Type R Club of America

Took a break from the ITR today, to do work a friend had asked me to do for his S2k after he saw my battery.

The InduraPower 120 LiFePO4 I’m running wasn’t enough for his stereo setup so we got the 220 in.


I cut up a spare tray, so he can always go back to an OEM battery.


Set some rivet nuts to mount the InduraPower mount


Added rivet nuts to the InduraPower mount
so you don’t have to hold a nut to fasten the mount.

For the user who posted about slow rolling windows, sometimes it's just a matter of adding the Honda lube to the rubber parts of the window mechanism and it will run smoothly again. I forgot what the lube is called, I have it lying around, and learned about it here on iTRCA. I used it on my gs-r and now the windows operate much better.

Shin-Etsu grease it’s great stuff!

I have a plea for help up in general topics but will document here too.

I ran into yet another “surprise” issue with 01-0386. The horn wasn’t working. I knew the horn connector had been cut from the harness by the right blinker. I finally wired it up yesterday but the horn switch still didn’t work. After some testing I figured out the clockspring was faulty. Yep the clockspring (under SRS unit on parts catalog) is discontinued.

After confirming with continuity tests, I got the clockspring out and popped it open
Yep no doubt it’s bad, the ribbon is cracked into 2 pieces. This also may explain why I continue to have an SRS light since it means the driver’s air bag circuit was open.

Sorta pissed the seller didn’t disclose any of this since and it seems like a safety issue as I’ve been working very close quarters to the airbag on an open circuit!

At this point I have a used clockspring from a Del Sol (which shows the same part number as the ITR), if functional and as advertised this should get me back to original.

Additionally, since I’m planning to use a JDM ITR steering wheel and this requires adjustments to the clockspring, I’m attempting to order a clockspring from a 99-00 civic DX/CX which appears it’s still available new and may natively be compatible with the JDM ITR wheel?

After pulling the faulty original apart it’s possible that even if direct replacement doesn’t work out I may be able to place guts of a similar clockspring into the original ITR housing. So now it’s a waiting game but I’m more confident I’ll have a workable solution and cautiously optimistic this will resolve the SRS light too.

Yikes, that sounds scary & frustrating. I never ran a JDM DC2 SRS wheel but I know others in the community that have, I will forward this link and ask them to chime in.

Honda discontinuing safety parts.

I used the stock reel with the Jdm srs wheel. If it helps here’s a diy I did a long time ago. https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-int ... l-1875083/

This install was for my LS, but it’s the same when doing it on the itr minus the cruise control stuff.

BLacK FirE wrote:I used the stock reel with the Jdm srs wheel. If it helps here’s a diy I did a long time ago. https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-int ... l-1875083/

This install was for my LS, but it’s the same when doing it on the itr minus the cruise control stuff.

Thanks so much, your article was a reference I started with, very helpful.

Unfortunately, my clockspring is bad, so I’ll need to replace. I’m replacing the usdm wheel now since it’s all apart to replace the clockspring. So complicating the situation by trying to find a maximal solution.

It looks like a 99-00 Civic clockspring is plug and play with the JDM ITR SRS wheel, but if I need to grab a used Integra clockspring:
Is there anything to be concerned/wary of at the limits (I.e. will full lock strain the clockspring)?

The new clockspring went in today!
I went ahead and installed the JDM ITR SRS steering wheel, airbag is mounted and connected.

Horn now works! SRS light is clear after clearing memory. Making progress.



Both doors are now buttoned up. Gas door release and cover are mounted. The front seatbelts are bolted in. The door sills are in place. It’s continuing to come together!

Got to have a bit of fun today, now that the steering wheel, airbag, and horn are sorted I started wiring up my Ecliptech P2+ (multi-function shift light). Primarily a shift light and digital tach, it also has programmable inputs and outputs. Right now I’ll only be using one of the inputs to show a warning when WMI tank is low.



Since this unit has the ability to detect the tach signal if anyone ever wondered it shows the ecu signal pulses twice per rpm, which would seem to indicate the signal is aligned to the crank not the cams? This is connected at the gauge cluster D13 pin for tach signal.

The center console isn’t ready to go in yet but getting bits cleaned up and test fit.

I had planned to run the circuit hero shifter plate but the JDM ITR shift boot worked really well once I took off the plastic top. The way the pleather is formed it fits the Hybrid racing shifter with a slight stretch so looks natural.