Type R Club of America

Well I finally bought some parts today. CP Rods and CP Pistons. I figured I would start a build log as I get my #139 to breath again.

I'm changing the engine setup pretty dramatically from what it was before. So any comments or suggests would be welcome.

The car spun a rod bearing at Road America (I forget the year 2014?) And has been sitting ever since. Right after the incident I did tear the engine down to determine the problem. I had the crank checked and the machine shop was able to pull it straight.

My previous setup was using B17 Crank, off the shelf eagle rods and some Endyne pistons. With this setup I had the machine shop drop the deck high to raise the compression a little. But I was still running 8.83:1. I believe the large inefficiency of this setup led to many of high heat issues while on the track.

Going forward I plan on going back to my B18C5 crank, CP rods and CP pistons. With this setup I can bring my CR back to around 10.6:1 This leaves my Piston to Head height clearance still in acceptable limit even though the block was decked earlier for the b17 crank.



I still plan on keeping the turbo, will lower the boost and will run E85. The whole setup should run much cooler doing this. I did buy a larger radiator years ago but I don't plan to install it as it will require lots of fab work.

The car also desperately needs a new fresh coat of paint + clear. In the coming months I will strip the engine bay down and try and get that taken care of.

Feels pretty good to buy some parts again for this car. Its been too long.

It's great to see you post up. I hope all is well.

You were one of a few to have engine issues at Type R Expo 14 at Road America that year. I'm happy to hear you still have the car and are in the process of rebuilding.

FYI I recently bought the molding parters from IRUNOEM that were available to repaint my car. I can share my spreadsheet with PN's. If anything else random pops up, happy to help.

Welcome back! I have a soft spot for that car. I drove it once when Wai had it. Also, Expo 14 is very special to me. Unfortunately, we had many engine issues at the track (compared to wall issues at Mid-Ohio).

I'm slightly surprised you're keeping the turbo. I remember when Adam Jabaay pulled the turbo from his EF and was enjoying the car in a way at Expo Autobahn. He had a huge smile on his face.

<---who also enjoys his wife's Accord 2.0T Touring. The turbo is nice.

Nice! What are the goals for the car? Fun daily drive that you can also track? Are you going to be using a shop? Looking forward to seeing it come together! Keep us updated

coolhandluke wrote: ↑Fri Jun 26, 2020 1:49 pm FYI I recently bought the molding parters from IRUNOEM that were available to repaint my car. I can share my spreadsheet with PN's. If anything else random pops up, happy to help.

Thanks I might need this. I did resurrect my old part number search: http://dansprojects.com/itr/parts/index.cfm

jayhaire wrote: ↑Sat Jun 27, 2020 11:25 pm I'm slightly surprised you're keeping the turbo. I remember when Adam Jabaay pulled the turbo from his EF and was enjoying the car in a way at Expo Autobahn. He had a huge smile on his face.

I've gone back and fourth on this. Its something I still may do but part of me wants to have a successful turbo tracked car that is reliable. The spun bearing is ultimately my fault at road america. Too many sessions without oil changes. And who knows what type of damage I had done from previous track days (As the car had constant heat issues in the past).

With this new internal engine setup, if I decide to go back to NA, not much will need to change engine wise as the CR will be decent vs old setup. However, 86mm NA setup sounds pretty sick.

To change over to NA setup, I will need new bumper, headers, downpipe and a 4.4 final drive? Not sure how a 2.0L would react to a 4.05 final drive that I have now. (I still have shortned 3rd-5th gearset)

I just have invested so much energy/time/money into the turbo setup I don't want to abandon just yet (ask me 5 years ago, I'd say throw all the turbo shit in the trash)

Right now the easiest option is to put the engine back together with the new rods/pistons and everything should bolt back in place.

Chwalisaurus wrote: ↑Sun Jun 28, 2020 8:00 pm Nice! What are the goals for the car? Fun daily drive that you can also track? Are you going to be using a shop? Looking forward to seeing it come together! Keep us updated

Good questions. Ultimate goal is to take it track days still. Maybe some weekend drives. The car is far to uncomfortable to drive on a regular basis and I'm at the point in my life that I don't want backsweat all the time But I do really miss having something sporty to drive around.

I'll have a local machine shop polish, check for straightness etc of the block and head. But I will do all the assembly myself.

citrus3000psi wrote: ↑Mon Jun 29, 2020 9:38 am Thanks I might need this. I did resurrect my old part number search: http://dansprojects.com/itr/parts/index.cfm

Awesome! We should coordinate on efforts here:
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1036

citrus3000psi wrote: ↑Mon Jun 29, 2020 9:38 am ...Right now the easiest option is to put the engine back together with the new rods/pistons and everything should bolt back in place...

I agree, focusing on the shortest patch to getting the car up and fun to drive sounds like the best path.

Many of you might not know that I converted my power windows to manual when I rewired the car.

They worked but just not that well. I revitted a manual spline onto where the motor sat. It didn't have much power and would skip teeth. Mostly to the alignment I'd imagine.

This is going to be slow a rebuild for process, so Im trying to go back and fix this minor issues like this.

I don't think this is documented anywhere (?), but manual windows from an 86-89 teg are almost drop in replacements. You just need to move over the smaller metal rail from the 94-01 regulator and it will bolt right in. (You will need to drill a hole in the skin for the shaft)

If you jump on ebay and look there are not that many available, but more might popup. Just make sure it has this style bolt pattern:

86-89 manual Teg Regulator:




An 86-89 Accord regulator might also work, but untested, shown below.




In other news

I'm currently on the lookout for a new front bumper. Mine is in rough shape and I'd like to start off fresh. Since the car will be getting repainted anyways.

CP rods came in. So I will start doing motor work here soon. The CP pistons were not stocked so they are getting fabbed now.

Bumpers were still available new last fall, I can confirm now if desired. I recently purchased one of the last new rear bumpers for my repaint.

You are inspiring me to update my build thread.

Yeah I’d love to get a new bumper if you have a source. That would be great


Looks like the 04711-ST7-A91ZZ is still available. Is there a preferred dealer? I used to always buy parts from delay

Oddly ,the type r has a different part number on the front bumper . I haven’t been able to figure out why . The type r part number is discontinued.