Type R Club of America

aklackner wrote: ↑Sat Feb 15, 2020 6:05 pm https://vimeo.com/391736387

Ran into an issue pretty quick though. Not sure how I missed it but PO hacked up the fan switch connector, only one wire was actually connected to the switch. Shorted the switch wires and confirmed the fan turns on. I’ll need to do some quick wiring but not a major issue.

The best news is no Mil on the oem (immo. bypassed) ecu!

Amazing work my friend!!!

No CEL on the OG ECU is also great news... keep up the good work as it's very inspirational to more than just me I hope

Hey check PM's when you have a sec!

Thanks
Dc2

When watching the video the scene from weird science where the boys create the girl on the computer and the line “she’s alive “ comes to mind. Great work!

Dc2-ProductionS wrote:Hey check PM's when you have a sec!

Thanks
Dc2

Sorry, I meant to reply but been didn’t make it happen for some reason.

I’m still a bit off installing the side plastics and the plastics themselves are stored where I don’t have quick access.

Sounds amazing man! Congrats!!!

Ugh, so I mounted up my door speakers wired the 4 channel amp, played with the stereo, ran into idle issues, tore apart electrical (even though idle issues are almost certainly a vacuum leak), replaced the fan switch, canceled a trip to India last minute, reconnected electrical, now I’m playing with making a collage just to be for Homecoming registration .

4 channel amp wiring


Not really happy with either of these so will probably keep playing with something more stylistic instead of doing real work on the car.

Looking great dude

If you have a boost gauge is it sitting steady at 20 on vacuum when idling? Or is it shakey or under 20?

So I think this project has me brain dead, that’s the only excuse I can think for what I found today.



This was a gasket that I bought on eBay, I could have sworn I checked it when I got it but clearly not.

So.... looks like I need to pull the blower and use Hondabond (which seems to be the prevailing guidance) to make the seal between the blower and manifold. Looks like at a minimum I’ll have to pull the fuel rail to get back at the mount bolts.
Hopefully that’s the only leak.

Yeah most JRSC people don't use a gasket between the blower and manifold just silicone

Woot! I got the blower re-installed with the blower sealed to manifold with hondabond (instead of an incorrect gasket), swapped the heater and bypass hoses (to the correct positions), also identified the bypass valve hose seemed to have a slight leak so changed that out, and now the car starts right up and idles perfectly! Idles at about 600-700rpm.

It seemed to take a long time for the T-stat to open but did eventually and then fan (AC needs to be charged so only the main will run) cycled as expected too.

This time I used an obdlink sx cable on my laptop to verify throttle position was correct and stable, Coolant temp as the car warmed up, and intake temps as well. Sitting at idle the intake temp does get pretty warm but I guess you'd expect that since there isn't much air moving to cool it down. Coolant temp stayed almost exactly at 180F once I got it up.

Next steps will be to get the additional oil temp and pressure sensors wired up to the firewall, then I'll start working on completing interior wiring and getting everything closed up.