Coil on Plug vs. Distributor thoughts

[Gotin]

I am going to reference this year old thread on HT, and would like to open the discussion for this community:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor ... h-3331097/

With the high cost of an OEM replacement, using aftermarket manufacturers for parts (body, igniter, coil) is normal for distributor fixing, are there benefits for the COP? With bolt on kits like the burton-racing and AEM, hondata (that require their ecu), is it worth it? A few good arguments are being made in the link above including, the body of the distributor is still being used, an aftermarket distributor is fairly cheap, of course, why reinvent the wheel.

What is this community's take on the topic.

[aw614]

I saw my previous posts on the thread And I am still on the fence, my OEM dizzy works so I will probably be sticking with it.

Haven't there been cases with people having issues with aftermarket distributors? I bought one from jhpusa and my tach didn't work with it making me weary of trying another. But it also seems cheaper to take a b20/b18b1 dizzy and gut the internals for it if necessary since it all swaps over if it has to be OEM.

[Gotin]

I have dealt with bearing and coil issues with a B16a (probably pertaining to the age of the motor and using used parts). A previous B18c1 went through a couple aftermarket distributors until I bought oem coil and igniter (separate instances). And now, like you posted in the HT thread, dealing with the screw backing out. I have not diagnosed the internals yet, but am making the assumption based on my morning drive. Whatever the case, it sparked researching this topic.

[hondarcb]

I never had any race related failures with my OEM setup. Changed the cap and rotor every season, new plugs twice a season, plug wires every so often. I had the coil go bad on my street car, so took the one from the race car for it, and ordered the Burton Racing kit for the race car. I'm using it with a S300, and mailed it to Burton to have the board soldered in. Added some used OEM K20 coils, and a different connector than the supplied blade connectors, and the car started right up without any changes to the tune. For the cost, $340 I think, I don't think you can do better.

I wouldn't make it a priority, but when the stock parts go bad, I don't see a reason not to upgrade.

[RTW DC2R]

As long as you have a compatible ECU.

Ive never had a probl..... Nevermind not gonna jinx myself.

Personally I have also used remans without issue (Distro King back in the day).

A fellow forum member had a rotor screw back out one year on the way back from Expo. Motor ran but made the strangest noise, we thought it was coming from the trans. We were about 5 min from dropping the trans when someone popped off the distro cap and viola.

I locktite the shit outta that screw nowadays.

[aw614]

Added some used OEM K20 coils, and a different connector than the supplied blade connectors, and the car started right up without any changes to the tune. For the cost, $340 I think, I don't think you can do better.

I wouldn't make it a priority, but when the stock parts go bad, I don't see a reason not to upgrade.

The blade connector is probably the only thing that bugs me about the COP kit from burton, I know when I saw the video, I was thinking of finding an oem like connector to use instead.

[PatHidden]

Only issue I've ever had with my HDPE integra was the screw backing out and causing the rotor to crack. After 5+ years of track days, I feel that's a good run. I bring an extra dizzy with me to track days so not much of in issue on my eyes. I was gonna go with COP but with the cost of s300 and the COP kit, I didn't do it.

edit: I didn't realize this burton kit is pretty much plug n play vs the hondata/AEM COP kits. hmmmm

[DC231]

Aftermarket dizzys are pieces of shit lol.. I have literally put 7 distributors on a car in 1 day doing Dyno pulls. All were from Auto parts stores from brand new to reman units.. I have seen this issue for years with aftermarket distributors..

OEM all the way even if you just swap parts like aw614 said..

I am a firm believer in COP setup and I think if you can do it then you should and you won't look back.. idling is always smoother.. you are eliminating the spark jump tremendously by not having to jump through the coil to the rotor to the cap to the wire to the plug, you see... It's much better overall no matter how you look at it...

[Gotin]

edit: I didn't realize this burton kit is pretty much plug n play vs the hondata/AEM COP kits. hmmmm

For any one else who is not familiar with the product. All that is required is an obd1 ecu..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YAagutU ... e=youtu.be

[RTW DC2R]

Seems interesting. Im not comfortable modifying ECUs but might look into it a little more.