98-1059 is here to stay

[DC231]

We should have looked at the reference point. Lol .
Kevin, does that line also go under the brake lines by the firewall or over it ? The evap lines are discontinued sadly. The one I used for a replacement will not tuck into that provision securely. The original is hard and brittle. One thing I noticed is Honda lists a bulk hose part number for the evap hoses. Acura doesn't. Also the 98 has the little hoses off the canister. Finding a correct size even in universal was a pita.

it goes right over everything on my 01. the canister looks different than mine. the evap line on mine runs straight to a vacuum port on the top of the canister but i didnt see a vacuum port on the top of sp00ns canister. if you see the red cap on the pic i sent you that is the port the purge valve runs to when installed on my setup. post pic if you want

[Sp00nFedFilms]

I believe the oem purge line clips onto the intake arm as well as into the clip on the fuel filter mounting bracket.

Actually me and Stin found out earlier the stay on the intake is as I’d imagined, for the JDM model. It has a vacuum for the canister coming off the TB and secures there. So nothing on the USDM model goes there.

As far as the fuel filter stay, I think you’re right. I need to figure it out.

the purge line that runs from the firewall sensor to the canister does go into the intake arm as 9701TypeR described, at least on my 01 model it does. the line has 2 stay points. 1 on the fuel filter housing and the other on the intake arm. if you have an aftermarket line then it may not fit the intake arm properly.

Good info Kevin. Thanks for you expertise. I’ll be sure to correct mine when I’m home.

Hope to be scanning for codes tonight to see what I’m working with. Unfortunately, from the looks and sounds of this I’ll either be needed to purchase an evap bypass box or fix the cabin harness sooner than I’d hoped. I’ll probably go with the first option as it buys me more time.

I’ll keep you guys in the loop about what I find later.

[Sp00nFedFilms]

Ok so I was able to bring a pocket scanner home from work today. Surprisingly, the car reads perfectly fine with only one trouble code.





Surprised it even reads with the nest of trouble

[Sp00nFedFilms]

Still looking for the USDM evap bracket. If you have one please get in contact with me.



After researching tons of pics I realized why my original AC caps I bought would thread on. Here’s the correct caps. My AC was out of a 2001 ITR and apparently the threads on high and low side are different.







While I was in Honda I decided to grab 2 wedge bulbs for my rear outer tails. They were out and it bugged me.



Uh oh. More surprise.



Haven’t removed the tails to see what’s going on but this wasn’t what I’d expected. Earlier in the R’s life it had UKDM tails on it. We wondered if maybe that UKDM was a different wiring setup? Maybe someone can confirm. If not, I’ll be expecting the worst when I remove the tails.

Haven’t made much other progress lately. I feel like I have 10 scattered projects that I’ve done about 10% of each. Frustrating. On a better note, I was able to order the rest of my exterior moldings from Acura today also. Fingers crossed I made it in before any more extinct part numbers. Rear quarter windows arrive tomorrow. ETA on the back ordered roof molding and motor mount nuts is 8/11

[aw614]

S
Uh oh. More surprise.



Haven’t removed the tails to see what’s going on but this wasn’t what I’d expected. Earlier in the R’s life it had UKDM tails on it. We wondered if maybe that UKDM was a different wiring setup? Maybe someone can confirm. If not, I’ll be expecting the worst when I remove the tails.

Are you missing the wiring bulb wiring for the wedge bulbs and someone cut the wires out?

I believe the ROW tails (JDM, UKDM) do not have side bulb in their housings and that is a US spec requirement. I can't recall where I read this however.

[Sp00nFedFilms]

So after further investigation I found that yes, the ukdm tails don’t use the corners. Here’s a pic of my buddies ukdm



He’s kind enough to sell me his set of USDM tail light harnesses. Thanks Mike!

Decided to was the car tonight. Haven’t given it a thorough hand wash until now.









A clean car is a happy car.

[Sp00nFedFilms]

Took the car out for another 20 or so miles today. Felt damn good. Not only to drive the car but to find more bugs to squash.



First issue that arose. I was hearing a rotational noise. Quickly found it.



I’m hoping previous owner just put the wheel weights in the wrong spot.

Upon strapping my sons car seat in for his maiden voyage in the Type R I noticed I was actually missing the male end of the passenger rear seat belt. No biggie, but then I stared at these some more. Why don’t I think these are the correct receptacles for the rear Integra seatbelts? Maybe I’m wrong.



Then I realized I had this rattle at idle that I was chasing and I think I’m now realizing it’s the throw out bearing. Clutch sucks anyway so that will be addressed in the winter time and swapped out for an OE spec Excedy kit or OEM if it’s still available. My flywheel is still original ITR which is nice. How do I know that you ask? I was also missing the block stiffener / flywheel inspection cover. One is on order from JDMOhioDirect currently.

Lastly, I can’t find this on my Acura site. Does anyone know the PN for this strip of rubber that covers the screws here?

[Sp00nFedFilms]

I got some really good information from the seller this morning. The vin matching engines serial number as well as the original selling dealers info that wasn’t currently available to me. I sent an email to the sales manager of Baeirl Acura I’m hopes of even some service records.

Fingers crossed

[Sp00nFedFilms]

Power steering refresh tomorrow

[330R]

The part number for the window sash guide cover is 72233-SS0-013.

If you hear a noise coming from the transmission at a stop, at idle, with the clutch engaged (foot off the clutch pedal), that may be the input shaft bearing. A throw out bearing noise would be heard when pressing on the clutch pedal to disengage the clutch.