Type R Club of America

From looking at the bushing shape it looks like it gets pressed out form the narrower side towards the fatter side. Pressing back in is in reverse order. My question is looking at the LCA's they don't look like they would be able to survive sitting on a press without being bent in the process.

If the corrosion is minimal how much force should it take vs pressing out normal bushing on the front LCA?
If there are those who Have got any tips?

thanks

Kingpin Machine has noted similar risks when pressure Rear LCA bushings. Prior to Honda raising prices, complete Rear LCA’s were $38 per side. Now they are $70/per which is still worth avoiding pressing bushings.

Thank you for the reply. I was figuring I was going to be taking the path of new complete units vs replacing bushings. I just wanted to make sure replacing the bushings wasn't the easier path.

Slightly getting of Subject here. Do you know of any members had have opted for Hardrace's rear LCA's? The price point is minimal how ever the slightly stiffer bushing may aid in road feel.
For the record I didn't like their RTA bushings but their LCA bushing for the front seemed fine when I tried them many years ago.

I did not personally have a great experience with HardRace products. My front LCA's held up well but I recently swapped for Kingpin Machine OEM/HPD bushings. My HardRace front sway endlinks recently started to fail. Other failures include motor mounts.

coolhandluke wrote: ↑Sun Jun 23, 2019 10:59 am I did not personally have a great experience with HardRace products. My front LCA's held up well but I recently swapped for Kingpin Machine OEM/HPD bushings. My HardRace front sway endlinks recently started to fail. Other failures include motor mounts.

How old were your front endlinks? Mine looked fine when I took them off recently. They were about 4-5 years old with mostly autocross mileage. The front LCA bushings, didn't hold up for my friend with 3-4 years of commuting. I think my ek civic's original bushings looked better than his.

Mileage and track days are probably more relevant for my car. I have put approximate 28k and ~40-50x track days since rebuilding (from a shell) in 2008. I started getting a loud popping noise last weekend on track and inspected the units yesterday. The bushings were mishaped but didn't show other signs.

I had good luck with the helms/oem process for replacing the rear bushings.

Pressing in, light lube and press the arm onto the bushing (use a flat face with large open center to support the bushing, not a thin lip cup/socket, and cup in the back of the Lca)There was no indication the bushing or lca was anywhere near collapse. If ok with OEM dur. or short on press equipment it’s probably with the extra $40/side to swap in pre-assembled OEM or pay a local parts store to press (~$30 for wheel bearings near me in LA).

I used hardrace street (softer than race line but a bit harder to locate in stock). I can’t speak to longevity though since this was on a 5 lug swapped LS that was rear ended and totaled the first week it was back on the ground

aklackner wrote: ↑Sun Jun 23, 2019 4:38 pm I had good luck with the helms/oem process for replacing the rear bushings.

Pressing in, light lube and press the arm onto the bushing (use a flat face with large open center to support the bushing, not a thin lip cup/socket, and cup in the back of the Lca)There was no indication the bushing or lca was anywhere near collapse. If ok with OEM dur. or short on press equipment it’s probably with the extra $40/side to swap in pre-assembled OEM or pay a local parts store to press (~$30 for wheel bearings near me in LA.)...

Excellent feedback, thank you.