98-1059 is here to stay
Re: 98-1059 is here to stay
Digging the assigned paper work for the Tapatalk presentation.
Re: 98-1059 is here to stay
There was 9 . Spoonfed and I bought 1 . That's 7 left if anyone wants one. Who knows if those are next up for extinction.
- Sp00nFedFilms
- Posts: 279
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98-1059 is here to stay
New vs old power steering feed return line. I bought new clamps and hardware also. At first glance, I was sure they were yellow zinc but to my surprise when I opened the bag they were a weird yellowish dull coating. Never seen this on any Honda products before. I’ll snap a pic.
Also was able to install my new splash shield and new (to me) driver front fender liner with all new OEM clips.
Tons of rust I need to driver heR more!
Now since cleaning up my engine bay within the first days of getting the car, I removed this random wire going from the dizzy back to the shock tower plug. Since then I’ve noticed my tachometer didn’t work so I did some research. I found out that because I have an OBD2a car and an OBD2b engine and harness that that is one of the things that it pinned differently between years. I then proceeded to make my own stealthy wire that cannot be seen connecting these two points further back in the harness area. Tach works again!!
Now I haven’t really driven the car hard at all since ownership. Well mostly because I’ve had so much apart I usually wait about 100 miles of short trips because I really get into it. I noticed VTEC wasn’t engaging but I wrote it off as it being because of my tachometer not working (VTEC needs 3 things to be met before engagement; speed (17mph I believe), engine temperature, and oil pressure. Upon my ride home I let her eat.. nothing. Still no VTEC engagement. So I got to reading some more. I found out that there was 3 major quirks when having the obd2b harness in an obd2a car.
1. Fan operation. My cooling fan works but my condenser fan does not. It’s grounded and all fuses are good. I’m guessing they hard wired the cooling fan maybe? Still not sure it’s related but I believe so.
2. VTEC. There’s a signal missing somewhere from ECU to harness and I’m chalking it up as my cause for no VTEC engagement seeing I have no other relative codes.
3. No CEL function
None the less it brings me right back to my want for another 98 ITR engine and cabin harness. Hopefully I stumble upon one soon.
Also was able to install my new splash shield and new (to me) driver front fender liner with all new OEM clips.
Tons of rust I need to driver heR more!
Now since cleaning up my engine bay within the first days of getting the car, I removed this random wire going from the dizzy back to the shock tower plug. Since then I’ve noticed my tachometer didn’t work so I did some research. I found out that because I have an OBD2a car and an OBD2b engine and harness that that is one of the things that it pinned differently between years. I then proceeded to make my own stealthy wire that cannot be seen connecting these two points further back in the harness area. Tach works again!!
Now I haven’t really driven the car hard at all since ownership. Well mostly because I’ve had so much apart I usually wait about 100 miles of short trips because I really get into it. I noticed VTEC wasn’t engaging but I wrote it off as it being because of my tachometer not working (VTEC needs 3 things to be met before engagement; speed (17mph I believe), engine temperature, and oil pressure. Upon my ride home I let her eat.. nothing. Still no VTEC engagement. So I got to reading some more. I found out that there was 3 major quirks when having the obd2b harness in an obd2a car.
1. Fan operation. My cooling fan works but my condenser fan does not. It’s grounded and all fuses are good. I’m guessing they hard wired the cooling fan maybe? Still not sure it’s related but I believe so.
2. VTEC. There’s a signal missing somewhere from ECU to harness and I’m chalking it up as my cause for no VTEC engagement seeing I have no other relative codes.
3. No CEL function
None the less it brings me right back to my want for another 98 ITR engine and cabin harness. Hopefully I stumble upon one soon.
- Sp00nFedFilms
- Posts: 279
- Joined: Mon Aug 14, 2017 6:23 am
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98-1059 is here to stay
So I think I’ve confirmed I do still have my 98 ITR ECU.
But what I’m confused about is how is this “01 ITR harness” it’s said to have plugging into my OBD2A ECU? I thought I would find a jumper harness here or something.
But what I’m confused about is how is this “01 ITR harness” it’s said to have plugging into my OBD2A ECU? I thought I would find a jumper harness here or something.
- Sp00nFedFilms
- Posts: 279
- Joined: Mon Aug 14, 2017 6:23 am
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98-1059 is here to stay
Letting heR warm up (or cool down since it was 90+ degrees this morning) for our Cars and Coffee get together 6:30am this morning.
First stop to pickup my buddy and his 2017 Rally Red CTR
We arrived first
Anyone know of a good way to get rolling shots on the iPhone XS Max?
First stop to pickup my buddy and his 2017 Rally Red CTR
We arrived first
Anyone know of a good way to get rolling shots on the iPhone XS Max?
Re: 98-1059 is here to stay
The car is looking great!
- Sp00nFedFilms
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- Joined: Mon Aug 14, 2017 6:23 am
- Location: CT
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Re: 98-1059 is here to stay
Thank you man! Love that we can bounce things off each other. This community is awesome.Stin1 wrote:The car is looking great!
Re: 98-1059 is here to stay
Your buddy's neighbor has one cool vdub bus ! The ctr is cool too. I agree, we both have similar goals, and similar cars. I have learned something from probably everyone of these build threads on itrca. I watch each and everyone of them. You keep on make buy something else. Lol
- Sp00nFedFilms
- Posts: 279
- Joined: Mon Aug 14, 2017 6:23 am
- Location: CT
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Re: 98-1059 is here to stay
Going to touch up the brake lines and all the new suspension hardware. Factory official. Found this stuff on amazon.
- Sp00nFedFilms
- Posts: 279
- Joined: Mon Aug 14, 2017 6:23 am
- Location: CT
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Re: 98-1059 is here to stay
For anyone with slow power windows on any Honda here’s their fix for it. This stuff works wonders. Better than any white lithium grease. Last a long time and isn’t visible. I had my EM1 which the windows barely went back up after going down and sometimes they would be caused to come off track due to the dry inner and outer moldings. This made them like brand new again.
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