Type R Club of America

aw614 wrote: ↑Sat Nov 23, 2019 1:50 pm Update with a 3mm spacer while rotating the wheel in the air did not have issues, on the car and driving, it kind of scratched the caliper. A 5mm spacer will probably be better

Thank you for sharing.

Just to add another to the 4x100 list, 15x8 Enkei PF01 +35 clears with plenty of space,


I am curious if the if the bigger brake kits would clear it, it's got a ton of space without having to use spacers

Will this work?

Colour: Matte Black - Size: 16" - Width: 7.5J - Hole: 5H-114.3 - Offset: +30 (new gen spoon wheel)
On the twin block caliper?

Also maybe a dumb question - but can the twinblock caliper fit on the rear as well? I cant seem to find anything on that

audipwr1 wrote: ↑Thu Jun 23, 2022 11:50 am Will this work?

Colour: Matte Black - Size: 16" - Width: 7.5J - Hole: 5H-114.3 - Offset: +30 (new gen spoon wheel)
On the twin block caliper?

Also maybe a dumb question - but can the twinblock caliper fit on the rear as well? I cant seem to find anything on that

The original Spoon 16x7''s cleared at +45, the lower offset adds additional clearance. The original Spoon 15x6.5'' SW388's did not clear without a spacer.

coolhandluke wrote: ↑Mon Aug 14, 2017 9:33 pm Wheel List - Spoon Brake Caliper Clearance
All credit to BlueR for this information

Rims that clear without a spacer:
...
16"
...
Spoon SW388 [16x7, +45]
...


Rims that don't clear without a spacer:
15''
...
Spoon SW388 [15x6.5, +42 offset] requires a 7mm spacer
...

Any idea on getting them in there without rolling the fender?

Add Camber, run a 205 width tire

My 15x8 +32 TE37SL clear Mugen (s2k) calipers. Which is amazing since typically require 16” wheels.
I don’t have spoon twin or mono blocks to check but should clear either.

I’m running about 3deg camber front and back and have fenders trimmed/rolled to fit 225 rubber. Fit is flush+ not what I’d run for aesthetics but has been fantastic on the track.

audipwr1 wrote: ↑Thu Jun 23, 2022 11:50 am Will this work?

Colour: Matte Black - Size: 16" - Width: 7.5J - Hole: 5H-114.3 - Offset: +30 (new gen spoon wheel)
On the twin block caliper?

Also maybe a dumb question - but can the twinblock caliper fit on the rear as well? I cant seem to find anything on that

There aren't many rear brake options out there. I think Wilwood has a kit and I've heard of people using NSX rears, however there may be issues with the ebrake working in some cases.

Most of the braking is done up front and from what I recall, the Spoon twinblock was design to retain the same pedal ratio as the stock calipers. I know when I installed them, the pedal feel is similar.

aw614 wrote: ↑Fri Jun 24, 2022 11:17 am Most of the braking is done up front and from what I recall, the Spoon twinblock was design to retain the same pedal ratio as the stock calipers. I know when I installed them, the pedal feel is similar.

Probably worth it’s own discussion but to share here:
Something that’s taken me awhile to adjust to on the track is that during threshold braking, especially on FF cars where weight is already forward of center, a car pitches forward and the load is transferred forward away from the rear wheels. This is more pronounced on street able cars with softer damping and thus less ability to control load transfer. Less load means the same crossection of tire has less traction, so the rear wheels hit the limit of traction before the front. Increasing rear braking force only means the rear will break traction and start to slide even earlier. You’ll actually increase stopping/slowing distance, unless you adjust the prop valve to decrease rear braking force. This is why you don’t generally see rear brake caliper upgrades for street driven cars and frequently see the use of more aggressive pads in front than rear and/or adjustable prop valves on the track. More serious applications even call for the prop to be adjustable while driving to allow compensation for changes to weight as fuel is consumed.

The only reason I can see rear brake upgrades making sense is in a situation where rear brakes are over heating and a larger rotor helps manage heat better. This is a common issue on heavily tracked S2000s where you’ll find use of extended brackets to move the rear OEM caliper further out to allow use with a larger rotor.

I feel like there’s a lot of misunderstanding around BBKs, with thinking that increased size (caliper/piston count/rotor/pad) delivers more powerful braking but that’s not generally the case.

For Integras (light car, generally considered well braked from factory) most bbk kits (Spoon and Mugen) keep the same OEM size pads or smaller and roughly the same total piston area. The kits reduce weight and improve heat management for more consistent braking. More aggressive braking is more typically achieved with more aggressive pads. Improvements to braking force with a bbk are generally indirect, in that better heat management means the ability to run more aggressive pads longer with less risk of fade.

It’s probably not something we generally want to hear but even oversized rotors create issues outside proper applications and also applies to running brakes ducting off track.
(https://www.brembo.com/en/company/news/ ... emans-2018
https://racingbrake.com/racing-pad-sele ... d-deposit/)

Peak braking performance occurs in a relatively narrow temperature band, defined by pad compound. (Understanding this is very very important to having a safe performance vehicle on or off track.) Issues arise not only when small rotors can’t effectively manage the heat load of aggressive pads, but also when large rotors are over cooled by available air flow between braking zones. This means pads and rotors will be outside optimal temperatures at the ends of long straights or during highway driving meaning reduced braking at peak demand. Also fluctuations in temperatures due too much availability cooling will also fatigue the rotor and pad material leading to cracking and failures. Understanding brake temperatures is very important to pad selection since a pad with too low a temperature rating for a given rotor and use will gum up the rotor surface and may lead to pad material breaking up scoring the rotor. A pad with too high a temperature range will have reduced performance when most needed at highest speeds as brakes are at their lowest temperatures.

audipwr1 wrote: ↑Thu Jun 23, 2022 1:18 pm Any idea on getting them in there without rolling the fender?

Switching topics, the lower +30 offset + wider rim are bringing the edge of the wheel outside towards the fenders. Ride height and camber are your main adjustment levers.