Type R Club of America

noahf wrote:damn what a crazy week for updates! i hope the engine material is just normal break in stuff. how many oil changes have you done? lets hope its just break in stuff. and the pci upgrades, whats different vs stock pci spherical bushings?

Better hold on just the start of the updates planned this week Had to start the spare parts give away to make some room to get to work.

On the oil filter, not a lot I can do but hope for the best and watch closely. If something is up with my motor it’s just gonna be another opportunity to do something billet, I mean stupid, can I mean both

To actually answer your questions:

If my notes are right block has seen somewhere around 5000mi (but that seems high based on amount of time it was actually in use in the LS) since it came out of Honda’s box. So naturally there are a handful of oil changes there but I pulled the head off to swap from Mugen to OEM HG and cleaned accumulated carbon off the pistons, valves, combustion chamber, and installed toda upgraded oil pump gear in new oil pump, before it went into the ITR and the JRSC kit went on. Since that it’s had at least 3 oil changes over pretty minimal mileage maybe a total of ~600mi primarily trips to Homecoming (<300mi) and Willow Springs (<300mi w/ <2hrs on track). Oil was changed before and after Willow Springs and both filters show similar particulate. This doesn’t exactly make me feel great about the idea this is still break in or that what remains would be visible. For now I’ll commit to monitor closely and look for possible sources as I work with it. If something major comes of it there are options it may not be Honda BNIB or even CARB compliant. Fortunately I’m not dependent on the car and if a choice is forced streets are looking more and more like the optional side of my equation.

The Kingpin upgrade includes NMB aerospace bearings which should at least wear better than the originals from PCI. Ryan turned me on this upgrade and the Kingpin compliance bearings. I just put my PCI arms in before getting the upgrade and was resisting the idea of having the suspension apart while I sent parts off (one of the last things I mailed took me over a year to actually ship). When I saw Kingpin could just send upgraded blocks it was a no brainer for me. To my feel the bearing from Kingpin have a lighter and smoother feel (truly lubricated) than, where the bearings that came on my PCI arms took some force to articulate from a stopped position(sort of as if they were sticking in the Teflon lining, not that this would have any observable impact within experienced forces).

The Willow Springs trip was a landmark for both the project and life goals for me. Photos are nice but I decided to commission something that would help capture some of the emotion a bit better. This is still in progress but I couldn’t wait to share with the group here.

Updates started, pulled the blower and alternator, repaired threads on one of the airbox mounts while I was at it.


New “high” boost stepper pulley is in.
pulled the stube since an LHT billet Stube will be going in. Looks like the nose seal on the blower is seeping some so I’ll replace that while I have it out. Not sure if I’ll do it myself or have it done. I’d like to minimize the time the car is down though.

After reading more on the jrsc nose seal leak it’s possible/probable given the age at time spent stored, that the inner rotor seals are dried out which can cause boost to leak through the nose and carry oil out the nose seal. I’ll be contacting superchargersonline, since they are located only ~30mins away from me and arrange for a comprehensive service through them. Hopefully they’ll be able to turn it around quickly.

and you bought some eibach coilovers? this thing is running and already getting a major overhaul!

noahf wrote:and you bought some eibach coilovers? this thing is running and already getting a major overhaul!

Always hungry!

Yeah, I snagged the multi pro r2 set that popped up here. Not sure if I’ll just drop them in or do a mad scientist routine.



Today updates continued, I pulled the Skunk2 cams since I feel like I was loosing boost when I jumped to the larger Vtec profiles. I’m putting in OEM GSR intake and ITR exhaust cams. This will minimize valve overlap and so minimize loss.



Tomorrow it should start going back together, with new Greddy timing belt and fluidamper. Blower make take up to 2 weeks but I ordered what’s probably the last new Eaton M62 rotor set today. If I don’t need the set now a spare will ensure I can always service the blower.

aklackner wrote:The Willow Springs trip was a landmark for both the project and life goals for me. Photos are nice but I decided to commission something that would help capture some of the emotion a bit better. This is still in progress but I couldn’t wait to share with the group here.

Super cool man

aklackner wrote: ↑Tue Oct 26, 2021 11:20 pm The Willow Springs trip was a landmark for both the project and life goals for me. Photos are nice but I decided to commission something that would help capture some of the emotion a bit better. This is still in progress but I couldn’t wait to share with the group here.

You are quite talented. This looks so great . Great artwork.

Stin1 wrote:

aklackner wrote: ↑Tue Oct 26, 2021 11:20 pm

You are quite talented. This looks so great . Great artwork.

I like to think so but not as an artist. This is from a professional, Xavier, @psychoangelart on Instagram.

Superchargers Online completed tear down on the blower. Rotors checked out so it’ll get new needle bearings, and seals, then reassembled with fresh oil. Should be back to me in a week at the latest.

I’ll try to keep up the momentum and get things closed back up. Looks like the fluidamper was delayed and won’t come until tomorrow by end of day. Unfortunately an experiment with the ATI pulley installer didn’t work out. They are the only
Ones I see with an m14 1.25 adapter but the adapter is way too long to work for Bseries at least. Maybe if the motor was out and you used additional plate or thick stack of washers but since the fluidamper and ATI pulleys don’t have the large hex to hold like the oem pulleys I want a way to be able to get it on and off myself to do that Ming belts or whatever. It’s still possible the puller kit will work but I’ll need some method to hold the crank in place well enough to torque to spec. and to break the pulley bolt loose if I need to remove. It’s too bad they don’t update the bseries designs to the factory holder style inset, like the kseries has.