improved pedal feel/modulation.
*I do not race W2W, only HPDE’s.

Show car types remove for Bay looks, etc.

[I am the Liquor]

I'll be removing my ABS in the next few days and will take some pics so we have some.

So I'm guessing we just tie up any of the ABS connectors on the harness or are they able to be removed as well? I'm assuming just tape them up.

And the ABS sensors can also be removed correct?

I also removed all the wires and plugs but ended up stopping when things started going underneath the dash. I got everything that was ran through the firewall though. Anyone doing this should confirm EG chassis (non-ABS) front brake lines will work. I ended up re-bending the master cyclinder line to the prop valve instead of making a new one. It’s also worth thinking about re-sale value for R owners, I’m not sure if the value would be affected much if it’s not unicorn status.

[I am the Liquor]

I removed my ABS simply because it didn’t work and the previous owner removed all the speed sensors. I can’t say much about pedal feel if it changes it at all since I did stainless lines at the same time. I guess some of us do it for varying reasons even if they can be frivolous.

[coolhandluke]

....I’m not sure if the value would be affected much if it’s not unicorn status.

My ownership started from a shell. No unicorn status here.

...EG chassis (non-ABS) front brake lines will work. I ended up re-bending the master cyclinder line to the prop valve instead of making a new one...

I'm curious how EG lines fit. I assume these lines are likely to be discontinued as well. I wonder if the master cylinder and body differences would require more modifications than a DC2/4 alternative.

[3pedalJohn]

I removed my ABS from my 96 GS-R, it wasn't to bad. I saved a portion of the old lines so that I could use them as a template to bend up the new lines. I did spend a bit of money on flaring tool, bender, cutter and deburring tool. But now I can make hard lines for other things. I used a 4040 prop valve.

I believe the later and smaller 98-01 ABS modules are much better relative to the bulky 94-97 abs units. The later ones had 4 channels and the earlier ones had 3 channels. The 4 channel are better, each brake has it's own channel. From my understanding the ITR ABS brain uses a different calibration. One of my buddies has an ITR with ABS and swears by the ITR brain module. He says it works like the hand of god in the wet.

[aw614]

I removed my ABS from my 96 GS-R, it wasn't to bad. I saved a portion of the old lines so that I could use them as a template to bend up the new lines. I did spend a bit of money on flaring tool, bender, cutter and deburring tool. But now I can make hard lines for other things. I used a 4040 prop valve.

I believe the later and smaller 98-01 ABS modules are much better relative to the bulky 94-97 abs units. The later ones had 4 channels and the earlier ones had 3 channels. The 4 channel are better, each brake has it's own channel. From my understanding the ITR ABS brain uses a different calibration. One of my buddies has an ITR with ABS and swears by the ITR brain module. He says it works like the hand of god in the wet.

The 98-01 ABS units seem more reliable too. they don't seem to leak out fluid from the engine bay unit...

I put the ITR IBS on my non ITR, there was a prop valve in the engine bay and the ECU that swapped right over. I retained my current wheel sensors. It seems to work well, but I really didnt start getting faster until after I had already installed the parts.

[DC231]

if you use the 4040 prop valve from a 90-93 integra or a 92-95 civic with rear disk brakes(also 4040) then all the civic lines will work and even clip into the brake line stays. the only thing is the prop valve bracket only lines up with one stud from the firewall not both so you can only use 1 bolt to secure the prop valve..