Type R Club of America

aklackner wrote: ↑Thu Sep 16, 2021 12:44 pm Just a universal weather-tech trunk mat.

Has nice pattern to cut to shape clean. It was maybe $40 at Target.

This one sat on top of the wrecked LS shell to help keep the cover in place for a couple years but cleaned up great, so it’s incredibly durable too.

Taking the ITR out to Honda Homecoming was a real boost. I was a big ball of nerves since I hadn’t driven it more than a few miles at once and the meet point for the mandatory caravan was about 100 mi for me.

https://vimeo.com/612295701/041ffdaa06

01-0386 did a great job for me and it’s inspired me to take the next step towards the project goal. I’ve booked a two day driving school at Willow Springs October 10-11th.

This has reminded me though that there are still many items I want to close out:
Finish Oil press., Oil Temp, and Boost sensors
Finish WMI to decrease odds of detonation
Install kingpin machine outlaw compliance bearings
Install Honed brake air guides
Oil change (Redline 40wt will go in.

Time is short so I’ve tried to get going. So far I have the analog sensors wired and configured in RaceCapture. But I still need to loom the wiring.


In getting the oil temp sensor wired I also discovered that the right side trans. Seal was leaking again, I think this goes back to the RSX-S axels I’m running so I ordered a 2.9 DSS set with road racing mods. In the mean time I pulled the current axel and made some adjustments that I think may help in the short term, since I won’t get the DSS shafts for over a month. This also has the benefit of fresh MTF.

Tomorrow I have an appointment to get a bung for the WMI welded into the intake are so that system can move forward then too.

aklackner wrote: ↑Wed Sep 22, 2021 10:59 pm Taking the ITR out to Honda Homecoming was a real boost. I was a big ball of nerves since I hadn’t driven it more than a few miles at once and the meet point for the mandatory caravan was about 100 mi for me...

Brave! I remember my "first" drive in my rebuild, but it was around town. It was a blast to see the odometer finally move after two+ years. I'm glad you were able to finally (and successfully) enjoy the car.

DSS - I ran them for 10yrs, only had to rebuild the boots twice. I recently switched to Raxles "VIR" spec per AssPenny's rec. Both are quality pieces.

Trying to keep things rolling:

Kingpin compliance bearings are in.


You can see how clean the high flow cat turned out.

WMI tank and lines are all in but still needs some wiring connected and I need to fill the tank. Set up for 4 gal/hr to kick on at 2psi (jrsc should make about 4psi)





Next will be to get the under panels back up and install the brake air diverters

I don’t expect to keep these on the car full time but my hope is they will help minimize issues with heat on the cv joints and brakes some on track.

I plan to try to get them fitted up today and check clearances. They have two brackets (upper and lower) which pinch the LCA where it forks towards the compliance bushing.



https://honeddevelopments.com/wp-conte ... ns-002.pdf

Oh very nice, enjoy those Kingpin Machine bits, they are works of art. Top notch form and function, which is rare. The install looks tight with that AN line as well, that doesn't look fun.

coolhandluke wrote:Oh very nice, enjoy those Kingpin Machine bits, they are works of art. Top notch form and function, which is rare. The install looks tight with that AN line as well, that doesn't look fun.

The clearance comes up tight there but more with the chassis, just enough to get a wrench over the nut but that’s all you need. The hose can be moved around some but still leaves enough clearance for my wrenches. When you drop the ARB the whole compliance arm complete with bearing will slide out. With the bearing it’s probably better to tighten it down off the car so it’s easier to torque or you could use a crowfoot once it’s in place

Honed Brake air guides in:
Install could be better but allows a lot a adjustment to get positioned right. Once dialed in it’s clear it will significantly increase air flow into the center of the rotors which is ideal for the racing brake 2 piece rotors.

Pics on the ground

Ok so I’ll admit I’ve always been interested in the concept. I realize that if it was actually functional you’d probably see them in production designs but the idea that you could basically eliminate engine movement while while still isolating the engine vibrations with rubber mounts seems like a holy grail of sorts.

Since Fabtech recommended removal of the header outlet donut gasket to ensure leak free exhaust connection, the JRSC delivers additional torque, and I’m running re-enforced but rubber mounts I figured I’d give an engine damper a try.

The install takes a bit of puzzling but ultimately once you sort out where everything goes it’s pretty straightforward. I opted to run the hard poly inserts but without adding any pre-tension. In theory this should minimize vibration transmission at idle but limit motor movement.

Here is the NRG unit mounted up.