Type R Club of America

S300 and wide band are in.


Need to run a couple wires for CAN to RaceCapture and need to restock my supply of deutsch 2p connectors so I can do some of the WMI wiring but neither of those need to keep me from moving forward to get the car back in the ground and running.

awesome progress as always. you motivated me to get out and actually wrench on my car this past week. even though i ran into a few speed bumps which feels like the norm these days.

radwood looks like a fun event and hope you get the supercharger figured out in time.

and the jdm nsx logo looks awesome.

Wow! I see a ton of new updates and progress, bravo! I always enjoy seeing your wrench updates but I'm really impressed with the project updates. You are really making headway.

No fancy photos today.
Turned the ignition on, without starting the car so fuel system would pressurize and so I’d be able to read and write to the ecu.

I’ll monitor for fuel leaks but so far everything is dry.

I also spent some time getting tps and MAP sensor settings fine tuned, and throttle (pedal & cable) dialed in.

Next I think I’ll go ahead and do some cleaning underneath, get the under panel and wheels back in place so I can roll it out of the garage. I’ll close up the intake system. If all goes well, tomorrow I’ll try to start it up so I can confirm the wideband is working and to reset idle and timing.

do you already have an appointment with Churches?

Not yet, I’ll run the jrsc baseline for a few miles to make sure things are stable.

Ok I guess I did take some photos today:

Smanage with MAP and TPS sensors zeroed out. AFR at 1.36 should mean a full 5v from the Wideband.


Tach connected in from distributor to the service connector. The 00-01 generates a signal in the ecu for the gauge cluster, earlier years used a wire from the sensor in the distributor. The wire/pin is there on the distributor side but not on the 00-01 engine harnesses. To get tach back on the gauge cluster using an obd1 ecu you have to patch the distributor signal in to the feed for the engine bay tach connector since it feeds from the same circuit. The Sumitomo connector provides a clean and sealed solution.


Bay is still a mess of hoses and wires but it’s a little cleaner with the jrsc fpr off the firewall. I think it’s sexy.

Are you still happy with the battery? Would it be suitable for a garage queen? I get one or two reliable start out of my current 2 year old battery , time to replace it soon. I've had to buy a portable jumper box to carry while driving around.

The InduraPower unit isn’t sold any more so it’s all a bit besides the point but also too bad since it does work pretty well. A lot of units have issues with the cells (not really unique to this manufacturer just the nature of the quality that’s being turned out and available) but my specific unit has been . I’ve drained and recharged with my old school (no safety circuit) 10amp charger with no I’ll effects as far as I can detect. I now use a specific 4S charger that was recommended.

It will hold a charge sitting for 1-2 weeks so you’d need to keep it on a maintainer if sitting.

It has some Bluetooth features for monitoring and a safety to store shut down and save enough juice for “one last start” but it been a bit goofy to keep paired/connect. Re-pairing means pulling the battery and physically orienting to trigger so I don’t actively use Bluetooth.

Well I had a couple beers at lunch and it was 90f out so decided not to try to push to get the car started.

Instead I decided to do goof off and do some cleaning.

The wheel well liners came over from the LS and hadn’t been cleaned in 24 years so




I also received the sketch I had done from the Willow Springs photo.

Need to flatten out and get it framed


This also came today from
This looks very close to the OBD1 US setup so should make things easier to arrange with the s300