Type R Club of America

PeteTheCarFreak wrote: ↑Fri Nov 15, 2019 12:27 pm

CDMTypeR wrote:Have you tried looking at the import shops? They usually have tons of used OEM suspension off the Japan cars. If you can't find anything let me know, I have sources through our JDM site.

I did take a look at Honda Motors Online, haven't looked much elsewhere. I typically try not to buy parts from those places just because I hate seeing good JDM ITRs cut up so we can buy parts off of them.. but if I'm not having much luck elsewhere I'd have to do it.

Where do you get your parts from? From my research I believe the JDM 98 spec struts were different than USDM and 96 spec JDM.

I either get them from local import shops or directly from Japan.

UPDATE

Couple things have happened with the car since my last update. When I bought the car I had an inspection setup with a local import shop but they were pretty booked so it just got in a couple days ago.

I work for Honda and had a great day at work selling our new FK8 that we had in inventory, but that night coming home my alternator belt broke off that I didn't notice until the battery light came on on my way home. I was able the get the car home where it sat for a day and then my inspection was due. I didn't have time to mess with it so I charged up the battery and brought it to them to have the cracking accessory belts changed out.

They did a full inspection (extremely thorough) as well as do a compression test. They did add just a ton of notes in, not everything listed is stuff that's wrong.. just what they found. I'll also list under each picture a rough list of what I need to do.





• Battery Tie Down
• Brake Fluid Flush
• Power Steering Fluid Flush
• JDM ITR Uncut Valve Cover
• Timing Belt Cover



• Clutch Master Cylinder
• Clutch Fluid
• Power Steering Hoses
• Air Filter
• Airbox Support Bracket
• Intake Breather Tube



• Radiator
• Radiator Fans
• Engine Mounts
• Transmission Mounts



• COMPLETE SUSPENSION OVERHAUL
• Bushings
• Front & Rear Sway Bars
• Shocks/Springs
• Ball Joints
• Front Upper Control Arms
• Exhaust Heat Shield
• Exhaust Hangers



• ABS Wire/Line Hardware?
• TPS Sensor?

Here's what they did:





Car is now idling at 1700 RPM in neutral until I come to a stop.. no idea why.

So overall I knew that this car had issues but I am mainly disappointed in the engine's compression being all over the place.. cylinder 2 looks perfect but other than that it is a total shit show. For now I'm not going to worry about the compression as much as the other stuff.

I think I am going to start off with finding a right hand drive CMC and then do the suspension overhaul.

UPDATE

Not a crazy update but some small progress.. the guys over at BK Industries did some looking into why the car throws a CEL under WOT and what's making it idle weird. Turns out there is a aftermarket throttle body on the car with no stopper for how far the throttle can open. I ordered a OEM ITR throttle body and it's on the way.

Today I was able to have some time to play with the car, installed a antenna on the car so there's not a random hole in the quarter panel now and replaced my chipped USDM taillights with a set of 98 spec JDM taillights! Thanks CDMTypeR for the taillights



Also removed the previous owner's windshield sticker.

Can you just adjust the throttle cable or TPS? An OEM TB is probably a good move unless you have a need(and are tuned) for an oversized TB

From what I understand when the throttle cable is properly adjusted the pedal should hit the floor at WOT, if not it will strain\stretch the throttle cable if you're hitting the throttle stopper first. The TB components aren't made to take the force you put on the pedal.

It's possible someone overtightened the throttle cable in an attempt to either adjust the idle or prevent throttle plate from sticking. So i'd check that and if there's an adjustable closed stop make sure it's allowing the plate to close completely.

Here's an article on adjusting the TPS, I used this to help setup TPS on the Edelbrock TB I'll be running.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx ... d-2830131/
I used an external 12v power supply connected to an adjustable voltage converter so I could set exactly 5 volt to supply the TPS during calibration. It avoids sticking pins into the harness connector but that's an easier route as you' can turn your ignition on. Once powered I just took measurements with a volt meter from the sensor signal post until it output exactly the correct specs.

Once you confirm the TPS is adjusted it should just be a matter of (re)adjusting the throttle cable and finally checking pedal travel.

aklackner wrote:Can you just adjust the throttle cable or TPS? An OEM TB is probably a good move unless you have a need(and are tuned) for an oversized TB

Yeah they are adjustable, you're probably right the throttle cable might need adjustment. I'm looking to run a factory setup with stock ECU so I have no need for the oversized throttle body they installed.

Tail lights look great, glad you are happy with them!!

Young brotha PETE! Welcome aboard man. So glad to see you doing well and finally scoring your R. Looking forward to your posts.

JDMJNKY wrote:Young brotha PETE! Welcome aboard man. So glad to see you doing well and finally scoring your R. Looking forward to your posts.

Haha hey man! I should be updating this again soon

UPDATE

It's been a while since I've posted but the car is still making progress! The suspension is still sitting crooked but I have some parts currently on the way to fix it.

I bought a OEM ITR throttle body off of Facebook.



I had BK Industries clean up the throttle body and install it with new OEM hardware and gasket. It's running and idling better with no CEL at WOT, definitely can feel more power. Turns out it had some aftermarket throttle body with no stopper for the throttle and it would send too much voltage to the ECU and cause a CEL.




I bought a OEM Type R booklet for it and a PY ITR photobombed my picture, I didn't even see it coming I was shocked. What are the odds!! Lol



The car for some reason had a "Oh shit handle" on the driver's side, so I deleted it.



The imprints from the handle are still there but have actually gotten a little better since I deleted it.



If you noticed on one of my first posts the strut tower bar's brackets were way too light of a color so I had a friend powder coat them. We based the color off of the rusty brackets for my new factory optional JDM ITR rear strut bar. I had him do the brackets for the rear of course too, they turned out perfect.



Rear strut bar installed.



Reinstalled the front strut bar as well as threw a spark plug cover on until I get a OEM one with OEM hardware.



I bought some factory Recaros!! Been super excited for these. I had Indepth Detailing clean them up and got some BNIB low sitting Juran Racing seat rails from JDM Ohio Direct. Seat rails are definitely high quality and were cake to install.





It's too bad the US ITR didn't get these seats as an option, they are very comfortable and I would say even change the driving experience even better!
They are doggo approved.



On a side note, this car is my daily driver and I've had to put no oil in this car since changing it. I've never had a car keep such a consistent level of oil through intervals!

PeteTheCarFreak wrote: ↑Sun Feb 02, 2020 3:31 pm UPDATE

It's been a while since I've posted but the car is still making progress! The suspension is still sitting crooked but I have some parts currently on the way to fix it.

Was thinking about F. UCAs today since I got a set of PCI arms from PatHidden's part out. Just to confirm since you mentioned changing height of the car. Have you loosened all the bushings, including the UCAs and re tightened with pre-load? Rubber bushings can cause a pretty big height difference if tightened at different heights like at full droop. I ended up buying hubstands to make sure I can get bushings set just right after doing work or making height changes.

I'd also check the UCA bushings closely to make sure nothing is torn or warped which could also lead to differences side to side. the UCAs should be hard to pull down with the shock disconnected, if they move easily you'll want to get some replacement bushings in there.