Type R Club of America

Small misc. update, if anyone has ever wondered about running a cabin air filter on their EM1, EK, DC, back in 2015 a friend of mine was talking about how the CRV had a cabin filter and was thinking of retrofitting it into his EG coupe using ek parts. (He retrofitted AC on his EG). What it looked like back then was the Civic and later integras (maybe 98 up?) didn't come with a cabin filter, but still retained the cabin filter door. The passenger airbag hardware prevents the the CRV cabin filter frame from fitting inside., and the door covering where the filter goes doesn't really come out, but you can still jam a cabin filter in there without the plastic frame. When it goes inside the box, the shape reforms back.

5 years later, I finally decided to check and replace the filter, and yes it was quite dirty with debris

No pictures, but if you are familiar with removing the glovebox, getting a filter inside there isn't too difficult and the benefits of having a cabin filter outweigh not having it. I also did it on my beater EK coupe.

Survived two track days at the FIRM with zero fuss. But did discover my driver side rear pad was wearing much faster than the passenger side. Went ahead and replaced the slide pins and am going to observe the wear from there. My guess is they may have worn at a quicker pace when I had issues with the slide pins seizing due to the grease I put in drying up.

I found out BFG Rival 1.5s are easy to overheat and while I use around 35 psi for autocross, 30 psi or so seemed far better at the track.

Oil consumption wasn't actually that bad. Did around 40 laps the first track day back in late April and only used half a quart, and around the same in May. Actually seems like it burns far less compared to autocrossing. I can do around 2 sessions with very minimal ol consumption, yet 6 minutes of autocross burned more. I'll see what happens next week since autocross is starting up again.

Some pictures from the event

Guess it's been a while and I should probably post some updates. Went to the Acura Honda Class meet in Orlando this past week, and have done two track days at the FIRM with Eibach Meet/Honda Meet. Always having minor issues with parts breaking, but overall car seems to do well.

Oct's event, the Mugen intake somehow rubbed through the rubber clutch line causing a leak after my second session, I still had pressure, so I just limped it home. Thanks to another driver, I did get to experience driving a K24 swap Integra and I really enjoyed that and can see why the swap is popular, on the track it doesn't feel much different from a B series motor, just a lot faster. The driver installed the electric power steering pump conversion which was really nice.

The event in Jan was far smoother, though somehow my power steering belt exploded in my afternoon session. Never found the belt lol.

Random pictures from the last few months: My main issue:
Highway oil consumption seems to be getting worse on the long 100 80-100 mile highway drives to the autocross and track events is showing a better gauge of consumption. Lost about half a quart just driving from Tampa to Orlando and back with cruising on the highway at 80 mph on I4. Prior consumption is a lot better in regular city driving where the speeds are kept below 70.

Now about rebuilding the motor. I have forged internals sitting, but talking to the engine builder I want to go with, he mentioned most forged motors seem to only last 40-50k miles due to the looser clearance motors. From others who have had forged internal motors, is this everyone's general experience? Older posts online about forged internals seem to have similar sentiments about this with regards to how long they last.

It seems that for na power goals going with an 81.5 P30/JDM P73 cast piston is almost just as reliable for longterm use vs going forged? I am happy with my current power levels of 177whp, I just want to burn less oil than I currently do and not worry about it as much. Having to clean my bumper a lot less would be nicer too...lol

I've put just over 20k on my motor that has always burned oil and it still feels every bit as powerful even with the consumption. But I just really want to tear down the current motor and see what is up with the consumption and keep it as a spare.

So my current plan is to rebuild the short block, and replace my current one, but do the following:
-Run the OEM 94-95/ITR heat exchanger/oil cooler.
New OEM water pump/oil pump
-Mugen oil pan
-Refresh head with new retainers/seals/guides. Is there a good option with retainers that anyone has used? What ever I have (I believe supertech) has held up fine and I don't mind going with them again.
-Switch to the CTR cams I have sitting and swapping out the gen 2 TODA cam gears for the Gen 1 Spoon cam gears.

I am not sure what else I am missing

FYI I have a spare ITR heat exchanger.

coolhandluke wrote: ↑Tue Mar 16, 2021 11:22 am FYI I have a spare ITR heat exchanger.

Thanks, the spare block was a 94-95 OBD1 block that came with it so I have the parts.

FYI for anyone using an OBD1 B18c1 block with the heat exchanger, the waterpipe is different from the ITR and later GSR waterpipes. There is an extra outlet that isn't on the b18c5. I'll take a picture later on.

Motor is done, haven't started it after the most recent autocross last weekend, but spark plugs 3 and 4 were covered in oil and I was getting misfires and more smoking out the exhaust. Went to the nearby auto parts store to replace the plugs to see if the misfires and to get me home and it was marginally better, but it felt like it was losing compression. Here is the video if it ever processes
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8xo4Ca8Eos

Want to tear down the short block when I get it pulled.

Have my spare block ready, currently weighing my options, had some conversations with an engine builder, but incase it falls through are there any reputable builders in the south east who can build a short block? Specially any that have done the GSR block with LS crank combo? Going with this route due to the availability of the B20/LS crank + I already have LS Golden Eagle Rods and Endyn pistons. I also don't mind mailing the bare block along with the rods and pistons. I just want to make sure the clearances and everything are correct.

im not sure i would trust the statistics of forum posts on longevity of a forged build. you might be getting a little confirmation bias in that, a motor with "stronger" internals is driven "harder" and therefor should last "less" then a stock built engine driven in stock conditions.

I would say that going either forged pistons or forged rods is a mistake, do either both or neither.

so for clearances, i dont see any difference between the same sized piston in forged vs cast. yes, theres going to be very minor expansion differences and the forged will probably deal with heat and any detonation a little better, but marginal. I think having correctly gapped rings and bearings is going to be more important for your build. Also endyn made some amazing tihngs, i wouldnt be afraid to use your rods/pistons.

there has been some talk about how well honda bearings last vs king or acl race, but i also think that goes back to harder driven engines vs not. There is something to how well a oem honda engine lasts, but you can get good mileage and abuse out of a well built aftermarket engine.

sorry i dont know any builders to recommend out south. you could always call hytech and have a chat with him, he does build engines but may be cost prohibitive with shipping.

This is the best video that I have seen explaining the pro and cons of forged pistons without reading a ton of stuff. The guy has some amazing explanations of the pros and cons of all sorts of engine topics. I wonder what his background is.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rN2ND_FPnUA

Honda is known for the highest silicon content in the pistons leading to excellent dimensional stability and thus excellent engine life. For my VW 4 banger motor rebuild, I am leaning towards just cast because I value longevity over absolute power. I do wish I could get hypereutectic pistons for it like hondas.

noahf wrote: ↑Sat May 29, 2021 10:41 pm im not sure i would trust the statistics of forum posts on longevity of a forged build. you might be getting a little confirmation bias in that, a motor with "stronger" internals is driven "harder" and therefor should last "less" then a stock built engine driven in stock conditions.

I would say that going either forged pistons or forged rods is a mistake, do either both or neither.

so for clearances, i dont see any difference between the same sized piston in forged vs cast. yes, theres going to be very minor expansion differences and the forged will probably deal with heat and any detonation a little better, but marginal. I think having correctly gapped rings and bearings is going to be more important for your build. Also endyn made some amazing tihngs, i wouldnt be afraid to use your rods/pistons.

there has been some talk about how well honda bearings last vs king or acl race, but i also think that goes back to harder driven engines vs not. There is something to how well a oem honda engine lasts, but you can get good mileage and abuse out of a well built aftermarket engine.

sorry i dont know any builders to recommend out south. you could always call hytech and have a chat with him, he does build engines but may be cost prohibitive with shipping.

Thanks, after much thinking the past few weeks, I've decided to go forward with using the Endyn pistons I have along with the forged LS rods.

I did end up getting a response from the builder, as he did announce on his facebook he was taking a vacation with his family during the month of May so his PMs were limited. Timeline to send the block to him is sometime mid to late June. The block is currently at my friend's garage awaiting a time we can both meet up to pick it up as it's about 40 minutes away from me.

shuttlepilot wrote: ↑Thu Jun 03, 2021 10:45 pm This is the best video that I have seen explaining the pro and cons of forged pistons without reading a ton of stuff. The guy has some amazing explanations of the pros and cons of all sorts of engine topics. I wonder what his background is.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rN2ND_FPnUA

Honda is known for the highest silicon content in the pistons leading to excellent dimensional stability and thus excellent engine life. For my VW 4 banger motor rebuild, I am leaning towards just cast because I value longevity over absolute power. I do wish I could get hypereutectic pistons for it like hondas.

Oh man another VW owner, what are you building? 4 cylinder VW rebuild, Mk1 to Mk3 build? lol

The video was great and cleared a lot of the misconceptions I had. Looking at old H-T posts from Endyn, seems their NA pistons are 4032 forged, which sound perfect for my uses.

Its just a rebuild of my MK3 golf. It is my first stick shift car and it is so charming, I have to save it. I used it as a winter beater too long and it is hurting right now with rusty rockers and floor and a worn out engine. I miss not being able to drive that car.
What VW did you have?