Type R Club of America

I have a used 98 GS-R (cut at headlights) and 98 ITR (modified for aftermarket engine harness) chassis harnesses. I can cut off select clips if beneficial.

coolhandluke wrote: ↑Sat Nov 09, 2019 10:09 am I have a used 98 GS-R (cut at headlights) and 98 ITR (modified for aftermarket engine harness) chassis harnesses. I can cut off select clips if beneficial.

Thank you! I bought the parts suggested by others in this thread. I haven't had time yet to see if they will work. I'll be able to in the next few days, and will keep you posted in this thread.

I'm wondering if this is doable. I worked on it a little bit tonite. In case it's unclear what I'm doing, here are a few pics from today. The new wires are the red and black ones. The male sides are in (last 2 pics), which was relatively easy by pulling through with needle nose pliers. But I can't figure out how to install the female pins in the door side plastic connector (first 2 pics).

From what I can see of the connector it looks like you'll need to remove the green ?latch? from the rear (seems hinged) and then remove the white ?nylon? insert you can see pictured on one side.

If I have some spare time I'll try to pull one of the old door harnesses out of the LS to take a look at the connector.

There's a lot of guidance to upgrade speaker wire for optimal performance so I think I get the project and the effort to do it cleanly resonates but......
Are you running the up rated wire from a separate 4 channel amp?

Regardless of listed rating, unless a head unit is wired with a separately fused (direct) power feed, head units are limited to about 15amp@14v.

This limits them to <22W channel RMS/45W peak output or you'd pop your fuse (keep this in mind when upgrading speakers).

45W@14v means a load of about 3.2 amps (over the speaker wire).

You can use an online voltage drop calculator to see (even at peak) that <6' of 20awg copper(OEM is at least this if not larger) has only a 2.79% (1.8% for 18awg) voltage drop with a 3.2amp 14v load. This is well within recommendations for sizing (<5%). 18awg (6')copper wire would be within guidelines to almost a 130w output.

Its at least unclear if you'd experience a benefit from upgrading OEM front door speaker wire unless you've added a 4 chan. amp with either longer leads or significantly increased power output.

Thanks. I did remove the green latch (after I took the pic), and pried open the white piece too, but maybe I didn't remove all the way. I didn't want to damage it. Lmk if you are able to look at your harness piece.

Yes I have a 4 channel amp for the speakers. The speakers are 75w RMS, so seems like I need to upgrade speaker wire. Already have the rear speakers set up, which was super easy.

Still haven't figured this out. Can't find the right size female pin connectors. Considering going rogue soon, with a MacGyver solution or something.

coolhandluke wrote: ↑Sat Nov 09, 2019 10:09 am I have a used 98 GS-R (cut at headlights) and 98 ITR (modified for aftermarket engine harness) chassis harnesses. I can cut off select clips if beneficial.

So if you still want to cut off the clips that connect to the door, that'd be awesome. Let me know either way.

If so, then I should be able to just reuse the pin connectors. Would be super helpful.

FWIW I'm just going to use the factory wires for the front speakers. No more messing with the door molex thing.