Type R Club of America

Hey everyone,

I'm approaching a point in my first ever rebuild where I'll be swapping it into the car. I do have some questions and am open to suggestions and information. From what I have been able to glean from online searches is that everybody has their own way of breaking in an engine. The questions I have is...
1. What kind of oil is recommended for the initial start-up and break-in period?
2. What steps do each of you use to break-in a new motor and what reading material is there to back up your process?

Like I said I am open to any information. A little info on the motor if it makes any difference to the process it's a GSR block that's been bored and honed .20 over (85mm). I'm using P30 pistons with the stock GSR crank and rods. GSR head with Toda B spec cams and Toda valve springs. Thanks in advance!

Chwalisaurus wrote: ↑Wed Feb 12, 2020 1:37 pm 1. What kind of oil is recommended for the initial start-up and break-in period?
2. What steps do each of you use to break-in a new motor and what reading material is there to back up your process?

For my RDOT block I:
-Oil free of detergents (Castrol 5w30)
-Distilled water as coolant
-Initial crank + idle until radiator fans engaged
-Drained oil + coolant
-Fresh oil + Distilled water
-Dyno break-in + tuning
-Changed oil + coolant
-Changed oil + coolant at 500mi
-Changed oil + coolant at 1000mi (1500mi total)
-Changed oil + coolant again at 3000mi (4500mi total)
*MTF was changed throughout the process as well due to fresh build
-Changed oil every two track weekends

I recommend taking oil samples throughout and sending to Blackstone Labs for analysis.

on initial start up did you pop out the fuse for the fuel pump to prime oil?

It's been a long time since I researched so I can't really help for sources but the link below covers the basic process.
https://www.dynotechtuning.com/pages/en ... uilt-motor

One thing to keep in mind is OEM honing process is much finer than is common for many builders. Depending on how fine your cylinders are honed will determine what break in process should be. The more course the walls, typically the more intense your break-in activity should be since more material will be moved around as rings\cylinder walls are mated which increases the chances of building ridges. With OEM grade honing less should be required to mate the rings\wall so you can be more gentle during break-in since this minimizes risk of break-in particles causing damage.

For first start of my current motor (OEM assembled block+used head cleaned w/ valve job) I used Brad Penn 30w break-in oil. https://www.amazon.com/Brad-Penn-Oil-00 ... B002RF8IN2 It's stupid expensive (especially flushing through multiple times, green (not sure if its the intent but can help make identifying a leaking fluid more easily), has high levels of ZDDP (so good for our rockers, not so great for the cat). First start was done with the OEM ECU.

Prior to actual first start I pulled the ECU fuse (so no fuel injection or spark), with the valve cover loose and cranked the motor a couple times, then checked to confirm the valve train was well lubricated. Then tightened down the valve cover, reinstalled the ecu fuse. Did a last check over to make sure everything looked good and was connected, then cranked it over for the first time. Changed the oil, restarted after warm up and bleeding coolant I moved on to setting the timing per OEM process.

As per OEM new car guidance I drove it easy for break-in, <500mi. I changed out oil again. Then I swapped to RDX injectors, installed the PLX wideband, and had it dyno tuned on s300.

Chwalisaurus wrote: ↑Wed Feb 12, 2020 2:04 pm on initial start up did you pop out the fuse for the fuel pump to prime oil?

I don't think it's mandatory, it's done done both ways, but I personally think it's nice just to make sure it's well lubed, especially if it's been a while since assembly.

Thank you both! Definitely appreciate the responses.

Chwalisaurus wrote: ↑Wed Feb 12, 2020 2:04 pm on initial start up did you pop out the fuse for the fuel pump to prime oil?

Thank you for bringing this up. I pulled the ground block for the ignition and fuel and cranked for oil pressure.

It is pretty much confirmed high zinc oil is good for our motors and cam wear? I've read this from multiple sources, but wasn't sure if this really held true

I disconnected the distributor for the initial oil lubrication . I also install the plugs after this . I used regular Honda oil that was not synthetic. I have seen people that like compressor oil for start up.

Yea, don't use synthetic until after 500-1000 miles.

I just rebuilt mines and ran it hard but also important to let it decelerate in gear. It adds a lot of pressure. It was tough doing it on the streets.... It seated the rings quickly.

My buddy did this: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm and it was very successful. I did the same.