2001 GS-R: Engine rebuild, other refreshments

[Dave7CDMTYPER]

Hopefully someone can confirm this, but I could have sworn I read this in other posts, but people may have had issues with the aluminum TODA cam gears? Or you had to watch out over them? I read about it somewhere, maybe Coolhandluke may have mentioned it before? But it kind of scared me of continuing to use my aluminum TODA gears and instead use the Spoon Gen 1 Cam gears I ended up picking up on FB marketplace a few years ago that were based on the OEM steel gears instead.

Ok thanks for the heads up sir. I will look into it. SPOON cam gears sounds good to me also.

[aw614]

Hopefully someone can confirm this, but I could have sworn I read this in other posts, but people may have had issues with the aluminum TODA cam gears? Or you had to watch out over them? I read about it somewhere, maybe Coolhandluke may have mentioned it before? But it kind of scared me of continuing to use my aluminum TODA gears and instead use the Spoon Gen 1 Cam gears I ended up picking up on FB marketplace a few years ago that were based on the OEM steel gears instead.

Ok thanks for the heads up sir. I will look into it. SPOON cam gears sounds good to me also.

Spoon Gen 1 = Toda Gen 1 and Spoon gen 2 = Toda Gen 2,

[Dave7CDMTYPER]

Spoon Gen 1 = Toda Gen 1 and Spoon gen 2 = Toda Gen 2,

Roger that.

[DC231]

Now I'm just waiting on the machine shops to finish working on my head and block.

I ordered some new Honda oem bottom end bolts and parts, including water pump. Going to get the 4Piston ported oil pump.

For the head, I am pretty sure I will go with:

-Toda A2 cams (on my shelf already)
-Toda valve springs (on my shelf already)
-I guess Ferrea retainers?
-I think OEM ITR valves (Hopefully they will work with the 4P head, otherwise Ferrea)
-Cam gears not sure (Toda or OEM?)
-Timing belt probably OEM

You will need adjustable cam gears to get the maximum performance out of your cams. With the block and head being milled it changes how everything lines up slightly at TDC so your cams will need to be degreed in for maximum performance. With OEM cam gears the cams would be slightly off centerline and be non adjustable.

[Dave7CDMTYPER]

You will need adjustable cam gears to get the maximum performance out of your cams. With the block and head being milled it changes how everything lines up slightly at TDC so your cams will need to be degreed in for maximum performance. With OEM cam gears the cams would be slightly off centerline and be non adjustable.

Ah makes sense! Will definitely go with adjustable cam gears. I've always wondered why people use them instead of oem.

[JDMJNKY]

You will need adjustable cam gears to get the maximum performance out of your cams. With the block and head being milled it changes how everything lines up slightly at TDC so your cams will need to be degreed in for maximum performance. With OEM cam gears the cams would be slightly off centerline and be non adjustable.

I was going to say this but I did not wish to come off as the know it all.

• Never mill a block/head unless necessary

• I'd recommend spending the extra time to degree the cams - do you have to? no, but Is it worth it, given the scenario and its free HP. But, so is porting, port matching, etc

• also a great time to update to the bee hive LMAs if you haven't done so already

[aw614]

Now I'm just waiting on the machine shops to finish working on my head and block.

I ordered some new Honda oem bottom end bolts and parts, including water pump. Going to get the 4Piston ported oil pump.

For the head, I am pretty sure I will go with:

-Toda A2 cams (on my shelf already)
-Toda valve springs (on my shelf already)
-I guess Ferrea retainers?
-I think OEM ITR valves (Hopefully they will work with the 4P head, otherwise Ferrea)
-Cam gears not sure (Toda or OEM?)
-Timing belt probably OEM

You will need adjustable cam gears to get the maximum performance out of your cams. With the block and head being milled it changes how everything lines up slightly at TDC so your cams will need to be degreed in for maximum performance. With OEM cam gears the cams would be slightly off centerline and be non adjustable.

Tuners should be able to compensation for this I believe on s300 if it has been milled even on stock cam gears?

[DC231]

Now I'm just waiting on the machine shops to finish working on my head and block.

I ordered some new Honda oem bottom end bolts and parts, including water pump. Going to get the 4Piston ported oil pump.

For the head, I am pretty sure I will go with:

-Toda A2 cams (on my shelf already)
-Toda valve springs (on my shelf already)
-I guess Ferrea retainers?
-I think OEM ITR valves (Hopefully they will work with the 4P head, otherwise Ferrea)
-Cam gears not sure (Toda or OEM?)
-Timing belt probably OEM

You will need adjustable cam gears to get the maximum performance out of your cams. With the block and head being milled it changes how everything lines up slightly at TDC so your cams will need to be degreed in for maximum performance. With OEM cam gears the cams would be slightly off centerline and be non adjustable.

Tuners should be able to compensation for this I believe on s300 if it has been milled even on stock cam gears?

No. Not b series. Only k series intake cam can do what you are talking about. That's what VTC does. That's why you only see adjustable exhaust cam gear for k series.

It's a physical measurement that's been changed in the 360° rotation of the engine. There's no calibration that can change that..

I'm sure someone could explain it better than me.

[DC231]

You will need adjustable cam gears to get the maximum performance out of your cams. With the block and head being milled it changes how everything lines up slightly at TDC so your cams will need to be degreed in for maximum performance. With OEM cam gears the cams would be slightly off centerline and be non adjustable.

I was going to say this but I did not wish to come off as the know it all.

• Never mill a block/head unless necessary

• I'd recommend spending the extra time to degree the cams - do you have to? no, but Is it worth it, given the scenario and its free HP. But, so is porting, port matching, etc

• also a great time to update to the bee hive LMAs if you haven't done so already

I agree anyone should only mill when necessary.

You are correct that you don't have to. A good tuner will take the time to make adjustments on the gears to see exactly what the engine likes the best in that situation. If you degree them in then there's no need for guess work just set it and forget it..

[aw614]

You will need adjustable cam gears to get the maximum performance out of your cams. With the block and head being milled it changes how everything lines up slightly at TDC so your cams will need to be degreed in for maximum performance. With OEM cam gears the cams would be slightly off centerline and be non adjustable.

Tuners should be able to compensation for this I believe on s300 if it has been milled even on stock cam gears?

No. Not b series. Only k series intake cam can do what you are talking about. That's what VTC does. That's why you only see adjustable exhaust cam gear for k series.

It's a physical measurement that's been changed in the 360° rotation of the engine. There's no calibration that can change that..

I'm sure someone could explain it better than me.

Found this video, this is what I meant. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ysvqFcpS5Ig