Dumb, Stubborn, and bound to end up penniless…….

[aklackner]

I didn’t want to go through welding another body cart so this time I went the easy route with 4x4 bolted to HF (1000lbs) furniture dollies. I cut shallow channels for the pinch welds to drop into to keep them in place. So far only got the front done. Had to pull the mud flaps but looks like it will work well.

So the HF dollies didn't work out after all. They held the static weight fine when but trying to move it anywhere it took so much force for the wheels to actually spin, even with just the front on the dollies, that a)it was ridiculously hard to move even on flat ground and b)it would start to overload the dolly's already maxed out framing.

So new plan:
I'll drain fluids before the ITR comes home but try to hold off disassembling the LS until the ITR is back in the garage (sounds like at least a month yet. So far only the doors are sanded down.) .

I think I'll pick up a garage mat to cover the pavers right in front of the garage then put the LS up on my spare jack stands to transfer stuff over. Once I have at least the glass, new hardlines, rack (looped), and suspension on the ITR I'll take it off the body cart and put the LS on that after I pull the motor, Then I should be able to move both shells around.

For now with the LS in the garage maybe just use it to start mapping out and making the braided lines for the Water\Meth injection setup.

[Stin1]

Another little project I’ve been playing with should be a nice little bit for the ITR:

What are you doing with the fog switch?

[aklackner]

Turning a momentary switch into a latching switch for use with the JDM (yellow sir-g) fogs and oem harness. See photo below
Shot the of the switch was just from testing in the old LS.

I always hated the usdm fog light switch on the arm rest and since the ITR doesn’t have cruise control JDM switch is perfect but I didn’t want to pay $70+ to try to get a latching JDM switch so I bought a momentary one for $15 and made it a latching one. So now all OEM fog setup and no more arm rest switch.

[Stin1]

Pardon my ignorance here, but I am confused. The jdm switch needs to be held down to function?

[aklackner]

Some cars/years relied on a separate latching relay, so the switch was momentary basically only pulsed.

Some used a latching button which stays connected until released (like usdm cruise control).

Both are visually identical but seems like the odds are if the switch is for sale for less than $50 it’s the momentary version since they aren’t directly usable as a normal switch.

The momentary switches also lack the protection circuitry from downstream relays and to ensure the relay is snapped open immediately. Without this the relays can cause large voltage spikes and damage other electronics on the same circuit (like nearly every bulb in your car that turns on with the headlights). Relays with single diodes will provide protection but will slow relay response time. The OEM latching switches use a standard diode in series (back to back)with a zener diode to protect and quickly discharge the circuit for fast relay response.

[aklackner]

Learned some lessons on AN wrenches that might be worth sharing.

Seems Earl’s fittings have 2 sizes on each fitting a nut (standard AN) and socket (standard AN +1/16”) so some double end wrench sets have one of each.

This Speedway set looked like an awesome solution for hose building, each wrench has two sizes (I.e. -6 open and -4 closed, -6 closed and -8 open) so appears to have 2 wrenches with each size. However it turns out the open end is sized to fit the oversized Earl’s socket size so is basically useless since even Earl’s non-hose side fitting is the standard AN size (not the oversized socket size). This means the only way to tighten a fitting would be to leave the wrench attached to the hose. :Faceslap

[aklackner]

Some progress (of course it starts to rain when I stopped by)







Unfortunately they’ve found a good deal of body filler but they‘re getting it all cleaned out and repaired.

Sounds like ~3 more weeks depending what rain does.

[shuttlepilot]

Learned some lessons on AN wrenches that might be worth sharing.

Seems Earl’s fittings have 2 sizes on each fitting a nut (standard AN) and socket (standard AN +1/16”) so some double end wrench sets have one of each.

This Speedway set looked like an awesome solution for hose building, each wrench has two sizes (I.e. -6 open and -4 closed, -6 closed and -8 open) so appears to have 2 wrenches with each size. However it turns out the open end is sized to fit the oversized Earl’s socket size so is basically useless since even Earl’s non-hose side fitting is the standard AN size (not the oversized socket size). This means the only way to tighten a fitting would be to leave the wrench attached to the hose. :Faceslap

For these fittings, you might want to get yourself a Knipex plier wrenche. They grip tightly to prevent marring up fine finish parts.

https://chadstoolbox.com/86-03-300-knip ... rs-wrench/

[aklackner]

For these fittings, you might want to get yourself a Knipex plier wrenche. They grip tightly to prevent marring up fine finish parts.

https://chadstoolbox.com/86-03-300-knip ... rs-wrench/

Thanks I actually went with another double-end wrench right now I'm only making -4 and -6 hoses so those were the only sizes I needed. I wanted to try to stick with a fixed wrench since I can be a bit of a klutz and if I can screw something up I will.


Keyser Manufacturing AN Wrenches 100 43510-46

It's also a double wide wrench, similar to the Fragola wrenches, so pressure will be less concentrated only a only a portion of the fitting surface.

[noahf]

every person in the world should own a pair of knipex pliers! I had no idea how awesome they were until I used a friends set to do some AN work. I have a set of AN wrenches and they can vary quite a bit. So even if you dont need them just for AN stuff, they are a great addition to the tool box!