Suspension tuning - dampers, spring rates, etc.
Re: Suspension tuning - dampers, spring rates, etc.
Many, many thanks for taking the time to help me learn. I understand very little in this area so can't resist if that makes sense. I need to spend time driving it before I should attempt to stray too far from conventional designs. Unfortunately starting that has to wait until I have my car together.
The force of the sway bar on the inside is a great point that I've entirely overlooked, and it confuses me a lot.
I could see a scenario where the inside rear wheel would get lifted due to insufficient suspension travel, when the roll bar is preventing extension, especially in a faster transition where damper rebound would add resistance to changes. But I get lost instantly trying to think about this.
I figured this was all a very long shot and if it made sense would be more commonly seen. I guess I have the parts so there's little harm in testing a bit once things are further along with the project.
Thanks again for the help and sharing your experience!
The force of the sway bar on the inside is a great point that I've entirely overlooked, and it confuses me a lot.
I could see a scenario where the inside rear wheel would get lifted due to insufficient suspension travel, when the roll bar is preventing extension, especially in a faster transition where damper rebound would add resistance to changes. But I get lost instantly trying to think about this.
I figured this was all a very long shot and if it made sense would be more commonly seen. I guess I have the parts so there's little harm in testing a bit once things are further along with the project.
Thanks again for the help and sharing your experience!
Re: Suspension tuning - dampers, spring rates, etc.
100% happy to help you think/talk through setup stuff. It’s always a fun and good discussion.aklackner wrote: ↑Mon Aug 06, 2018 1:15 pm Many, many thanks for taking the time to help me learn. I understand very little in this area so can't resist if that makes sense. I need to spend time driving it before I should attempt to stray too far from conventional designs. Unfortunately starting that has to wait until I have my car together.
The force of the sway bar on the inside is a great point that I've entirely overlooked, and it confuses me a lot.
I could see a scenario where the inside rear wheel would get lifted due to insufficient suspension travel, when the roll bar is preventing extension, especially in a faster transition where damper rebound would add resistance to changes. But I get lost instantly trying to think about this.
I figured this was all a very long shot and if it made sense would be more commonly seen. I guess I have the parts so there's little harm in testing a bit once things are further along with the project.
Thanks again for the help and sharing your experience!
Yep, gotta remember that, as the the outside corner compresses, the rear bar will act almost like a stick axle and push the inside up also (or limit droop travel). Nearly any bar is going to have a decent amount of “upward” or compression force on the inside, rear. As the bar gets stiffer, the inside rear droop is less and less.
Another good thing to remember is that, when the car is loaded up in a corner, there’s a buncha load that travels on the diagonal between the inside rear and outside front. If you lift, it’s the outside front that gets most of the load. Hit the throttle and it moves from the inside front to the outside rear.
Maybe the last thing to leave you with right now is the mull over static vs dynamic camber. With a car as softly sprung as your setup, there’s going to be considerable roll... enough that I’ll wager the outside rear tire will be at zero camber or even positive camber. This means the car may be loose in a steady state corner because the outside rear tire is decambered... not because of the rear bar size. All of this means that it could actually be a case where a bigger bar tightens the car up a little in steady state stuff but makes it looser on transitions or drop-throttle situations.
As far as the setup plans, give them a try! Only way you’ll know is to test it out and form your own opinions.
Christian - Closet Honda fanboi in FL
Re: Suspension tuning - dampers, spring rates, etc.
Have a strange question, my only reasonable explanation for this is bushing wear and rear cargo load, but seeing if there are other opinions on this. I dialed out camber on one side (passenger side) about a year and a half ago via one washer on both bolts to make my car have -1/-1 in the rear. About a few months ago and also few weeks ago, I've gotten two alignments and I find my camber back at -1/-1.5 which is where I had it a year ago before the washers were installed on the passenger side.
Is there a reason why it would shift back to the original position? Should I just go ahead and get another washer added to that side again on my next alignment? I really don't feel the difference in the rear, but it is weird that it would change back to -1.5 degrees where I was previously with no washers.
Most here would prefer OEM upper control arms over aftermarket unless you are going spherical? In my instance, I prefer to keep the car streetable and my OEM upper arms have less than 10k miles on them.
In other weirdness, after getting my new steering rack installed, my friend who did the install did have to loosen the subframe to get it back in. My caster being off slightly is now finally even again +1 degrees
Is there a reason why it would shift back to the original position? Should I just go ahead and get another washer added to that side again on my next alignment? I really don't feel the difference in the rear, but it is weird that it would change back to -1.5 degrees where I was previously with no washers.
Most here would prefer OEM upper control arms over aftermarket unless you are going spherical? In my instance, I prefer to keep the car streetable and my OEM upper arms have less than 10k miles on them.
In other weirdness, after getting my new steering rack installed, my friend who did the install did have to loosen the subframe to get it back in. My caster being off slightly is now finally even again +1 degrees
-Andrew Wong
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Re: Suspension tuning - dampers, spring rates, etc.
Alignment affects camber slightly, so that would attribute to a camber decrease/gain assuming your camber arm is fixed. Height also plays a role if suspension dropped a bit. . I wouldn't worry about a .5 degree variance anyways. I usually expect things to be out of spec after a harsh track day, but all my arms are adjustable. Your bushings may just be old too unless your car has had a refresh. To answer your UCA question, the only real benefit to aftermarket is easily replaceable ball joints and further camber adjustment. The spherical bit is completely optional as it's not actually part of the UCA, but what the UCA attaches to. https://jhpusa.com/products/asr-spheric ... 01-integra . I just run poly bushings as these don't seem to wear very fast.aw614 wrote: ↑Tue Aug 07, 2018 7:27 am Have a strange question, my only reasonable explanation for this is bushing wear and rear cargo load, but seeing if there are other opinions on this. I dialed out camber on one side (passenger side) about a year and a half ago via one washer on both bolts to make my car have -1/-1 in the rear. About a few months ago and also few weeks ago, I've gotten two alignments and I find my camber back at -1/-1.5 which is where I had it a year ago before the washers were installed on the passenger side.
Is there a reason why it would shift back to the original position? Should I just go ahead and get another washer added to that side again on my next alignment? I really don't feel the difference in the rear, but it is weird that it would change back to -1.5 degrees where I was previously with no washers.
Most here would prefer OEM upper control arms over aftermarket unless you are going spherical? In my instance, I prefer to keep the car streetable and my OEM upper arms have less than 10k miles on them.
In other weirdness, after getting my new steering rack installed, my friend who did the install did have to loosen the subframe to get it back in. My caster being off slightly is now finally even again +1 degrees
ITR Cult Following: A group of people that has a set of beliefs in which the ITR is viewed as being the bestest FWD ever made, everyone else is wrong.
Re: Suspension tuning - dampers, spring rates, etc.
Oops I should have mentioned rear upper control arms for camber adjustment. But my bushings are 4 years old and about 10-15k of hard miles.
I am still using Xian's original skunk2 arms from his black itr on my integra and they haven't slipped and still feel tight.
I am still using Xian's original skunk2 arms from his black itr on my integra and they haven't slipped and still feel tight.
-Andrew Wong
Re: Suspension tuning - dampers, spring rates, etc.
Figured I’d toss another, more recent, data point out there... the OG Koni+Ground Control combo is still pretty dang good on track. It’s not an R (caged EF) but did a fair bit of time at Road Atlanta for GL South in my old EF Sedan... it’s on Koni Race (shortened and revalved Yellows) with GC sleeves (700/1000). These shocks are still remarkably good for track use. I know they’re not quite as sophisticated as the current crop of monotubes but they’re really damn good for what they are. It’s been a long time since I’ve street driven them so I can’t comment on that aspect but, around the track, they did an awesome job soaking up the curbs.
Christian - Closet Honda fanboi in FL
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Re: Suspension tuning - dampers, spring rates, etc.
What are you running for the front? My R is on stock suspension, but I want to start looking into adjustability. Rather not go with Skunk2. Expo supporters FTW!coolhandluke wrote: ↑Mon Dec 18, 2017 1:12 pm What are the better camber kits these days? Specifically, I'm looking for engineered products, not cheap knock-offs like Blox/Buddy Club/Skunk2/etc. I'm researching rear UCA's and leaning towards King Motorsports, but they are spherical bushings. I drive my car on both the street and track, so rubber bushings are preferred for long-term durability and ride comfort.
Re: Suspension tuning - dampers, spring rates, etc.
Im still on christian's adjustable front skunk2 LCAs that I bought from the person who bought his old black R, I haven't had problems with then with the hard miles I put on. Debating to keep them or swap them out if I do go coilovers and run natural camber from being lowered, although I like my driver side ride height with the bilsteins and ITR springs, (passenger side sits higher lol)
-Andrew Wong
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Re: Suspension tuning - dampers, spring rates, etc.
I have Skunk2 sitting in a box (for years now.) I agree, I'm not a fan for multiple reasons, the largest being them taking down the Expo/NWP forums.g3teg97 wrote: ↑Sun Sep 23, 2018 11:34 amWhat are you running for the front? My R is on stock suspension, but I want to start looking into adjustability. Rather not go with Skunk2. Expo supporters FTW!coolhandluke wrote: ↑Mon Dec 18, 2017 1:12 pm What are the better camber kits these days? Specifically, I'm looking for engineered products, not cheap knock-offs like Blox/Buddy Club/Skunk2/etc. I'm researching rear UCA's and leaning towards King Motorsports, but they are spherical bushings. I drive my car on both the street and track, so rubber bushings are preferred for long-term durability and ride comfort.
I'm keeping an eye on Honed development parts. I aim to purchase their rear UCA's now that they are back in stock:
https://honeddevelopments.com/product/h ... amber-arm/
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Re: Suspension tuning - dampers, spring rates, etc.
The rear camber kit looks like it has spherical bushings?
I've stuck with the OEM rear arm using the washer trick for now, locally it seems everyone I've talked towho has used an adjustable rear camber kit has had issues with bushings going bad.
I've stuck with the OEM rear arm using the washer trick for now, locally it seems everyone I've talked towho has used an adjustable rear camber kit has had issues with bushings going bad.
-Andrew Wong
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