Type R Club of America

Depending on what flywheel you have you can pull the starter and you can lock the flywheel in place through the starter hole and through the flywheel to the block.

DC231 wrote:Depending on what flywheel you have you can pull the starter and you can lock the flywheel in place through the starter hole and through the flywheel to the block.

Thanks, I’ll take a look at that. I have the Honda flywheel tool so maybe I can make that work. Not really crazy about having to pull yet more out but gotta do what you gotta do I guess.

Fluidampr was delivered today. Tomorrow looks like I have the day more or less to myself so hopefully things will go back together to complete updates for: GSR Intake cam/ITR exhaust cam (to minimize boost loss due to overlap), Greddy timing belt, fluidampr crankshaft pulley. Alternator should also be able to go back in with stepper pulley, and lower alt mount setup to take the rear blower brace properly.

Somehow I knew this was going to be a fight or given the day was it bound to be a nightmare , mostly getting in my own way but still

In the end cams are tightened down in place, Greddy timing belt is on, and fluidampr pulley is on.



Somehow I kept screwing up the timing belt sequence and even then once I got that setup and tensioned properly I couldn’t get the crank locked up well enough to torque up the crank pulley bolt. This resulted in having to pull the pulley back off, but the bolts included with ATI pulley remover that I bought are too long to use with the motor in. I ended up having to make a quick run to pick up 3/8 24 x 1” bolts.
This still requires removing the outer accessory pulley for clearance but I was able to get the pulley off.

The belt had jumped a tooth on the cam gears since I had thought blocking them in addition to locking up the transmission (4th plus holding break pedal) would help get the bolt torqued up. Don’t do this the drive system still has movement if you have a sprung clutch so the crank moved enough when the brakes slipped a little, it’s much better to let the cams and the crank rotate together if there is any movement.

Got the timing belt set up again a final time, tensioned lower cover back on. This time my wife was back home so I had her hold the brakes, spun the crank bolt on to set the pulley again and torqued to spec. Thankfully I have the ARP pulley bolt which is reusable so no worries about issues with the one time use OEM bolt.

I also dropped the JRSC lower alternator bracket, sure enough it had been properly drilled but not tapped for m8 1.25. No problem I have a tap for that. Now I’ll be able to use the rear blower support so it’s not just hanging on the manifold.

Got some more work done today:

Valve lash is set to OEM spec. .006mm in, .007mm ex
With valve lash set the valve cover went on
Alternator was reinstalled
And I did one of my specialty moves, ugly welding to add some supports to a catch can brace.


I also got word that the supercharger is all serviced and ready for me to pick up so I might try to get that in tomorrow afternoon!!

I picked up the Cusco oil separator can quite a while ago but it’s bracket was for a JDM model and I don’t have much room left the rear of the bay so I needed to find an alternative location. I’d seen a few vehicles use this space so hopefully it works out well and will allow me to permanent vacuum from one of the stube nipples.

I’ll clean it up more later or have Fabtech make a nicer one and will check on having the whole can and mount powder coated black so it doesn’t stand out so much.

Got the blower back today, feels nice and smooth.
Mounted the LHT billet Stube and slid it into place. Feel like I said the same thing last time but it was a fight to get it out but seems to drop in easily.

Will need to take my time and make sure I get everything back in place and connected properly.

Will try to grab progress pictures tomorrow.



On another update I was going to hold off on posting anything on this until I put it in but I only plan to install for track days so that might be a while.

So here’s some shots
ASR adapter, Works bell quick release, Momo tuner 320mm wheel, oem NSX-R horn button.

So was very excited today to get the blower up into place everything went pretty smoothly until I put the TB in place. Not sure what LHT was thinking. I have no clearance to get an intake on, the throttle position sensor is on the charcoal can, and the engine harness in on the throttle pulley. I didn’t realize it but they extended the Stube and turned it towards the front meaning you’d need a custom intake and not sure how well even the GSR throttle cable would reach.

So this means I’ll need to drop it all back down, pull the blower out and replace the stube with the original then go again. Not sure if I’ll be ready for Radwood at this rate. John at LHT says it works but has at least said he’ll refund the stube and pay shipping on the header to be modified to actually fit.

Stube swap went pretty smoothly.

Blower is mounted back up with original stube again now.

Now hopefully Incan get back to positive progress and try to get it together and cleaned up for Radwood.

Feels like things are getting back on track.
Installed the RDX injectors, fuel rail (required ~15mm spacers on Jackson manifold)
Remounted oil pressure sensors, and map sensor (from manifold)
Will run some hose for catch can from pcv and evap solenoid
Then reinstall the TB, intake….

With Radwood in a couple weeks I may hold off on suspension updates for now and just focus on getting it running on a baseline and cleaned up.

Handful of items ticked off today:
Alternator, supercharger, AC, and Power Steering belts were all installed and tensioned.

I had to get a larger AC belt 33.3”/845mm. I’m still using the compressor from the LS and the ITR belt (820 iirc) was too small before so the tensioner was backed almost all the way off and with the fluidampr I couldn’t even get it in place.


Hoses for evap, pcv, and catch can all went in. The Cusco catch can is a simple empty can so I added steel wool and a filter down stream which should prevent any particulate from making it back into the intake.

With catch can lines run I was able to mount the TB up.

I was also able to get the tach signal from the distributor pinned into the oem harness and run around to the tach service connector. After pouring though a bunch of photos online I found the mating connector is a Sumitomo 6187-2801 (more commonly found on the Honda Talon ATV) and ordered a kit so I can have a no cut plug and play solution for a tach signal with the OBD1 ecu and 00-01 engine harness.

Holding off on getting the intake in to allow clearance to get wiring in for the wideband and some changes for WMI, but things are moving along nicely.