Type R Club of America

Interesting, switching over to the older style EVAP? I thought about switching over when a friend gave me his old EVAP setup but I was looking through S300 and it supported inverting the EVAP signal instead and didn't change it.

aw614 wrote:Interesting, switching over to the older style EVAP? I thought about switching over when a friend gave me his old EVAP setup but I was looking through S300 and it supported inverting the EVAP signal instead and didn't change it.

Yeah that control works for the evap solenoid but there’s no obd1 control for the tank vent solenoid that was added on the top of the can 98+. I’m honestly not too sure what the implications would be but this should ensure correct function of the evap system.

Finished cleaning things up a bit, remounted the front wheels and under panel.

Intake went back in too

Did a first start and it runs but idle is low (around 750 +-100 even during warm up) and rough. Not surging but sort of has a lope and occasionally threatens to stall.

If AEM MAP is set up right it’s only reading 15inhg vacuum at idle (though very stable), and combined with the rough idle probably means I have a vacuum leak that I’ll need to run down. I can try to confirm by swapping to the OEM map to get a reading at idle and confirm.

Also Wideband only seems to read 5v (20:1) when the sensor is heated, (14.6:1) when sensor is disconnected from the controller (which is expected) though so I think the s300 is reading the voltage right but I might need to replace the Bosch sensor? Can also try the OEM O2 sensor to see how that reads.

I may also drop the OEM ecu back in to eliminate any issue on that side.

Wheels washed up


Engine bay more or less together


Modified Radium phenolic spacers (to replace aluminum ones I used to get fuel rail mounted.

If you have a mechanical boost guage you can compare the vacuum readings with that. If a mechanical guage is sitting at 20 then you don't have a vacuum leak.

DC231 wrote:If you have a mechanical boost guage you can compare the vacuum readings with that. If a mechanical guage is sitting at 20 then you don't have a vacuum leak.

Yes that’s a good idea too.

I should have one I can dig out and connect off a spare nipple or even the line I’m using for the catch can.

Have been really struggling to make sense of what was going on spent a good segment of the day scoping sealing surfaces, testing vacuum lines, basically everything I could think of.

I finally let it warm up with the service connector on, then set base timing to factory. Things started looking better quick. I think the ignition timing was simply far enough off that it was the source of the low vacuum.

AFR in the s300 was reporting 10:1 with the factory sensor so I disabled open loop and it seemed to like that even more. I had to shut it down to go take care of a few things but this evening I was able to pull the service connector and fire it up. Came right up to 1100-1200rpm to warm up and seemed much more stable.

Was able to back it into the garage at least without issue.

If I can get the time tomorrow I’ll swap the wideband and AEM back in and see it that’s happy now and if that will run open loop.

Personal favor to ask for anyone who checks in on my thread. A good friend had made the tough choice to sell his prized S2000. Unfortunately increasing issues with his back have gotten to the point he is no longer able to work the clutch reliably.

If anyone you know might be interested please take a look. I am vouching that its an incredibly clean car that you’ll struggle to find an issue with (well other than that he chromed the Work wheels. Even that he’s simply so OCD that he must have any minor surface scratch repaired and got tired of having to have all 4 wheels and tires pulled to ensure they matched. Uncolored chrome is always the same so…)

It’s posted on S2Ki and is in the process of going up on BAT. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions, If I can’t answer I can get an answer. He’s asking $30k.

Here’s the S2KI link:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/cars-sale-1 ... st24889653

Wahoo! I’m pretty confident that I sorted the issue(s) out. I thought I had grabbed the correct baseline but when I created the baseline again from new calibration menu and did a compare basically everything was different.

Adjusted the injectors from 440 to 410 and then used the dead time preset for rdx. Set my map and wideband. Bam idles great s.trim is 0-2 in open loop and vacuum is now 22inhg.




https://vimeo.com/647004160/d9992af18e

That has to be a great feeling, woot! Now it's time to enjoy the car.

I got out for a short test drive this afternoon… I cannot overstate what a huge difference there is in the car.

There is certainly more power but everything is so much smoother, no hesitation or shudders even aggressively jumping on and off the gas. The exhaust tone is deeper and smoother. I’m instantly more comfortable in the car. It’s feels more natural and almost refined. You actually notice the power less you’re just going faster with less effort.

I can’t wait to see where it’s at after a proper tune but running so well with the baseline that I have no reservations about taking it to Radwood, just have to get it washed up now!

I do have an issue I’ll need to address in some way with the edelbrock throttlebody sticking when hot. The throttle doesn’t close back all the way down and keeps the idle up ~1000rpm. If I push the throttle pulley it shuts and returns to a normal idle. The throttle body is clean, it’s mechanical interference. I’m already very near the limit of the idle adjustment, if I raise the throttle stop any further I don’t think I’d be able to get proper base idle set (550+-50 warm, IACV and evap sol. disconnected) with the idle adjustment screw all the way in.

I prefer the GSR throttle cable (since there’s less drag over the jrsc IM) so returning to an OEM TB would be less preferable or at least I’d want to find a clean GSR TB and someone to do a quality overbore.

Just to play around with I ordered a Blox billet 66mm TB. In my experience Blox have poor quality but this unit has a brass plate, GSR cable holder mount points, nipple for obd1 charcoal can control, and no nipples for coolant lines (which I don’t use). It also has the advantage of a semi circular pulley with multiple cable mount points so I won’t have to try to swap a GSR pulley on or mess with altered stop points.

They list at ~$320 but are marked down to $190, likely marketing since seems to be this price everywhere. This Blox will be something like the 5th TB I’ve bought to have lying around or junked. At some point I’m sure I’ll just return to the JDM ITR TB I used when setup NA and call it good enough. Anyone want a 70mm speed factory TB I can’t use since the LHT stube was a bust?