Type R Club of America

Out for a short test drive today. Pleasantly surprised the torque damper seems to have made a significant improvement.

Unfortunately I had a high idle issue, seems to be either the throttle cable was over tensioned or the TB itself is sticking. Loosened the throttle cable and will get it out again as soon as I can.

Repacking the axle seal appears to have resolved the leak there.

With the RaceCapture wired up with oil temp and boost sensors I was able to see I was making about 5psi peak from the JRSC and oil was running stable about 210f (measured in the pan).

Now I’d need to try to get it out with less traffic and for a bit longer drive to see how it goes.

Out for a short test drive today. Pleasantly surprised the torque damper seems to have made a significant improvement.

Unfortunately I had a high idle issue, seems to be either the throttle cable was over tensioned or the TB itself is sticking. Loosened the throttle cable and will get it out again as soon as I can.

Repacking the axle seal appears to have resolved the leak there.

With the RaceCapture wired up with oil temp and boost sensors I was able to see I was making about 5psi peak from the JRSC and oil was running stable about 210f (measured in the pan).

Now I’d need to try to get it out with less traffic and for a bit longer drive to see how it goes.


Update:
Just got back from a a quick but great drive. The throttle issue seems resolved with less tension on the cable. No more high idle right where it’s supposed to be in all states (lights or AC or on/off, fans on/off)

5psi seems plenty and the car handles it very well. Oil temp topped out at 226f and dropped quickly as I backed off. Still planning to run Redline 40wt for Willow Springs but probably not necessary.

Well not really something I had planned originally but the pedal set seems very high I ordered one of these checkered sports heel plates to see if it would help get my ankle to a more comfortable angle.

Needs a test drive yet but feels like it’s going to make help out a lot.



Even if it is one more step closer to a “driver’s car” at 194,000mi on the clock it was never a resale value project. Still planning to fight the urge to do a cage or anything requiring more extreme modifications.

How do you like the sound of the greddy exhaust?

Another test drive, loving the heel plate. Huge drivability improvement.

Unfortunately, I also found out what can happen when the retainer screw backs out of the rotor.






Initially a check engine light flashed but then went away. I’m guessing this is when the screw actually knocked out. Although the check engine light went away it sounded unhappy intermittently. Incredibly the car drove home. I immediately pulled codes and found a p1399. Then looked that up and found it being generally associated with distributor issues. Popped the cap and things clearly didn’t look right.

New cap and rotor on order. Also ordered a whole new distributor, expedited from Japan, to have on hand.

Dave7CDMTYPER wrote:How do you like the sound of the greddy exhaust?

Nice sound but pretty loud, it’s geared towards turbo K swaps, I pretty sure at 5-6psi I don’t need a 3”. I’ll probably have my Mugen twin loop modified to get rid of the 54mm section of B pipe then run that.

Excellent choice, mugen twin loop is the best imo.

Use blue loctite on the rotor . What is part number on the distributor you ordered?

Stin1 wrote:Use blue loctite on the rotor . What is part number on the distributor you ordered?

30100-P73-A02

Under the car again today to check on a couple things…

the transmission is still leaking at the right axle seal. Looks like I’ll need to rent a car for the Willow Springs trip. It was worth the effort to try to make it happen in 01-386 but at least it’s a lot less to worry about now. The leak isn’t bad enough to prevent me from taking it out on some local drives and getting more comfortable with it though. Once I get the new shafts in there will be track time and I’ll have a bit more understanding of what I’m doing.

I’ve also been bugged about pretty significant rattling from the shifter. It looks like it’s the Hybrid Racing unit itself. There’s a sleeve between the shift rod and a ball bearing. This is the sleeve used to allow the rod to be adjusted up and down (relative to the pivot) to make shift movement shorter or longer. The sleeve is held in place (in the ball bearing) by a retainer ring on the sleeve below the bearing. At least on my shifter I have enough play there (maybe ~1mm) so it’s creating rattling between the sleeve and the bearing, basically bouncing up and down with vibrations.

I’ll call hybrid to see what they say but think I may end up returning to an OEM or at least fixed length shifter since the noise is an undesirable distraction. Maybe if I was running solid mounts it would be less of an issue but if I don’t get rpms matched on a shift it makes a pretty bad knocking as the motor pushes the rod around and the retainer bangs back and forth on the bearing.