Type R Club of America

Didnt find much when searching this forum.

Curious what setup is everyone using that had the JRSC?

Debating on picking one up. It is missing the FMU, relay.. but I am guessing a s300 will be better anyway.

Those running, using 440cc injectors? what fuel pump? Any other supporting mods needed?

Hey, I’m running a JRSC, I don’t know that it really makes a lot of sense today, honestly. It just seems like there are better options for every use case, especially on a b18c5.

My rational (I’ll add actual tips to implement if you still want below)
A JRSC certainly isn’t as effective or broadly supported as a turbo.

The only reason I can think of for trying is to maintain CARB compliance but in CARB form the system runs very rich and is generally hit and miss if it will pass if you have to do a sniff test. It works for cars that only need to read the ecu since a relay tells the ecu it has freezing IATs so the ecu doesn’t care O2 is reading rich. It cranks fuel pressure up a lot 5:1 psi (so if Honda has you at ~60psi WOT, the jrsc will crank that to 85psi or more). It’s not plug and play you have to cut the harness to get sensors to reach and for fmu. Power added from the Carb format of the kit is about on par with what I was getting tuned with intake, and carb legal cams (Skunk2 tuner1). Though it does bring a boost to torque lower in the RPM band so you don’t have to crank the rpm light to light on the street. However the motor will behave more like it’s a larger displacement, more civil (less explosive vtec fun) and you’ll probably need to lower redline a bit due to added load spinning the blower places on the motor.

If you plan to go higher boost you’ll need to get tuned, wont get as much torque as turbo and have to deal with high to extreme intake temps.

So you’re sure you want a JRSC anyway?
Top line stuff:
The fmu is just a relay and resistor. The relay is activated when a Hobbs switch see boost. This adds resistance to the IAT signal showing a dump in IAT (this means you can’t actually read IAT any more. The ECU also doesn’t read boost since it’s reading MAP at the TB before the blower.)

For brackets, pulleys, etc, many bits are now available as separate items from 1320 or others.

If running the carb kit you’ll need a 5:1 rising rate fpr (this sits behind the OEM fpr and fuel return line). You’ll run the OEM 240cc injectors. If running higher boost you’ll need injectors sized to the estimated power you’ll be making and a tuneable ecu.

255lph walbro fuel pump or better is probably necessary to handle pressures for CARB kit or high flow rate injectors. Check your voltage, low voltage is the source of a lot of issues with fueling limits.

440 injectors are probably only good if running the low boost on a standalone ecu, but you’ll want 550 or more. Supercharged setup will need a richer fuel target to help cool combustion chamber and valves some. Brake specific fuel consumption (bsfc) should be estimated between .55 and .6 for fueling calculators to determine correct injector sizing.

If running higher boost you need to add an absolute pressure sensor (psia 2.5+ bar) to send pressure measures directly in the manifold to replace stock TB located MAP.

You’ll need a custom intake arm. Jackson moved the TB so that it’s in between the GSR and ITR position and slightly closer to the shock tower. Even the Comptech jrsc specific arm had to be modified to fit currently available filters. The OEM ITR arm will physically connect but is crimped in 1/2 so air flow would be restricted.

You’ll want to swap to a GSR throttle cable and a TB with the GSR throttle cable mount. The jrsc moves the TB down below the manifold so the cable has to turn and point down to the pulley. LHT did make a roller that mounts to the top of the manifold but this interferes with the cable seal, and in my experience contributed to throttle sticking.

If you want to use the LHT billet Stube this brings the TB out much further You’ll need to remove evap system or modify to lower some how and AC lines will need to be relocated significantly to clear. Will also mean custom intake arm. I couldn’t make work in my car due to AC and evap systems.

With carb kit you have to play with base timing instructions call for 9deg btdc, this limits power pretty significantly but is the only way to protect against detonation with CARB kit since OEM ecu map advances timing aggressively which leads to dangerous combustion chamber temps due to increased and unmonitored IATs (remember the ecu will only see freezing on IAT under boost) so there’s no safety. Hopefully the ecu detects knock and pulls timing before damage occurs.

You will have heat issues. Specifically high IATs. My car has Koyo radiator (running water based rear line super cool), vented hood, heat blanket isolated header. Running 8psi, tuned conservatively (230hp @8300), mix of vp C16 and 110octane, and 4.5gal/hr WMI, .65 lambda, on a 70f day hit IATs of 179f in a 30 minute session, despite coolant ~185f, and oil ~254f. This means severe risk of detonation during aggressive driving on warm days or long trips where engine and blower will heat soak.

If you want high boost, and you don’t need carb, and you manage to find more room in your engine bay the LHT modified manifold to add chiller tubes can help with extreme IATs from the kit but adds risk if these leak (there are reports of this)water runs in to manifold and cylinders quickly ending your motor.

Again none of this gets you the torque of a turbo, and from my experience HP similar carb kit can be had with carb legal cams in what I feel is a safer set up and maintains the original NA explosive nature of the ITR.

wow, thank you so much for the detailed reply, it does help tremendously.

I do want to keep it CARB, but only need that when SMOG is required, so will probably need to source the additional parts to do so if i choose, but it may just be easier to slap on the stock IM and toss the stock ecu in.

I was reding and the pressure switch/relay was replaced with a MAP box? i am not finding much about that device i see there is a Boost Timing controller they had also, but not sure if that was B series applicable.

For the fpr they have that increases the fuel pressure 5:1, you happen to know if that is needed still if i go larger injectors and standalone?

Will need to see what tb the charger has, i know it doesnt have the roller pulley or any bracket. but good to know you need the gsr cable also and bracket, i thought it was just the tb.

The map box was included with the high boost kit I believe. I have one if you want it, it’s yours. It’s not carb legal. It was a solution to pull timing if you wanted to run high boost with stock ecu or to run more base timing with low boost kit on stock ecu. Not something I’d recommend since you’d get a lot more out of a standalone/tuned ecu.

The only carb compliant set up includes the 5:1 rising rate fpr but that isn’t necessary if doing larger injectors, standalone, if you’re going for a swap-able setup. I like the idea of swapping back to NA as needed, it’s not that hard. In this case and assuming you only run street not track, you can probably reasonably make this work. JRSC will make for a great street cruiser with that extra wow factor at meets/shows as period appropriate mod and probably requires less modification than a turbo setup making it more ideal for a dual mode setup. Which is what attracted me to try it out.

If you buy the kit take it straight to Superchargersonline.com based in SimiValley area, it will need maintenance, which will run ~$600 for new bearings and seals. They’ll inspect the rotorpackas well and make sure it’s in good shape but won’t rebuild the rotors as this is prone to failure if taken apart.

PM me I can talk about this setup for days and probably help with some bits, and let you take a look at how I worked it out if you’re local.

Cheers,
Alan