Old school B series rebuild - FULL story
Re: Old school B series rebuild - FULL story
I used the k-tuned adapters and haven't had any issue with leaks and made great power for the setup for mostly stock+ some bolt-ons. I highly recommend.
I just made sure to cut off the clip\horn on the top of the injectors completely smooth so the adapters could slide all the way down and seat more securely.
https://www.speedfactoryracing.net/k-tu ... ies-motors
To avoid any issues or need to modify wiring I used adapters from Xenocron (couldn't find them now, not sure if they still sell) similar to these.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4x-Acura-RDX-4 ... 2373681397
With the hats and wiring adapters it was 100% plug and play, just change the injector size in s300 and you're set.
I just made sure to cut off the clip\horn on the top of the injectors completely smooth so the adapters could slide all the way down and seat more securely.
https://www.speedfactoryracing.net/k-tu ... ies-motors
To avoid any issues or need to modify wiring I used adapters from Xenocron (couldn't find them now, not sure if they still sell) similar to these.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4x-Acura-RDX-4 ... 2373681397
With the hats and wiring adapters it was 100% plug and play, just change the injector size in s300 and you're set.
- coolhandluke
- Posts: 3359
- Joined: Sun Aug 13, 2017 11:26 am
- Location: US
- Badge Number: 98-1040
- Contact:
Re: Old school B series rebuild - FULL story
I'v been running the RDX injectors since '08.
Type-R Expo
Current: 98-1040 Stolen 12/22/21
Previous: 98-0197, 01-0187, 98-0731, 97 #00171
Current: 98-1040 Stolen 12/22/21
Previous: 98-0197, 01-0187, 98-0731, 97 #00171
- 3pedalJohn
- Posts: 39
- Joined: Thu Aug 17, 2017 12:17 pm
- Location: Mich
- Contact:
Re: Old school B series rebuild - FULL story
I am using the stock b series fuel rail with no issues. The RDX injectors being an OEM Honda part was a big selling point for me along with the improved spray pattern. With all that air flow from the 4piston head and intake manifold I bet there would be nice improvements from better atomization of The RDX injector. It may not show in higher peak numbers but provide better response all over the rev range.coolhandluke wrote: ↑Fri Jan 18, 2019 6:08 pmThe most difficult aspect of RDX injectors is finding a fuel rail that properly aligns and seats the injectors. Many on the market are simply adapted for RDK, leading to improperly spray angle (less power) or leaks.
OP did your tuner degree the cams at all?
96 Acura Integra GS-R TOY 04 Acura TL 6MT DD 88 Astro Van LT Tow
Re: Old school B series rebuild - FULL story
I'm using GRAM injectors which I upgraded to after using RC injectors for 10 years. I'm pretty happy with the performance of the GRAM parts and have also heard very good things online about them. I'm haven't seen any information online that shows how the RDX injectors would be any better, but would be happy to read up on anything you have that would convince me there would be a noticeable improvement.3pedalJohn wrote: ↑Sat Jan 19, 2019 10:12 amI am using the stock b series fuel rail with no issues. The RDX injectors being an OEM Honda part was a big selling point for me along with the improved spray pattern. With all that air flow from the 4piston head and intake manifold I bet there would be nice improvements from better atomization of The RDX injector. It may not show in higher peak numbers but provide better response all over the rev range.coolhandluke wrote: ↑Fri Jan 18, 2019 6:08 pmThe most difficult aspect of RDX injectors is finding a fuel rail that properly aligns and seats the injectors. Many on the market are simply adapted for RDK, leading to improperly spray angle (less power) or leaks.
OP did your tuner degree the cams at all?
When running Pro2 cams you are not really in a position to "play" with cam gear settings. Clearances are tight enough that you simply set them as per Skunk2s recommended settings and leave them there. Moving them a few degrees one way or the other can lead to P-V or V-V interference. The builder did set the cams correctly to the recommended settings.
As I look at all the various comments and data from similar builds (they are all unique of course) I am getting the feeling that my 146ft-lbs of torque is a pretty respectable peak. Hitting my peak HP at about 8,500RPM is more or less what I expected and I could likely hold that power until well past 9,000RPM and perhaps get a few more ponies with a better intake configuration. I could likely play around with several variables to try and get more low end torque, but those changes would likely result in less power up top, and ultimately less area under the HP curve assuming I shift around 9,200 RPM. A different header might also move things around a little, but I want to be careful that I don't throw money at a part just to get one more hp or simply move the power band around.
At the end of the day this is still just a 1.9L engine with a modest 11:5:1CR running crapy 91 octane Cali gas...
-
- Posts: 1096
- Joined: Tue Aug 15, 2017 2:17 am
- Location: US
- Badge Number: 01-1322
Re: Old school B series rebuild - FULL story
I'd say go for the max rpm!!
ITR CDM 01-1322
2001 GS-R
I have badge #00-1259 in hand.
2001 GS-R
I have badge #00-1259 in hand.
- white rocket
- Posts: 135
- Joined: Mon Aug 14, 2017 5:55 pm
Re: Old school B series rebuild - FULL story
I had a very similar build to yours and I was above 150ft-lbs of torque and 230whp. Most likely due to a bigger bore. I was slightly above 12.5:1 c/r as well. When we were tuning we noticed that the power on those cams fell off at about 8900rpm. I kept a 9200rpm fuel cut as I needed the extra rpms to prevent a mid-corner shift at Pacific Raceways and never felt that power drop at all. I think the Pro3's give you that extra little bit on the top end that the Pro2's lack. It's splitting hairs at this point really. You're definitely going to be spending mega $$$ to get 1 or 2 more ponies.BabyNSX wrote: ↑Tue Jan 22, 2019 1:04 pm As I look at all the various comments and data from similar builds (they are all unique of course) I am getting the feeling that my 146ft-lbs of torque is a pretty respectable peak. Hitting my peak HP at about 8,500RPM is more or less what I expected and I could likely hold that power until well past 9,000RPM and perhaps get a few more ponies with a better intake configuration. I could likely play around with several variables to try and get more low end torque, but those changes would likely result in less power up top, and ultimately less area under the HP curve assuming I shift around 9,200 RPM. A different header might also move things around a little, but I want to be careful that I don't throw money at a part just to get one more hp or simply move the power band around.
At the end of the day this is still just a 1.9L engine with a modest 11:5:1CR running crapy 91 octane Cali gas...
I'd love to see what a Kinsler ITB set-up with a plenum would do on your car. That was the next step for me before I sold mine. The mid-range would be insanity!!
"The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten"
- 3pedalJohn
- Posts: 39
- Joined: Thu Aug 17, 2017 12:17 pm
- Location: Mich
- Contact:
Re: Old school B series rebuild - FULL story
I am sure it’s much better than RC injectors! Not trying to convince, just wondering.BabyNSX wrote: ↑Tue Jan 22, 2019 1:04 pmI'm using GRAM injectors which I upgraded to after using RC injectors for 10 years. I'm pretty happy with the performance of the GRAM parts and have also heard very good things online about them. I'm haven't seen any information online that shows how the RDX injectors would be any better, but would be happy to read up on anything you have that would convince me there would be a noticeable improvement.3pedalJohn wrote: ↑Sat Jan 19, 2019 10:12 amI am using the stock b series fuel rail with no issues. The RDX injectors being an OEM Honda part was a big selling point for me along with the improved spray pattern. With all that air flow from the 4piston head and intake manifold I bet there would be nice improvements from better atomization of The RDX injector. It may not show in higher peak numbers but provide better response all over the rev range.coolhandluke wrote: ↑Fri Jan 18, 2019 6:08 pm
The most difficult aspect of RDX injectors is finding a fuel rail that properly aligns and seats the injectors. Many on the market are simply adapted for RDK, leading to improperly spray angle (less power) or leaks.
OP did your tuner degree the cams at all?
When running Pro2 cams you are not really in a position to "play" with cam gear settings. Clearances are tight enough that you simply set them as per Skunk2s recommended settings and leave them there. Moving them a few degrees one way or the other can lead to P-V or V-V interference. The builder did set the cams correctly to the recommended settings.
I understand, I measured piston to deck, Piston to valve and valve to valve even with ITR cams for my build. I figured out how wild I could go to let the tuner know and for my own knowledge. I decided to have the cams adjusted based on feedback from hytech and it didn’t disappoint, cleaned up the power down-low. They ended up being well with in the safe range at 4 deg adv intake and 2 deg rtd exhaust.
96 Acura Integra GS-R TOY 04 Acura TL 6MT DD 88 Astro Van LT Tow
Re: Old school B series rebuild - FULL story
Yeah, it looks like the difference between the two builds output may simply come down to slightly more displacement and compression (likely running better gas to allow that as well). I think with a 9200RPM fuel cut I'll likely get the same basic drivability as you did. Truthfully I haven't spun the engine up all out much as it simply is pretty crazy ripping on it and making babies cry in the next town.white rocket wrote: ↑Wed Jan 23, 2019 6:34 pmI had a very similar build to yours and I was above 150ft-lbs of torque and 230whp. Most likely due to a bigger bore. I was slightly above 12.5:1 c/r as well. When we were tuning we noticed that the power on those cams fell off at about 8900rpm. I kept a 9200rpm fuel cut as I needed the extra rpms to prevent a mid-corner shift at Pacific Raceways and never felt that power drop at all. I think the Pro3's give you that extra little bit on the top end that the Pro2's lack. It's splitting hairs at this point really. You're definitely going to be spending mega $$$ to get 1 or 2 more ponies.BabyNSX wrote: ↑Tue Jan 22, 2019 1:04 pm As I look at all the various comments and data from similar builds (they are all unique of course) I am getting the feeling that my 146ft-lbs of torque is a pretty respectable peak. Hitting my peak HP at about 8,500RPM is more or less what I expected and I could likely hold that power until well past 9,000RPM and perhaps get a few more ponies with a better intake configuration. I could likely play around with several variables to try and get more low end torque, but those changes would likely result in less power up top, and ultimately less area under the HP curve assuming I shift around 9,200 RPM. A different header might also move things around a little, but I want to be careful that I don't throw money at a part just to get one more hp or simply move the power band around.
At the end of the day this is still just a 1.9L engine with a modest 11:5:1CR running crapy 91 octane Cali gas...
I'd love to see what a Kinsler ITB set-up with a plenum would do on your car. That was the next step for me before I sold mine. The mid-range would be insanity!!
I just did a quick look into the Kinsler ITB setup and that looks very sexy. Do you mind sharing with me exactly what configuration you were thinking of going with? I may decide to go this route
Not sure if you've played around much with Pro1/2/3 cams before but there isn't much wiggle room between the various mechanical parts once you've set the timing marks where Skunk2 recommends. Maybe I could go 1-2 degrees one way or the other, but things start getting way to close for comfort rather quickly with these lump sticks. Now imagine all stuff moving within 1mm of each other at 9000+ RPM...3pedalJohn wrote: ↑Wed Jan 23, 2019 8:56 pmI am sure it’s much better than RC injectors! Not trying to convince, just wondering.BabyNSX wrote: ↑Tue Jan 22, 2019 1:04 pmI'm using GRAM injectors which I upgraded to after using RC injectors for 10 years. I'm pretty happy with the performance of the GRAM parts and have also heard very good things online about them. I'm haven't seen any information online that shows how the RDX injectors would be any better, but would be happy to read up on anything you have that would convince me there would be a noticeable improvement.3pedalJohn wrote: ↑Sat Jan 19, 2019 10:12 am
I am using the stock b series fuel rail with no issues. The RDX injectors being an OEM Honda part was a big selling point for me along with the improved spray pattern. With all that air flow from the 4piston head and intake manifold I bet there would be nice improvements from better atomization of The RDX injector. It may not show in higher peak numbers but provide better response all over the rev range.
OP did your tuner degree the cams at all?
When running Pro2 cams you are not really in a position to "play" with cam gear settings. Clearances are tight enough that you simply set them as per Skunk2s recommended settings and leave them there. Moving them a few degrees one way or the other can lead to P-V or V-V interference. The builder did set the cams correctly to the recommended settings.
I understand, I measured piston to deck, Piston to valve and valve to valve even with ITR cams for my build. I figured out how wild I could go to let the tuner know and for my own knowledge. I decided to have the cams adjusted based on feedback from hytech and it didn’t disappoint, cleaned up the power down-low. They ended up being well with in the safe range at 4 deg adv intake and 2 deg rtd exhaust.
Re: Old school B series rebuild - FULL story
Also a fun exercise is to consider cams-> valves are moving @ 4500rpm when crank is 9k. Hold on to your timing belts and hope the heat doesn't cause too much change
-
- Posts: 1096
- Joined: Tue Aug 15, 2017 2:17 am
- Location: US
- Badge Number: 01-1322
Re: Old school B series rebuild - FULL story
What makes you choose Kinsler over something like Toda ITB's?white rocket wrote: ↑Wed Jan 23, 2019 6:34 pm
I'd love to see what a Kinsler ITB set-up with a plenum would do on your car. That was the next step for me before I sold mine. The mid-range would be insanity!!
ITR CDM 01-1322
2001 GS-R
I have badge #00-1259 in hand.
2001 GS-R
I have badge #00-1259 in hand.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests