My 2000 Integra LS build thread

[DC231]

Totally outside my experience but if you're hearing noise in the intake doesn't that seem to indicate valves aren't fully sealed?

Just depends really how everything's hooked up. It could be coming through the crankcase via pcv or valve cover vent into the intake manifold if it wasn't blocked off for testing.

[aw614]

Totally outside my experience but if you're hearing noise in the intake doesn't that seem to indicate valves aren't fully sealed?

If you pull the VC can you confirm there's a gap between the cam and the rocker (i.e. you can get a feeler gauge through) before you test the cylinder? This should help confirm if there's any pressure on the valve holding it open a little despite crankshaft alignment to TDC. Might even be worth backing off the lash adjustments to make sure there's no contact at all. Pulling the VC might also make it easier to access cylinders and locate any leaks.

https://dannysengineportal.com/cylinder ... lling-you/

Talking to a friend of mine he thinks that seems to be the case. I did have an incident maybe about 200 miles during my engine break-in, a timing belt cover bolt backed off and shredded part of the belt, car stalled and jumped timing (I was driving about 35mph in a higher gear, but I did not bend a valve between a consistent cold compression test and slapping a new belt on, I've been driving it since. Though I've always wondered if there was damage...

I'll probably be pulling the valve cover gasket off and double check the valve lash, TDC and rerun the leakdown.

Totally outside my experience but if you're hearing noise in the intake doesn't that seem to indicate valves aren't fully sealed?

Just depends really how everything's hooked up. It could be coming through the crankcase via pcv or valve cover vent into the intake manifold if it wasn't blocked off for testing.

I disconnected my PCV valve, pulled the intake tube and left the crankcase breather on. The breather itself did not exhibit any air hissing noises.

[aw614]

Update, the gsr head I have has some deep scratches on it and it had line honed and per the machine shop, they mention you could use it, but its a risk to take. And with the money I was going to put in it, I would probably be better off with a better head. If I was running a champ car or a GRM challenge car, I'd run that head as is and send it.

But as it is, I wouldnt run it on my mixed use car and with all the crazy stuff going on in the world and locally with the pandemic, I'll probably hold off for now. I'll see if I can find a bare gsr head locally or if more events get cancelled til fall, I'll probably just look into pulling my head and having it inspected.

[aw614]

Pulled the header off, it doesnt look like my valves are covered in oil so it seems the valve guides/seals on the exhaust side are probably ok...

Pictures, in no particular order, they all looked similar
'





I should mention pulling the header was PITA, when you have a koyo radiator, stock fans and the heatshield. Lazy to put that heatshield back in for now.

[aw614]

Current update: With everything uncertain, I might hold off on any engine/head stuff for a bit, just have the 4-1 header heatshield off for the foreseeable future for convenience.

I had a sketchy front wheel stud wouldnt engage enough threads with the spacers, decided to just change all the hubs and wheel bearings out as preventative maintenance. Also decided to go with the Acura TL stud route on all four wheels, I never really liked the extra long wheel studs with open ended lug nuts, so I found these to be the perfect compromise, they allow safer threads of engagement and I can use a closed ended lug nut on my SSRs.

For anyone that has a 4x100 honda I purchased these NTN hubs, and a stock size stud was a perfect fit without having to weld the stud to the hub. ARPs should also work
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Axle-Bear ... 2749.l2649
Not sure if NTN sells 5 lug rear hubs, but if so that could be a good option to explore as they are an oem supplier, but also considerable savings vs buying from acura.

Fronts, I just went with OEM wheel bearings and hubs and had a local shop install them as I couldn't get the axle nut off with my impact or breaker bar.

Did encounter the race on the driver side rear stuck to the spindle, but was able to get it off, the passenger rear came came off without a hitch. Kept my old front hubs and will be replacing the studs and keeping them as emergency spares to keep. Seems most people have had reasonable luck with them being reliable over the cheap generic hubs.

One question, anyone has tips on removing an old bearing race from a hub? Saw a few different methods on youtube, leaning towards hearing it vs using a grinder, just wondering what have others done.

[Stin1]

Ntn is the oem supplier for my 2000 civic. The ntn bearing was identical to the original.

[Little_Nolan]

I must know more about how you like your B8/GC combo. Your spring rates are very close to mine only one step higher: 425/375.

I just got B8s and was either going to run the GCs or switch to OEM springs on the 10mm lowered perch. Not sure yet.

[aw614]

I must know more about how you like your B8/GC combo. Your spring rates are very close to mine only one step higher: 425/375.

I just got B8s and was either going to run the GCs or switch to OEM springs on the 10mm lowered perch. Not sure yet.

Based on feel, I like them better than the Koni Yellow/GC OTS rates on my EK beater, where for some reason the Konis rode a lot worse for me especially in the rear for only being a 280lb spring, it is definitely firmer than the stock springs. IMO, I think it's a better street setup and I don't have complaints driving the car in a variety of different surfaces outside of my ride height being lower now vs the ITR springs. For not being adjustable, I never really felt the need to have adjustment knobs, and the Konis didn't really feel better in the rear for me on the EK.

On the track and for autocross, I need get familiar with them and adapt my driving to them since I only put them on this fall after having the ITR springs on for 5+ years and 30k miles. My friend who works at FCA in their vehicle dynamics dept felt they were a little underdamped in some of the bumpy/curb sections this past weekend, but nothing too bad (He also noticed the Koni/GC kit was underdamped for him on his s2000). One issue I've noticed for autocross is some abrupt bumps would unsettle the car and/or oscillate during accelerating. I've never tracked/autocrossed on honda specific konis to make a good comparison though.

[Little_Nolan]

Thanks for the in depth response and solid information. I was worried they might be over dampened, so its good to hear that my spring rates are slightly less I guess. I think I will throw on the stock springs and see how I like it first.

Did you have the stock ITR springs on the lower or higher perch - and did you need a spring compressor for install?

[aw614]

Thanks for the in depth response and solid information. I was worried they might be over dampened, so its good to hear that my spring rates are slightly less I guess. I think I will throw on the stock springs and see how I like it first.

Did you have the stock ITR springs on the lower or higher perch - and did you need a spring compressor for install?

I might be trying a 500lb front spring as I want to experiment with some stuff. From talking to Dave-ROR at local autocrosses, he said he had no issues with the rates and also liked the shocks. It was his past posts on why I wanted to give them a shot.

On the lower spring perch, you can install the rears without a spring compressor, you can push the top hat down enough to get the nut on. The fronts, when I first installed them I didn't use a spring compressor and I was able to install them by jacking the LCA with shock/spring/tophat and then bolt the nut on, but when I took it apart this past fall, I ended up using it b/c I had issues using that method. Not sure what happened there though as the ITR spring should have been short enough to compress via the jack and control arm...

It might be possible to have another person help push down on the shock to do the fronts, but I can't remember if so.