My 2000 Integra LS build thread

[DC231]

Need to post some more updates but here is a question. Has anyone experienced this on their driver side wheel well? Looks like I am rubbing through the under coating and straight onto metal. Been putting plastidip for now to protect it but still comes off after a few months.

Edit it seems attachments aren't working ill upload it in a few

Very common on these cars civics and integras alike..

[aw614]

I got my 15x8s mounted today with my 205/50/15 rivals, It seems with with -3 degrees of camber up front, I get no rubbing with my fender liners in, but the rears, it seems under aggressive cornering and slight inclines, I get some tire rub and can see the marks on rear arches that would typically be rolled. With the stock rear camber arms, I have around -1 to -1.5* of camber. I think if I could get around -2 in the rear I can get away without rolling?

Has anyone used a rear camber kit like SPC's and is it possible to add camber in the rear with them? I really don't want to roll my rear quarter panels, and I'd rather add rear camber and adjust my setup to work with additional rear camber. would raising my ride height work to prevent the rub? which is an option I am considering. autocross is next week and I am considering bringing my 15x7 continentals to run in the rear if the rubbing is really bad during the event.

Pictures of it as it sits.

[DC231]

So your oil consumption issue... I wanted to ask a couple things about that. Was the cylinder head rebuilt with the block? Have you changed the PCV valve? Are you losing it through your catch can setup? Or leaks? Let's try narrowing it down.

[aw614]

So your oil consumption issue... I wanted to ask a couple things about that.

It comes down to I need to get a leakdown test to see what is going on.. Plan on picking one up this week and seeing if I can get it done and report back what I find out.

Was the cylinder head rebuilt with the block?

When I had the block rebuilt, I went ahead and had the machine shop install new OEM valve stem seals. My friend who had the head mentioned it had bronze valve guides, which I did not get replaced since the head had less than 15k miles on it. But I question now whether I should have had them replaced after reading threads on bronze valve guides

This was the details I know of the head from his build thread over on t-i

the GSR Head now consists of:
-pnp
-3 angle valve job
-supertech valvetrain
-aupertech flat faced valves
-skunk2 lmas
-bronze valve guides

Have you changed the PCV valve? Are you losing it through your catch can setup?

I've tried multiple setups with no change, only thing I haven't tried putting the blackbox in, but I think that might make things worse
-The typical endyn setup with the breather and venting from the back of the block
-The Enydn setup with the PCV on top of the catchcan instead of the breather - This was horrible, and the car would create a smoke stream at autocross, which mirrors the situation solo_x had on his DSP ITR from this previous h-t thread: https://honda-tech.com/forums/road-raci ... st38730576
-Valve cover venting to the endyn can with the breather
-Valve cover breather with the endyn can with the pcv on top, which appears due to the valve cover internal baffles and the endyn can's baffles, does not produce same issue like the back of the block.

In all setups, I ran the drainback either the traditional endyn method or straight to the bung on my oil pan. And I've tried OEM PCVs and Toyota Supra PCVs, so I don't think the consumption is from the PCV. When I was venting to atmosphere, and I would rev the motor from the TB wheel, it would always mist some smoke,.

Or leaks? Let's try narrowing it down.

No oil leaks, all of those were fixed over a 1.5 years ago. The main culprits were the oil pan gasket and the oil pump o-ring leaking. Since then, its been leak free.

This past month I've gone 200+ street miles of just regular street driving and occasional VTEC with no noticeable oil consumption as it is still on the top dot, which has been my experience, but I've switched back to conventional 10w30 Valvoline VR1, and on hard driving the 1-2 shift I can see the smoke from my rear view mirror from the VTEC Transition. But I've 10w30, 10w40, 5w40, 15w40 and all consume around the same amount of oil the minute I take it to an autocross event. The two track days I've done, I consumed the same amount of oil with a longer duration of hard driving, go figure.

[DC231]

Sounds like you have tried a lot. Do you have the black box just blocked off? I have seen some people have problems with excessive crank case pressures with the box removed totally. I wouldn't think it would be an issue for you considering the catch can bungs on the front of the VC. That's def the best place to vent on these engines. The big holes on the rear seem to be the worst place to vent because the crank case pressure causes the oil flowing down from the cylinder head to push into the lines. A leak down test will definitely help in pinpointing the problem please share your results. I would assume your bronze guides could be worn as well especially if they are supertech, they have horrible quality control on most parts. If you can remove valve springs while assembled then remove a spring or 2 and see how much you can wiggle the stem side to side, that could give an indication on worn guides. Other than that, you would be right most likely on loose ring gaps, improperly spacing ring gaps, crap machine work etc. Did you assemble the block yourself?

[aw614]

Sounds like you have tried a lot. Do you have the black box just blocked off? I have seen some people have problems with excessive crank case pressures with the box removed totally. I wouldn't think it would be an issue for you considering the catch can bungs on the front of the VC. That's def the best place to vent on these engines. The big holes on the rear seem to be the worst place to vent because the crank case pressure causes the oil flowing down from the cylinder head to push into the lines.

I put back the stock allens back in the block along with one of plug that people use to block the blackbox. That was the general consensus I was reading too from several b series road racers that experienced similar issues on healthy motors.

A leak down test will definitely help in pinpointing the problem please share your results. I would assume your bronze guides could be worn as well especially if they are supertech, they have horrible quality control on most parts. If you can remove valve springs while assembled then remove a spring or 2 and see how much you can wiggle the stem side to side, that could give an indication on worn guides.

Didn't realize that about supertech, but I've always been wary of aftermarket components b/c of the quality control issue that seems to be all over the place. I may see if a friend has the valve spring tool or look into purchasing one. Have to get my compression tester back from another friend b/c I can do the oil trick to see what happens too.

Could you also tell if the valve guides/seals are bad by pulling the header and looking at the valves themselves for oil pooling up there? Or does normal ring blowby soot also show up there?

Other than that, you would be right most likely on loose ring gaps, improperly spacing ring gaps, crap machine work etc. Did you assemble the block yourself?

I am still curious about the machine work, most people have had reasonable success with their work, but the shop doesn't assemble, just handed me the standard bearings to use telling me it was safe, which at the time I was more paranoid about having a spun bearing vs excessive oil consumption, yet 16k of hard miles, no spun bearings. Still not happy with that however...

My friend assembled the motor and I sort of helped with it and we used a piston ring filer and measured the gaps with a feeler gauge in the block. Outside of the ring gaps, I wonder about the ring gap spacing shifting especially with the cheaper piston ring compressor tool we were using...

[DC231]

You can pull the header and tell if you have leaky valve seals for sure. It will be wet looking right at the bottom of the guide. You will always get carbon buildup but it will be dry if there's no seepage. I'd recommend doing the leakdown test before you decide to pull a spring. If you decide to pull the springs then be sure to plug all the holes in the head that a keeper could possibly fall down into with a paper towel or something. Guaranteed your rings are not even clocked close to where they should be if the cheap screw type compressor was used. Tapered ring compressor are the best in my experience.

[3pedalJohn]

Power number's look like it's a pretty healthy build. I would check your intake ports and manifold for oil. Are you running the vent on the rear of the valve cover that goes into the intake arm like you have in one of your first pictures? If so that's the reason you are burning oil. These B18C1 like to make oil magically disappear. Run a nice oil cooler, quality synthetic oil for a non roller cam application and no crank case venting to the intake and you should really cut back on oil consumption. I have a 160k mile B18C1 running this way for track use and have minimal oil consumption.

For your application I would stay away from non OEM valve guides if you rebuild.

[aw614]

Power number's look like it's a pretty healthy build. I would check your intake ports and manifold for oil. Are you running the vent on the rear of the valve cover that goes into the intake arm like you have in one of your first pictures? If so that's the reason you are burning oil. These B18C1 like to make oil magically disappear. Run a nice oil cooler, quality synthetic oil for a non roller cam application and no crank case venting to the intake and you should really cut back on oil consumption. I have a 160k mile B18C1 running this way for track use and have minimal oil consumption.

For your application I would stay away from non OEM valve guides if you rebuild.

I am still running the vent from the valve cover that goes to the intake arm, should I try blocking it off? I am still running the PCV like the Endyn on-road setup, just from the valve cover. I thought the PCV requires the fresh air vent to operate correctly from all the theories I've read. When I had it venting to atmosphere from the front of the head or the rear, I always ran the vent, but it did produce a thin film of oil on the TB and intake tube.

Is there a recommendation for an oil cooler to use? My 2000 GSR block didn't come with the OEM heat exchanger, but I've been wanting to install it on my current motor, but my spare GSR block that I have is from 94-95 and it has it.

I plan on buying the leakdown tester hopefully today, this week was a bit hectic and DST really screwed my sleep pattern this week

[DC231]

You can check consumption from that valve cover to intake vent by adding an additional homemade catch can setup right to it. I did that by using a 16oz aluminum beer bottle no joke! I put vacuum line coming from the valve cover to about halfway up the bottle and sealed it with hondabond and made sure that the vacuum line was pointed downwards and then I stuck the intake side to the neck of the bottle on the top side and sealed it closed so that way any vapor that came through would collect the fluid in the bottom of the can. I know that sounds kind of ghetto but it definitely works and you would most certainly be able to tell if you are losing oil that way because anything in the beer can would have been sucked right into your intake and blown out the exhaust.