Type R Club of America

Testing low level warning. Also triggered by a float sensor. This one, near the bottom of the tank.

More flashy than I’d really like but I can manually cancel/clear from the shift light display so it’s not continuous flashing.

https://vimeo.com/354511223

Pass thru post installed and sealed (ip65) with anaerobic liquid gasket.

Will handle 250 amps.

4awg pure ofc will feed from battery and back to hatch.

Connector kit and wire came today.
Not all will be going in the car but wanted to make sure I have the majority of what I needed on hand including a variety of gauge and oem style striped wire.

I got a chance to re-run a pressure test and ran volume tests for the (4) WMI nozzles I have:

Pressure test now reads 200 psi while pump is run. Drops to 150 as soon as pump shuts off though so hard say with certainty what pressure actually is.

Nozzles listed below are all supposedly rated at 100psi. By the math that would mean @200 psi they would flow ~1.5 times rated values. Based on my results tolerance aren’t very tight.

The 3.5, 4, & 5 nozzles were all so close to each other in repeated tests and for the duration they’ll be run I doubt they’re functionally any different. It seems like 4 and 5 are quite undersize. The 3 seems a bit of an over performer and the 10 was pretty close in expectation. Given that in the same system at the same pressure the nozzle rated for 10 gal/hr @100 psi nearly tripled the flow of both the 4 and 5 really highlights how poorly these performed for rating.

3.5 nozzle tested ~4.73 gal/hr (~200psi, 13.8v, 20 oz over 2min)

4.0 nozzle tested ~4.8 gal/hr (~200psi, 13.8v, 20.5 oz over 2min)

5.0 nozzle tested ~5.04 gal/hr (~200psi, 13.8v, 21.3 oz over 2min)

10.0 nozzle tested ~14.27 gal/hr (~200psi, 13.8v 30.42 oz over 1min, due to 1L container used I had to shorten this test)

The pump supply filter was checked to confirm it was clear after the tests. The 5.0 nozzle test was re-run with vent/breather filter removed to ensure it wasn’t limiting flow, though from 10.0 nozzle test it didn’t seem likely. Re-test confirmed early results.

Best yet none of the hoses I made had any leaks during any of the tests! A few joints that weren’t tightened enough did, easy to address. All in all I’m very proud as this was my first time making custom braided ptfe lines. There was some blood involved, but well worth it.

Next step will be to drain the tank entirely, Remove the tank and mounting deck from the ITR for now and continue on getting things I cleaned and in place.

In less fun areas I finally took the time to confirm what I suspected. The upper rear right control/camber arm mount threads were damaged and poorly repaired. Existing repair was too large for regular timesert inserts so I’ve ordered a kit of 10-1.25 bigserts (m14 outer threads) and matching cobalt drill bits to get the holes cleaned out properly.

It looks like the clutch lines shipped and should be delivered Weds?

Also ordered rattle cans of spray max 2k black primer and 2k clear. Plan to scotchbrite the steering column support then see how well the epoxy goes on. Hoping I’ll have enough left to do the evap canister mount and maybe some other miscellaneous brackets. If all goes well I may buy more of the 2k clear to use after a clean up of the headlights.

I feel so much better with the proper and well repaired threads back in. Still one more to do but this was the one that was a larger concern since you could see the prior repair wasn’t centered and hole they drilled was 1/2 in and out of the original bolt. Probably should have taken a photo of what it was before I drilled and put the bigsert threads in.

Drilled and bigsert threads (14mm-1.25)


Bigsert going in on the roll tap. I used thread locker but the bigserts mechanically lock in place so it probably wasn’t necessary.


Repaired

Upper rear control arm mount threads repaired

Did yet more testing on the WMI system since I’d become concerned that fluid would collect in the intake (since it’s being sprayed against the opposite intake wall) instead of traveling up into the cylinders.

My first tests showed another issue, the intake mount (sandwich bung) is too deep for the wide spray pattern (60deg) of the prometh nozzles. The spray was hitting the walls of the bung and exiting as more of a splatter.

Ordered a (370ml/min) devil’s own nozzle and took a 1/8npt Tap to the sandwich bung to get the nozzle as deep as possible and it looks like it worked out. (See videos below)

Also I realize that when injection is triggered the engine will be moving significant amounts of air. Looks like over 200cfm @5000 rpm (350+cfm @8700)with the JRSC. To simulate this in my test I connected my shopvac (rated to 190 cfm) to the intake tube loosely. Keep in mind this was performed with 100% water. Methanol should vaporize much more efficiently.

Overall I’m very happy with the results with the Devil’s own nozzle. While volume is testing lower than listed it’s within my target and could in theory be triggered earlier. A fine mist is achieved and not much water collected in the intake. It’s actually pretty cool testing demonstrated that even if water does collect at 5000rpm (190 cfm) it couldn’t drip out of the intake (see bottom video)

All videos were taken in slowmo setting on my iPhone with flash on for better visibility of the spray pattern.

Devil’s own nozzle (actually tested at ~250ml/min)
https://vimeo.com/355242357

Here’s the prometh 252ml/min nozzle (actually tested ~300ml/min). While the orientation is different that wasn’t the cause of the difference in spray it was just the angle I got recorded.) It’s also not the fault of the nozzle, the nozzle appears to have superior pattern, but it sits too deep in the sandwich mount and sprays into the mount wall.
https://vimeo.com/355243830

Found this very cool with vacuum running I could turn the intake straight up and the water would just sit and evaporate, the air flowing into the intake was at enough velocity to push the water back up onto the intake wall.
https://vimeo.com/355245539

Car is coming along great! Are you a engineer?

Thanks not an engineer, more of a computer geek.

Amazing work . I love the updates.