Re: Dumb, Stubborn, and bound to end up penniless…….
Posted: Fri Dec 11, 2020 6:54 pm
Type R Club of America
https://www.typerclub.org/forums/
Dumb, Stubborn, and bound to end up penniless…….
Page 54 of 84
Re: Dumb, Stubborn, and bound to end up penniless…….
Posted: Sat Dec 12, 2020 10:40 pm
Closing things up
Re: Dumb, Stubborn, and bound to end up penniless…….
Posted: Sun Dec 13, 2020 12:55 pm
You gonna do a rear strut bar?
Re: Dumb, Stubborn, and bound to end up penniless…….
Posted: Sun Dec 13, 2020 2:16 pm
That looks so clean . Crazy that you can’t even see what is under. Well worth the wait ,
Re: Dumb, Stubborn, and bound to end up penniless…….
Posted: Sun Dec 13, 2020 3:22 pm
The plan is to re-use the bar I had in the LS. It’s an ITR front bar with replica ends from Tegiwa that convert it to the OEM JDM rear style.
Re: Dumb, Stubborn, and bound to end up penniless…….
Posted: Sun Dec 13, 2020 6:22 pm
What do you think of the construction of those ends? I have a set 4 my 2001 and I personally thought they were sorta flimsy.
Re: Dumb, Stubborn, and bound to end up penniless…….
Posted: Sun Dec 13, 2020 8:34 pm
Yeah, IDK it’s strong enough to bear my weight (let’s just say 200+lbs ) when fastened so that’s something.
I really like the design of the Honda front bar, eliminating pivots common on aftermarket bars. It’s well thought through, so I’m willing to assume they had a reasonable rear design.
Obviously the JDM rear bar is a compromise to avoid extensive modification to the side panels, which I appreciate. It also retains more functional hatch space than a lower more direct bars. In my case the WMI tank wouldn’t fit as I planned with a lower bar. The 1/4” alum. plate I’m using to mount the tank is fastened into the frame with M8 hardware pretty well in combination with the upper bar I’m guessing I’m at least no worse than I’d be with a direct (Cusco/Mugen) bar.
Could the Honda rear bar be better sure, but I think it’s overall a reasonable compromise, and the only bar that would work for me given the WMI tank.
I really like the design of the Honda front bar, eliminating pivots common on aftermarket bars. It’s well thought through, so I’m willing to assume they had a reasonable rear design.
Obviously the JDM rear bar is a compromise to avoid extensive modification to the side panels, which I appreciate. It also retains more functional hatch space than a lower more direct bars. In my case the WMI tank wouldn’t fit as I planned with a lower bar. The 1/4” alum. plate I’m using to mount the tank is fastened into the frame with M8 hardware pretty well in combination with the upper bar I’m guessing I’m at least no worse than I’d be with a direct (Cusco/Mugen) bar.
Could the Honda rear bar be better sure, but I think it’s overall a reasonable compromise, and the only bar that would work for me given the WMI tank.
Re: Dumb, Stubborn, and bound to end up penniless…….
Posted: Wed Dec 16, 2020 2:06 pm
Years ago my brother had a front and rear knock off . They looked identical. When you grabbed the bars and could move them with your wrists you could tell . I can’t recall if the aluminum or steel was flexing.
Re: Dumb, Stubborn, and bound to end up penniless…….
Posted: Wed Dec 16, 2020 2:07 pm
Re: Dumb, Stubborn, and bound to end up penniless…….
Posted: Sat Dec 19, 2020 7:16 pm
I think the interior is buttoned up for now!
A new hatch actuator went in this afternoon and so I was able to close up the hatch plastics.
I’ll do another cleaning on everything now that I’m not climbing in and out continually but it’s looking really good at this point.
In the next couple days I’ll swap in the pci F. UCAs, pull the front bumper to get the fender brackets in, then get the front reassembled with wheel well liners. Then it should be ready to start registration and inspections.
A new hatch actuator went in this afternoon and so I was able to close up the hatch plastics.
I’ll do another cleaning on everything now that I’m not climbing in and out continually but it’s looking really good at this point.
In the next couple days I’ll swap in the pci F. UCAs, pull the front bumper to get the fender brackets in, then get the front reassembled with wheel well liners. Then it should be ready to start registration and inspections.