Restoring #97-00012

[Dc2-ProductionS]

That's crazy that you got surface rust just from moisture. Is that common in that situation without clear coat or is it an East coast thing and somehow salt blew in the door or something? Yea, I love living in socal without that rust yo.

Btw, did you ever find the seam welds?

My thought is that it was stored in an outdoor "garage"... More of a metal/tarp enclosure type of deal behind the body shop. The open faces were freshly machine/sanded clean prior to powdercoating. They were 100% bare metal without ANY kind of protection. That combined with the a New York fall that creates lots of moisture and "dew" basically every morning and evening repeatedly for over a month took a toll on the bare spots.

I keep forgetting to investigate for the seam welds. I need to leave myself a note in the garage or something!

Re-reading this thread always inspires me. Thank you for the updates.

Thanks! I have done the same a few times over the past 2 months since I havent gotten my ass in the garage!! But it's time to get back to it!

For the second time, the suspension looks great! As for the car, it looks great-er! I like seeing it like this. This process is identical to that of a model car build. It’s all coming together nicely! I’m sure you’re all types of busy with everything going on, best of luck with it all. I’ll be on standby for updates!

Hahah I never thought of it like that, but it does look like a model car build in a sense! Busy is good, but it's been killing me to not be in there working! Thank you for the well wishes, and same to you in your endeavors!

Just reread for the second time. Such a great build. Any updates?

So I have made it a point to get our asses back in the garage!! This thing isnt going to build itself!! This past week was getting the garage back to some sort of clean from the past 2 months of house work, broken dirt toys, and other misc bomb shells that have landed in there. I purchased 2 rear ITR quarter panels, and moved out some spares I have kickin around takin up room....('97 C5 and JDM B18C-R that dyno'd at 194/138 on a 100% stock setup... Thing is a freak motor for sure!)



Next up was protecting the painted parts of the car in the garage. Last thing I need is the whole thing getting scuffed up or paint damage from sitting uncovered. I got static plastic and left it double layered. Taped it to the panels and shes now protected a bit more than she was before.



Our next thing to scratch of the to-do list is the engine. I have 2 blocks that I'm going to get rebuilt. The RDOT piece will be used in the '97 with the '97 stamped head. The '98 C5 block will be rebuilt to OEM spec while pieces are still available, and packed away in a safe place. Head and blocks will be cleaned, hot tanked, and decked along with any machine work that may be needed. Both blocks looks like they will get by with just a hone, but I want a professionals opinion. Excited to have a few C5's that are 0 miles.





I have still not tackled the brake lines.... It sucks because we have 1 shot at it. I'm going to try to get some interior bits done and when I get the courage, I'll dive into the brake lines. Really not looking forward to it.

We have a little bit of cleaning left on some items before getting them clear coated and reinstalled in the caR. Still on the hunt to find an OEM suspension new. If anyone has any leads, let me know!!

Thanks for checking back in, and stay tuned for more.

[Dave7CDMTYPER]

Maybe that jdm b18c is a spoon engine?

[aklackner]

The numbers are definitely good. If the head used had been serviced those numbers are within reason. I saw 213/151 on a new pre-assembled oem usdm C5 block, JDM header & cat, oem airbox(Minus resonator), oem tb & im. The head (98 JDM) was skimmed to factory service spec (.005), had a valve job, 2ply head gasket (to get CR close to JDM 11.3). Cams were skunk2 tuner1, all tuned on s300.

[Stin1]

What do you have planned for the brake lines? Locash racing had a b16b that was assumed stock and it made more hp than my friends usdm 98 R and my jdm 98R. Those beast motors are always a head scratcher to me .

[Dc2-ProductionS]

The numbers are definitely good. If the head used had been serviced those numbers are within reason. I saw 213/151 on a new pre-assembled oem usdm C5 block, JDM header & cat, oem airbox(Minus resonator), oem tb & im. The head (98 JDM) was skimmed to factory service spec (.005), had a valve job, 2ply head gasket (to get CR close to JDM 11.3). Cams were skunk2 tuner1, all tuned on s300.

213 on mostly stock setup is damn good. That seems like just enough kick in the ass for the C5 to still be reliable for 200k miles.

What do you have planned for the brake lines? Locash racing had a b16b that was assumed stock and it made more hp than my friends usdm 98 R and my jdm 98R. Those beast motors are always a head scratcher to me .

I need to decide on a way to cut the current flare perfectly flat so I can remove the rusted fittings, put new fittings on and re-flare the ends without losing any more than 1/8"-1/4". Which is basically the length of the end of the line to the base of the current flare.

Maybe that jdm b18c is a spoon engine?

I got it from Hector at Racewars! He just ordered it from Spilner down at Harry's!... hahaha but really though, I havent seen any kind markings or stamping on the engine to assume so. I just think this motor was made on a nice sunny Wednesday.

[DC231]

i think it could have to do with the head porter.. not all the Type R heads were ported by the same person and port work has a lot to do with air velocity.. no matter how hard they could try to duplicate each port in the exact same way it would be impossible to do by humans..this could def explain why some engines make more power than others with all other things being equal.

[Stin1]

Do you have a parker, hydraulic shop, forklift repair shop, or aviation shop near you? Maybe they can help on the brake lines.

[Dave7CDMTYPER]

Why are the brake lines so challenging?

[Dc2-ProductionS]

Why are the brake lines so challenging?

Because I need to cut a length off of it to get the existing rusty fitting off, then I need to re-flare the ends without losing any more than a 1/4" so they aren't out of shape.
My cut needs to be pretty damn near perfect to be able to re-flare properly, so I'm just concerned with everything being as perfect as it can be.

[Dc2-ProductionS]

It's been a while, but I have not gone missing! I promise!

Made some progress on some of the internal components and dash pieces this past Wednesday. Unfortunately it has been a bit on the colder side at night here in NY so getting the garage warm enough to paint has been a bit of a task. We have the interior almost ready to install all the under structure stuff like brace bars, dash bars, ABS unit holders, and get all the wires and lines cleaned up and clipped into their homes and resting places.

I need to pack up all my engine stuff and just get it sent out already! If I had done it when I got it all cleaned up and separated, I would prob have it back all finished by now!!

Anyway, heres some eye candy of the dash components. Gonna get all the lines cleaned up and then get these mounted.

Stay tuned.... every once and a while LOL