Type R Club of America

I'm ditching the brackets and rods that connect to the front LCA's. I'm basically just using the front section that mounts to the OE tow hitch points as a way to mount my radiator.

coolhandluke wrote: ↑Thu Apr 09, 2020 1:48 pm What is the logic behind the traction bar with the spherical front lower compliance pieces? I previously ran a Full-Race traction bar to assist with hard braking on track. I switched to Kingpin front lower compliance bushings and was able to drop the traction bars to cut weight and improve street comfort.

Got some more tasks knocked out...
Was able to get the orange grommets swapped out for black ones




Installed Spoon magnet drain plug on transmission. Will be swapping my oil pan to the Mugen baffled pan later and will install magnetic oil drain then




Made a 6AWG jumper from the battery to the positive terminal post.



Got the AN fittings in and finished up the fuel lines






Completed the Power Steering loop with wilwood reservoir




Lastly, installed the throttle cable





Will install axles and Mugen baffled oil pan later today! I'll update soon as I do

Insidiouseg6 wrote: ↑Thu Apr 09, 2020 10:25 pm I'm ditching the brackets and rods that connect to the front LCA's. I'm basically just using the front section that mounts to the OE tow hitch points as a way to mount my radiator.

coolhandluke wrote: ↑Thu Apr 09, 2020 1:48 pm What is the logic behind the traction bar with the spherical front lower compliance pieces? I previously ran a Full-Race traction bar to assist with hard braking on track. I switched to Kingpin front lower compliance bushings and was able to drop the traction bars to cut weight and improve street comfort.

Oh I see, interesting. The good news is without attaching the LCA joints, the car will be less noisy during street driving. Stiff transitions or driveway/etc were pain points with my traction bars.

You are knocking out the progress! The wiring, looming, and fuel/PS lines look superb. It won't be long until you are taking your first drive.

coolhandluke wrote: ↑Mon Apr 13, 2020 5:04 pm

Oh I see, interesting. The good news is without attaching the LCA joints, the car will be less noisy during street driving. Stiff transitions or driveway/etc were pain points with my traction bars.

You are knocking out the progress! The wiring, looming, and fuel/PS lines look superb. It won't be long until you are taking your first drive.
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Man those traction bars can be noisy, I recall having them on my old EG.

It's definitely getting close to being able to turn the car on. Still got a few things I need to figure out but I'd say within a month or so it could be drivable.

More updates!
Installed the Mugen baffled pan. Side to side to the OEM pan to get a visual of the added baffles






Installed the drive axles




Installed the Karceps cold air intake



Made a small bracket to be able to tightly hold down my charge harness as it's routed near the serpentine belt and can't have any slack near that section. Used the OEM torque mount holes and some random bolts and nuts I had.







My next steps are to clean all the old tint off of the rear window and get the window guy to come install front and rear windows.

This thing is looking awesome! Did you run -6 for your return fuel lines as well? Since all my lines were in questionable shape when I dropped the plastic tray I decided to run braided fuel lines from the tank all the way up as well as replace the brake lines.

In the time its taken me to just get the rear brake lines bent and figured out, you've pretty much put your whole car together. Pretty awesome how quick you've knocked this out! Keep it up, can't wait to see this thing all the way together!

Hey , your on the front page of HT .

Stin1 wrote: ↑Thu Apr 16, 2020 8:46 am Hey , your on the front page of HT .

Oh dang! Didn't even know it haha. Thanks!

DC4MC wrote: ↑Tue Apr 14, 2020 8:14 am This thing is looking awesome! Did you run -6 for your return fuel lines as well? Since all my lines were in questionable shape when I dropped the plastic tray I decided to run braided fuel lines from the tank all the way up as well as replace the brake lines.

In the time its taken me to just get the rear brake lines bent and figured out, you've pretty much put your whole car together. Pretty awesome how quick you've knocked this out! Keep it up, can't wait to see this thing all the way together!

Man that seems like quite some work, but nothing like peace of mind with all new lines! Hats off to you sir. The build has definitely sped up of late with Covid-19 freeing up some time lol.

I did run all -6 AN for the fuel lines and the return. Only thing that saw -8 was part of the power steering loop because it used 3/8" lines

Got some more scratched off the list

Wrapped the headers and installed. (Had been waiting for the header wrap to arrive).





Gonna be changing all my clamps over to T-bolt clamps. Got the radiator hoses and intake swapped out. Still waiting on the smaller ones that will go on the heater hoses.





Also a few things I picked up.

The upper rad hose looks really close to the intake clamp, it won't rub through from engine movement?

aw614 wrote: ↑Fri Apr 17, 2020 12:27 am The upper rad hose looks really close to the intake clamp, it won't rub through from engine movement?

It is very close but I ran this exact motor/radiator/intake setup on my old hatchback build for about 5 years including handful of track days and long 6+ hr drives and the upper hose has no signs of wear. Ideally I would want a bit more of a gap between the two but I haven't had issues in the past. Appreciate the concern though!