Type R Club of America

I went out for a little longer drive.
No engine codes so far
Onboard monitoring no longer shows a Tid $27 fail and shows a $26 (which should also be Evap) pass under component 01
All emissions tests look like they are now clear except Evap, so I’m thinking it just needs some clean cycles to clear the evap testing.

There are still some weird ghosts I’ll need to figure out that might have something to do with electrical or maybe the AC clutch. Mainly some hesitation/shudder that I noticed just below 4k when easing on the throttle after cruising? I didn’t notice it until I had the AC on cruising on the freeway (~4k rpm). I’m hoping I can get the remaining emissions cleared to get inspection done then I’ll have more freedom without the risk of throwing a code or clearing emissions monitoring progress. In the mean time I’ll try to do some logging and run through the wiring I’ve done to see if anything jumps out.

The lug nuts look good and fit well with your TEs. I think extended lug nuts work well on wheels where the lug nut hole goes in deep. I am curious to see how well the coating holds up over time especially if you end up rotating and swapping wheels frequently.

I might have missed it, but all of your EVAP components were sourced new?

aw614 wrote:The lug nuts look good and fit well with your TEs. I think extended lug nuts work well on wheels where the lug nut hole goes in deep. I am curious to see how well the coating holds up over time especially if you end up rotating and swapping wheels frequently.

I might have missed it, but all of your EVAP components were sourced new?

Thanks the coating on the lugs seems much more bonded to the metal underneath so I suspect they’ll hold up better than the last set that started to flake.

Not sure if I’ll be doing a lot of swapping of the wheels I guess at this point I’m planning to mainly run the TE37s but I still manage to need to pull things apart enough to certainly to be able to soon speak to durability over many cycles.

With the exception of the charcoal can itself I think the rest of the evap system was new so I’m hoping I don’t run into additional issues with the equipment. At this point the monitoring seems to be happier. At least I’m not seeing any further failures reported in mode$06.

I did however find that the main engine ground on top of the thermostat was a bit loose. I snugged that down and had a very fun test drive but kept it to a few miles on surface streets. To me it seemed like it had a positive effect but it’s hard to say if that was real or imagined.

Wahooo!


I have an apt tomorrow for smog inspection. If all goes well I can complete registration. Since all onboard monitoring reads pass off the ecu I think it should be relatively straightforward. I’ll go through all my paperwork and make sure I have the right EO stuff together in case there’s any question.

Having slight separation anxiety and generally thin patience, 01-0386 has been at the shop for 2 days now while they work on smog certification.

I dropped it off with a folder of full text printed of every applicable Exemption Order and full Jackson install instructions showing graphics of components carb number for the kit, and appropriate timing. CARB stickers (including JRSC) are all also either present on the hood or permanently fixed on relevant parts.

So far after 2 days they have determined the motor is a b18.

To be fair they mostly deal with older Porsches and Mustangs, and have been unexpected busy.

They seem like they are trying to get through it (for which I’ve been effusively grateful) but have finally brought up the state referee, in the context that I can’t go until someone would actually send me. I’ve made sure to communicate that I’m both happy to go that route and confident they would certify if someone does open that door. So we’ll see.

Complicating the whole thing is that the State system seems to have been down and they are unable to connect to read the ecu into they system, which I feel like they would gladly do just to be done with me.

I was quite behind, you have been tackling some projects and conquering gremlins. Am I presuming correctly that the FMU is required to clear state smog or is it a stepping stone towards tuning via Hondata, etc.?

The shop process sounds frustrating and stressful, goodluck!

coolhandluke wrote:I was quite behind, you have been tackling some projects and conquering gremlins. Am I presuming correctly that the FMU is required to clear state smog or is it a stepping stone towards tuning via Hondata, etc.?

The shop process sounds frustrating and stressful, goodluck!

Yeah FMU is to clear CARB. Hondata ecu on the shelf. Once I have my smog cert I’m off to Church.

All part of the process.

This is actually the second shop I’ve been to. The one I’ve been working to make friends with for 3 years and take all my cars too turned me down, wouldn’t even try. Almost got in trouble over a modified Subaru and didn’t want the attention. So I’m actually happy that this shop is trying to working through it. In a very significant way I did this to myself. I could have kept NA/100% OEM for initial inspection.

I may make a run over tomorrow later in the afternoon if they are still concerned and offer to take the owner through everything to see if that will help.

aklackner wrote: ↑Wed Jan 20, 2021 8:14 pm

coolhandluke wrote:I was quite behind, you have been tackling some projects and conquering gremlins. Am I presuming correctly that the FMU is required to clear state smog or is it a stepping stone towards tuning via Hondata, etc.?

The shop process sounds frustrating and stressful, goodluck!

Yeah FMU is to clear CARB. Hondata ecu on the shelf. Once I have my smog cert I’m off to Church....

Ahhh that helps my understanding. I totally agree with those moves.

Best wishes with the shop signing off.

Passed inspection and back home!

congrats!