Type R Club of America

Wheel bearings and hubs could be nice but you can get NTN bearings(what I used for my 5 lug) aftermarket.
There's a chance the Honda part has tighter tolerances\specs so could last longer? Many will say to reuse hubs but having tried to pull the inner race from front hubs I believe it when I hear it could cause internal damage to the hub you can't easily inspect\test.

Also arguable would be suspension and motor bushings, Firmer are available but that will impact noise and vibration.

Spring seat and upper shock mount bushings.

Hand\parking brake cables (these stretch over time) if you can still get a set. (also for the nitpicky the hand brake release button since the chrome tends to fail over time)

Not sure if they were on the list but I like OEM timing belts , belt tensioner, oil pump, water pump
(Timing belts see a lot of heat and how they react to that matters since it can impact wear on the head\cams. PSA don't over tighten timing belts it will cause uneven wear on the journals, I've also heard some of the racing belts tighten when they get warm so risk the same issue)

Blower resistor - I've tried aftermarket ones when I had one go out on the 97ls and it had caused noticeably different fan speeds

Generally pre-formed rubber hoses that you can still get (replace hose clamps with oem style aftermarket)
Heater\coolant, Evap, Power steering, fuel.

There are a lot of the rubber isolaters used for mounting evap equipment (bypass solenoid, tank pressure sensor unit) 17381-SV4-L30

You could also throw the rubber abs modulator isolators in there 57101-S30-003

Rubber radiator\evap (or charcoal) can mounts. Rubber firewall seals\grommets

Rubber hood\hatch\door stoppers - Probably more nitpicky (I'm mostly re-using existing) These will harden some over time

Unless your door\window moldings are badly damaged you can generally restore\maintain pretty well with periodic deep cleaning with isopropyl alcohol followed by rubber restore compounds.

Oem T-stat (will fail over time). I don't know that I trust tolerances on aftermarket as much as I would OEM here but impact would be marginal and you can test with a pot and a thermometer until you find one close to OEM spec (helms).

If committed to OEM then brake hoses (hardline to caliper)

Caliper rebuild kits (seals), caliper springs? (formed metal pieces put pressure on pads to keep them down), Guide pins and boots

Another more nitpicky item but probably want a hand full of the color matched interior plastic (push-in to release) clips used in the rear hatch plastic (I've broken a lot of these and they are spendy but stick out when not right or damaged).

Alternator? even if aftermarket maybe have a replacement tested and ready, it will eventually be needed and remans. less and less reliably ready to drop in.

CV joints (or at least boots) and nuts

Correct exhaust seals
(if using OEM manifolds those ring seals between upper and lower manifold can be hard to get right and I've had issues with aftermarket not sealing properly)

Powersteering Rack bellows (replace before old to avoid replacing rack seals)
Power Steering pump seals?

Ball joints\Ball joint boots
upper control arms, tie rod ends, knuckle

Gas cap\seal

Oil cap\seal

Dipstick?

Maybe Nitpicky but an easy one is pedal covers

if you're stocking pistons then you'll need to have a strategy for bearings and rings but might be hard as they need to be sized to measurements. Also all rod hardware since it's tighten to stretch.

Crank seals (under flywheel and on oil pump)
Cam seals
CV seals to transmission 91205-PL3-A01, 91205-PC9-711
Valve cover seal
Valve cover washers
Spool valve seal and filter
Maybe a head gasket and head studs or bolts if sticking OEM?
Depending how much you trust aftermarket seals, Fuel pump to tank seal (also maybe tanks seals for level sensor and if you have the center tank vent that seal as well)
Fuel injector seals?
Possibly Fuel injectors themselves (OEM tend to be much better than aftermarket) If you store a used set send them in for service and balancing just before install.

Clutch & release bearings (probably fine aftermarket here)

Probably a bit out there but again if stocking pistons you may also want to think about trans syncros. They are a wear item.

I don't have a good list on the electrical side but probably any less than standard relay.

or something like that for starters

Amazing post thanks!

A few to think about there. Unfortunately I've found the CVs are now not available, although I'll try to get the boots at least. Possibly ball joints and tie rods.

I should have added i have oversized piston rings, but no real plan for bearings given i can't size them.

Will add some things to my list to get prices

I used ntn bearings on my civics for the rear. They are the oem manufacturer for the civic. They are identical to the original that Honda supplied. From the made in Japan to the ntn stamp . Is ntn the manufacturer of the integra oem rear hub/ bearing? I also got denso alternator and starter replacements. All were identical to originals, although my car came with some off brand auto parts bs . You can try and get glass of the same manufacturer for better fitment . The Acura front windshield is manufactured by ap tech. If you can get it that's probably your best bet on fitment aftermarket. On my hatch the oem manufacturer is ppg which is now pgw. Oddly the sedan is manufactured by ap tech. Weird huh? I was able to get a ap tech windshield for a coupe and it fit perfectly. You can also save money buying ngk plugs not from Honda. Worldpac has a brand of rotors called mountain. They are made in Japan. Supposedly they are oem rotors . Worldpac also sold me a civic window regulator. It was identical to the oem unit including the stamped part number except it was black instead of no finish. Same colored clips too.

Klasse wrote: ↑Sat Aug 17, 2019 4:52 pm Amazing post thanks!

A few to think about there. Unfortunately I've found the CVs are now not available, although I'll try to get the boots at least. Possibly ball joints and tie rods.

I should have added i have oversized piston rings, but no real plan for bearings given i can't size them.

Will add some things to my list to get prices

The reman axles were discontinued here . The boot kit comes with the grease. If I recall correctly, the inner and outer joint was $375 each! The boots I believe are $60 each. That's at least $870 a axle.

I may have mentioned this before, but for some reason if you search 1997 integra ls you can still get an OEM reman axle for the passenger side, but not the driver side, part number 06443-ST7-508RM

Not sure if anyone has actually bought one. I went ahead and got a raxle instead b/c they used OEM cores and if the road race guys are using them with relative success, then I think I should be fine.

There was also the OEM reman steering rack I made a thread about sometime last year, but you will need an oem core to get your core charge back.

If you upgrade hubs to 36mm (axel nut size), you can use RSX-S axels 300 mm (RSX-S) rotor, S2k calipers and pads for an oem ABS compatible BBK. 16” wheel required.

Stin1 wrote: ↑Sun Aug 18, 2019 12:26 pm I used ntn bearings on my civics for the rear. They are the oem manufacturer for the civic. They are identical to the original that Honda supplied. From the made in Japan to the ntn stamp . Is ntn the manufacturer of the integra oem rear hub/ bearing? I also got denso alternator and starter replacements. All were identical to originals, although my car came with some off brand auto parts bs . You can try and get glass of the same manufacturer for better fitment . The Acura front windshield is manufactured by ap tech. If you can get it that's probably your best bet on fitment aftermarket. On my hatch the oem manufacturer is ppg which is now pgw. Oddly the sedan is manufactured by ap tech. Weird huh? I was able to get a ap tech windshield for a coupe and it fit perfectly. You can also save money buying ngk plugs not from Honda. Worldpac has a brand of rotors called mountain. They are made in Japan. Supposedly they are oem rotors . Worldpac also sold me a civic window regulator. It was identical to the oem unit including the stamped part number except it was black instead of no finish. Same colored clips too.

Thanks for that, yes getting the same parts without the markup is always nice if you know they are the same. I have a spare used windscreen, I might grab the door glass from Pick A Part at some point, I'm fine with used for that.

aklackner wrote: ↑Sun Aug 18, 2019 3:40 pm If you upgrade hubs to 36mm (axel nut size), you can use RSX-S axels 300 mm (RSX-S) rotor, S2k calipers and pads for an oem ABS compatible BBK. 16” wheel required.

That's probably a bit far from OEM for me, although that reminds me I need to price up the front rotors as the 96 spec, 262mm and 4 x 114mm disk is apparently difficult to source.

The hose from the fuel filter to the fuel rail looks to have been discontinued. It was on my list of stuff to get but wasn't one of priority. Now it is gone.

NOCSUCOW wrote: ↑Mon Aug 19, 2019 11:16 am The hose from the fuel filter to the fuel rail looks to have been discontinued. It was on my list of stuff to get but wasn't one of priority. Now it is gone.

Can go premade https://www.amazon.com/K-motor-performa ... B07DS2RHC6
or shouldn't be terrible to have custom made though. (probably cheaper than new OEM part lol)

It looks like 74143-ST7-003 the hood rubber seal is discontinued, I tried to place an order for one and got the message. Any leads on it? Leaning towards a generic seal instead from this t-i thread
https://www.team-integra.net/threads/di ... nt.188788/

Really want to take my cowl off to fix my wiper squirter problems...