Type R Club of America

Just popped back into this thread and realized how far behind I am! Car has been together and driving since August. I'm still working on finishing up some body panels with paint, but other than that it's just about there. I'll try and get some time tonight to post some pictures from my phone for a good update!

Picked up an eg fuel sending unit with a banjo bolt connection rather than a barb connection for the fuel feed. Made it easier to run the entire line out of the braided hose. Here is one of the probably 8 times I ended up having to drop the subframe while running the brake lines, fuel lines, re-doing the brake lines in stainless, cutting in the grommet for the shifter cables and also the grommet for the engine harness. Fortunately doing it with a 2 post and this tall jack stand made it super easy for me to knock it out without any help. This is the grommet I picked up from Checkerd Sports for the engine harness. Wanted to do a fancy mil-spec connector, but didn't want to put out the coin for one of those harnesses. Pretty pleased with how these lines turned out under the car. I ended up putting some rivet nuts into the floor to add a couple more clamps to hold the lines up nice and tight. I mentioned it before, but putting in rivet nuts get addicting! Got the "new-to-me" jdm itr gas tank put up after all the brake and fuel lines were ran. I bought new hangers but the tank ffrom jdm ohio came with some in really good shape so I was able to put the new tank straps into my spares bin. Here's how the brake lines turned out under the dash after the rear bulkheads were put in the firewall. I'm really happy with the flex lines. Made getting the heater and blower boxes back in easier without having to worry about rubbing hardlines. Fuel an lines hooked up. I ended up slipping the return line over the barb for a short while. The conversion fitting from barb female to an was backordered for the longest time. If anyone ever wants to make brake lines, this flare tool is a must. I had a cheap harbor freight flare tool that worked okay for regular steel lines. When it came to stainless, that tool wouldn't even begin to make a decent flare. Ordered this off amazon (eastwood and summit have very similar tools as well). I also bought the single flare die for this tool to make the flares on the rear line firewall an bulkheads. Flares turned out awesome on the lines, and ended with 0 leaks after I was finished. Was pretty pumped with that after this was the first time I'd replaced/made every brake line on a car.

To try and not have real janky looking lines with hand straightening from unrolling the spool, I ordered this line straightener as well. My lines are far from perfect as far as bends and how they fit. It's definitely an art getting the line straight, bent and flared with the fitting in place. Pretty happy with how these rear lines turned out. I'm much happier with the looks of stainless vs. the plain steel lines as well. I ended up using little line clamps as well to hold all the brake lines in place. The clamps are bolted to the frame rail underbody using... Rivet nuts! haha! Final product of where the rears go up and connect to the firewall bulkheads. I wish I was able to find some double line holders, but the only ones available were too wide where they stuck below the bottom of the frame rail (which I didn't want to run that risk). I ended up bending each line to flow around the clamps for the other lines. Definitely custom looking, which I like. Flare tool that made making the flares so quick and easy. Super easy to have consistent nice flares. Here's the brake booster vacuum line I made up. And here it is after I tapped and connected it to the underside of the rbc manifold. Didn't want the ugly barb connector sticking up from the top of the manifold. So I drilled and tapped that port and put an npt plug in its place. Everything under the dash making its way back into the car. Pretty dissappointed with the k-tuned heater hoses. They sent 2 of the same hoses and it was too short for the one side. I ended up using a short piece of the stock hose and a barb connector to tie in the second line. I'd like to eventually go back and clean this up a bit more.

Now that the car was getting closer to being able to start, I decided to get back to the body work side and prep doors, fenders and the hatch for paint. Here are the pieces after being prepped and getting ready to get some primer. Primer sealer applied Base color applied Really happy with how the clear flowed out fairly flat for minimal prep on the back sides of the panels. Am I crazy for base/clearing where interior panels will clean up? Maybe, but it would have driven me nuts to know the car wasn't all 1 color. Fenders needed some massaging after we put them in primer. Gotta thank my friends dad for all the help. He's insanely good at body work, and is incredibly picky so he's one person I know will get it as good as it can be. Hinges and fender brackets hung and ready for paint. Just about ready to start hitting the outside panels with primer surfacer. Probably my favorite part of this whole build now. I decided to bring my son with me the night we sprayed these, and had him shoot some primer on the fenders. Hopefully this car will go to him some day!

Here's everything with the final coat of primer sealer, just before color started. Base coat on The boss lady inspecting my work the next morning Ended up prepping the front grill and spraying it with those panels as well. It was silver previously, and you could see a faint silver line in the corner of the black plastic after the tape was removed. You'll see my solution for this a little later on. Rear hatch after some wet sanding and polishing. Door after wet sand and quick polish. Everything un-masked and pretty much finished. Taped of the fresh red and left the very edge of the red exposed enough where I could see the faint silver line left from the old coler. I ended up getting a can of plastic auto trim paint and re-painted the black trim. Turned out really nice and saved me from re-spraying the grill to fix that silver line!

Back to getting this thing running! Subframe going up for (I think) the final time. Final product of the brake lines and fuel lines under the car. E-brake cables are installed. Underdash wiring going on here. What a mess. Really wish I could go with some kind of pdm solution that would clean this up, but I want to maintain too many features to use a pdm system (without getting insanely expensive). Trying to sort out the headlight wiring and getting it connected and ran under the dash. o2 sensor ran and installed in the header (I ended up getting an ASP replica header). So I didn't realize the fuel pump connecter was part of the old fuel tank harness, that was scrapped with the old tank. So I picked up an RS fuel pump harness off ebay, and found a small business in NJ that sells connectors for the purpose of restoring old motorcycles. He had the correct corresponding connector that I ended up getting and crimped on the proper pins and got the fuel pump problem solved. And finally got around to installing the sunroof assembly with the help of a friend.

Transporting all the finished panels from the paint booth garage to the shop where the car is stored/worked on. Got all the panels put on and lined up fairly well. After installing glass in the doors and everything else, they settled some, so they need tweaked still yet. E-brake seals popped into the floor and finished up. Axles put in. Brake calipers are all rebuilt, put in and bled the system. And a factory intake air temp sensor drilled and installed into the hybrid racing intake arm.

After getting the underdash put back together, started on the doors and window assemblies. You cannot buy new window track assemblies so I had to freshen these up. Bought OEM honda shin etsu grease. That stuff is amazing! Final result after very little effort. A good buddy is a master tech at a local honda dealership and hooked it up with new OEM fluids. Decided to wet sand and buff the fenders on the car to have them more solid when doing the work. New Fuel neck gasket (accidently threw the old one away with the old filler neck). Post wet sand and buff on the front fenders. And the hatch got hit again once it was on the car as well. And finally bought some tires on clearance for the volks that have been sitting for years.

Ordered ground lines for the car, but they ended up being too short for where I had everything located. Ended up buying 13ft. of battery cable and some clamp on ring connectors and made new myself. Wish I would have realized how easy/cheap this option was to begin with. Tires mounted by a good buddy of mine who runs a little race prep shop on the side (Tarmac88). He also races in Gridlife GLTC as well. Bringing the laptop and kpro over with hopes to soon turn the key! Volks mounted for the first time! Love how this combo turned out! Mocking up the mugen gen 1! Figuring out all my conversion harness connections Ended up adding connecters for the splice wires to keep it a little cleaner and make everything easy to tear down for the future for whatever reason. We have fuel pressure! And since I put a type s oil pump in the motor, I was paranoid about proper oil pressure, so I bought a sandwich plate to hook up an oil pressure gate just temporarily to make sure everything was good. And I definitely have oil pressure!

Fan switch in and connected. Had some trouble with the k tuned sensors that had some extra burs on the plastic. They wouldn't snap into the connector. After figuring out the issue a file solved it pretty quick. Everything all finished up and the header starting to get some color after startup/heat cycles. I did end up having issues with my wireworx headlight tuck in a box kit. No matter what I tried I couldn't get power to the fan. After not being a huge fan of how they tell you to spool up the passenger stock headlight and tuck it under the dash, I tore out the wireworx harness and got all my stock stuff routed. Fan finally got power after that and no more extra wires spooled up under the dash. Driver window in and all my new door moldings installed. Picked up a chase bays coolant overflow. Was able to use all an fittings and braided hose for this setup which I was really happy to match the fuel lines. Final product. Time to clean it up before my dyno appointment. All cleaned up and ready to load up the next morning for the dyno! Maiden voyage down the street. The s2k clutch master adjustment was totally out the wrong was so it jerked around like crazy the first drive. Quick adjustment and that was fixed. Interior all cleaned up! Bay all cleaned up!