Dumb, Stubborn, and bound to end up penniless…….

[aklackner]

Need a 12v source to roll windows down to get them and seals out.

Tried charging both batteries I had for the ITR, neither would take a charge even with my manual charger so good excuse for an upgrade.

https://indurapower.com/120-project.html
Should have it by next week.

Li-ion
8lbs (vs OEM ~28lbs)
300 pulse amps, 20Ah (sort of equivalent to 560 CCA but not really, plenty to start the car regardless)
1/2” shorter in height (so should fit OEM brace), 3” shorter in length, 2” thinner (vs oem)
Bluetooth for monitoring and management
Internal heater for cold starts(auto and Bluetooth triggers)
Safety reserve (w/ Bluetooth override)
Short circuit monitoring w/ auto shut off
Manual shutoff (from Bluetooth)
Capacity, temp, voltage monitoring(individual cells, total, and at terminals)




Maybe not ideal for a location with actual low temps but not a problem I have.

[RTW DC2R]

Nice progress

[aklackner]

Received the new Li-ion battery today. Bluetooth seemed flaky but test started the old LS (which has been holding my motor and was over due for a start) easily.

Size made mounting super simple.

After letting the motor come up to temp I updated the firmware on the battery (yep there’s an app for that) and Bluetooth started to behave much better.

So far so good!

[aklackner]

Still lagging on getting the undercarriage wrapped up and my shell off to the body shop but have been giving my wallet a bit of exercise...


Some (supposedly) Buddy Club P1 16x7 et 43 wheels so I won’t need to worry about my TE37s on LA roads. I was amazed how quick these came since they shipped from Russia. Genuine or not they weigh in @ 16lbs each so not terrible for a street wheel.



Picked up a used JDM spoiler. The one that came with my shell had a busted stud. This one has a bad repaint job (looks like a bad prep job) but it’s going out with the shell for paint any way. More importantly all 4 studs look great!


Also received a Fujitsubo SS b-pipe (from legalis, I believe). I’d been running a Mugen one but want to try moving closer to 2.5” w/ custom 2.5” cat. When I had the motor tuned it was recommended. I want to keep the twin loop and don’t want to cut up the Mugen b-pipe so this should fit the bill. (Please ignore that I set it up wrong in the photo)

[Stin1]

Did you pay the premium for genuine wheels ? I see why you are skeptical on the authenticity. I also agree that they are not. There is a few mugen mf8s coming out of Russia. They were used and they had the accord fitment. It struck me as odd to see multiple listings. This was on eBay.

[aklackner]

Depending on what your gauge and calculus is they weren’t too bad. $640 for the wheels $300 for shipping. There was some minor rash on one of the wheels and there is some paint flaking on the barrels. Stamped “First” & Made in Japan behind the spokes, P1 racing stickers on the lips. Similar to my TE37s the pattern is miss stamped. The one I stuck on my bathroom scale hit exactly 16 lbs.

I don’t care too much if they aren’t genuine since they still hit my requirements for street wheels:
- Heavy enough that I don’t have to be super careful with them
- Light enough that they are still in the performance category (to me)
- Clearance for my Mugen (S2k) calipers
- Zero risk offset, (no fender rolling, etc)
- In good enough shape that refinishing them is optional.
- Not something that I’m going to cry over when they get damaged
- pretty sexy still

[aklackner]

Time well spent?

I didn’t make it to Expo West, just wasn’t in the cards this time but I did get some time to get a coat on the rear undercarriage.

[aklackner]

Well that should be more or less the undercarriage.

[Stin1]

Wow! Looks great!

[JDMJNKY]

Inspiring to say the least. I like the fact there's though going into the undercarriage. The vision you already hold makes me excited to see this car complete.