Dumb, Stubborn, and bound to end up penniless…….
Re: Dumb, Stubborn, and bound to end up penniless…….
More updates please haha.
Dumb, Stubborn, and bound to end up penniless…….
Since an update was requested....
Now that 01-386 is at the body shop and I have a solid plan for the underbody hardlines, I've started working on mapping out electrical to support a few items I'll be adding. I'm still working on documenting with diagrams but the plan is something like:
Oil temp sensor
Oil Pressure sensor
PLX Wideband sensor + controller (digital and Analog wideband to s300\analog narrowband to oem ecu)
RaceCapture Data acquisition system (CAN from s300\OBDII from OEM ecu, analog sensors, GPS Ant.)
Ecliptech ShiftP2+ (programmable shift light\warning light system)
Water\Meth inj. (Pump, solenoid, low level sensor, control signal)
Alpine PWE-S8 Subwoofer
OEM Siren (will need to make a harness since options harness is no longer avail.)
OEM Alarm (making my own door harness since kit I picked up only had main unit, attachment harness w/ relays, and mount) Diagram ->https://i.imgur.com/MoHdyExh.jpg
To keep things clean with all the additional wiring I'm putting a Blue Sea 5/16" pass through post, that will connect 4AWG power feed run back to the hatch (+ sub and meth. inj. pump), and an 18 position Deutsch HD connector, for everything else https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-HDP24-24-18SE.html on the firewall.
Since I'm running the LiFePO4 battery I have options for terminal connections. It's an M6 screw down terminal that comes with standard terminals attached. I also picked up m6 to 3/8" studs from Pegasus for a heavier duty option. But I'm thinking just using M6 might be the easiest since I already have m6 lugs in the equiv. of 4awg to 10awg, where its hard to find smaller dia. lugs that fit 3/8". I probably won't need to support smaller diameters at the battery though since I'm feeding a 4AWG to a 50 amp breaker so i can use the supply post on the breaker for distribution to smaller gauge if needed and it will also help keep battery connections a bit cleaner. Anyway everything will get boots and shrink tube, even the LiFePO4 battery will go in the OEM battery box with a custom cover for a clean\OEMish look. Connectors down stream will generally be Deutsch DT or MDT, where <20AWG is used.
Under the dash I'll bring an 10AWG constant power in to a small distribution post and to a relay for switched power for accessories.
A dedicated ground will also come in from the T-Stat housing for the wideband controller and RaceCapture to align with ECU signalling.
I think I should have most of the connectors, pins, sockets, seals, boots by early next week. I still need to find smaller 12-20 gauge wiring I like or I may gut wiring from the LS and spare 98 floor and cabin harnesses I bought so I can color code similar to OEM.
If anyone is doing the Mil-spec thing or otherwise adding one of the Deutsch size 24 bulkhead connectors, I bit the bullet and bought the D-Hole Punch and a cheap hydraulic crimper that will handle solid crimp on ends 2/0 to ~12 AWG. I'll share my experience with them and once I'm done if anyone needs to borrow the hole punch PM me.
Now that 01-386 is at the body shop and I have a solid plan for the underbody hardlines, I've started working on mapping out electrical to support a few items I'll be adding. I'm still working on documenting with diagrams but the plan is something like:
Oil temp sensor
Oil Pressure sensor
PLX Wideband sensor + controller (digital and Analog wideband to s300\analog narrowband to oem ecu)
RaceCapture Data acquisition system (CAN from s300\OBDII from OEM ecu, analog sensors, GPS Ant.)
Ecliptech ShiftP2+ (programmable shift light\warning light system)
Water\Meth inj. (Pump, solenoid, low level sensor, control signal)
Alpine PWE-S8 Subwoofer
OEM Siren (will need to make a harness since options harness is no longer avail.)
OEM Alarm (making my own door harness since kit I picked up only had main unit, attachment harness w/ relays, and mount) Diagram ->https://i.imgur.com/MoHdyExh.jpg
To keep things clean with all the additional wiring I'm putting a Blue Sea 5/16" pass through post, that will connect 4AWG power feed run back to the hatch (+ sub and meth. inj. pump), and an 18 position Deutsch HD connector, for everything else https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-HDP24-24-18SE.html on the firewall.
Since I'm running the LiFePO4 battery I have options for terminal connections. It's an M6 screw down terminal that comes with standard terminals attached. I also picked up m6 to 3/8" studs from Pegasus for a heavier duty option. But I'm thinking just using M6 might be the easiest since I already have m6 lugs in the equiv. of 4awg to 10awg, where its hard to find smaller dia. lugs that fit 3/8". I probably won't need to support smaller diameters at the battery though since I'm feeding a 4AWG to a 50 amp breaker so i can use the supply post on the breaker for distribution to smaller gauge if needed and it will also help keep battery connections a bit cleaner. Anyway everything will get boots and shrink tube, even the LiFePO4 battery will go in the OEM battery box with a custom cover for a clean\OEMish look. Connectors down stream will generally be Deutsch DT or MDT, where <20AWG is used.
Under the dash I'll bring an 10AWG constant power in to a small distribution post and to a relay for switched power for accessories.
A dedicated ground will also come in from the T-Stat housing for the wideband controller and RaceCapture to align with ECU signalling.
I think I should have most of the connectors, pins, sockets, seals, boots by early next week. I still need to find smaller 12-20 gauge wiring I like or I may gut wiring from the LS and spare 98 floor and cabin harnesses I bought so I can color code similar to OEM.
If anyone is doing the Mil-spec thing or otherwise adding one of the Deutsch size 24 bulkhead connectors, I bit the bullet and bought the D-Hole Punch and a cheap hydraulic crimper that will handle solid crimp on ends 2/0 to ~12 AWG. I'll share my experience with them and once I'm done if anyone needs to borrow the hole punch PM me.
Last edited by aklackner on Tue Feb 05, 2019 2:08 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Dumb, Stubborn, and bound to end up penniless…….
So I dropped the hard lines with Orme bros.
Looks like it will be ~$225 each for the R\L brake, fuel supply\return.
They can't make the (large) fuel vent line, but since I'd bought the SI vent line (I took it down just in case
). It's nearly identical and it looks like they can modify that to align properly.
I'll get the final bill when the lines are done in a couple weeks but looks like my guesstimate was probably right on.
Looks like it will be ~$225 each for the R\L brake, fuel supply\return.
They can't make the (large) fuel vent line, but since I'd bought the SI vent line (I took it down just in case
). It's nearly identical and it looks like they can modify that to align properly. I'll get the final bill when the lines are done in a couple weeks but looks like my guesstimate was probably right on.
Last edited by aklackner on Tue Feb 05, 2019 3:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Dumb, Stubborn, and bound to end up penniless…….
or something like that.
Last edited by aklackner on Wed Feb 06, 2019 9:40 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Dumb, Stubborn, and bound to end up penniless…….
lmk if you need to borrow the dmc crimpers for the milspec connectors.
Re: Dumb, Stubborn, and bound to end up penniless…….
Thanks. I may end up taking you up on that!noahf wrote:lmk if you need to borrow the dmc crimpers for the milspec connectors.
I have a crimper and dies for the stamped pins so tried to go with those where supported and “should” be able to cover the size 8 with the hydraulic crimper but I won’t know how well it will work until I get some done.
I’ll still have to figure out what all will be needed for smaller connectors but the diagram will help me organize all that.
Re: Dumb, Stubborn, and bound to end up penniless…….
So trying to stay sane while the shell is at the body shop.
This should be pretty complete now. I've also made a separate sheet detailing each interconnection (somewhere about 120) but it should help map out wire lengths, colors, and gauges. It has already really helped clarify amperage loads to define connection specs, required pinning, and gauging. It also helps to get all this out of my head so when I forget it I don't have to regenerate a new plan.
This should be pretty complete now. I've also made a separate sheet detailing each interconnection (somewhere about 120) but it should help map out wire lengths, colors, and gauges. It has already really helped clarify amperage loads to define connection specs, required pinning, and gauging. It also helps to get all this out of my head so when I forget it I don't have to regenerate a new plan.
Re: Dumb, Stubborn, and bound to end up penniless…….
Getting ready to start stripping down the LS project so when the ITR comes back I can get it right into the garage and start assembly.
The main issue is that once the suspension (custom JDM ITR) is off the LS I’d need a way to move it out of the garage. And generally around.
I didn’t want to go through welding another body cart so this time I went the easy route with 4x4 bolted to HF (1000lbs) furniture dollies. I cut shallow channels for the pinch welds to drop into to keep them in place. So far only got the front done. Had to pull the mud flaps but looks like it will work well.
The main issue is that once the suspension (custom JDM ITR) is off the LS I’d need a way to move it out of the garage. And generally around.
I didn’t want to go through welding another body cart so this time I went the easy route with 4x4 bolted to HF (1000lbs) furniture dollies. I cut shallow channels for the pinch welds to drop into to keep them in place. So far only got the front done. Had to pull the mud flaps but looks like it will work well.
Re: Dumb, Stubborn, and bound to end up penniless…….
Another little project I’ve been playing with should be a nice little bit for the ITR:
Re: Dumb, Stubborn, and bound to end up penniless…….
While my shell is still out at the body shop I’m finding other projects to keep me busy
Since garage space is always tight I installed a tire/wheel storage rack over the garage door to get my spare wheels up and free up some space. Went in very well and seems very sturdy. Just shy of enough room for 6 wheels on it.
Since garage space is always tight I installed a tire/wheel storage rack over the garage door to get my spare wheels up and free up some space. Went in very well and seems very sturdy. Just shy of enough room for 6 wheels on it.
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