2/11/23: I'm getting ready to tear down my OEM distributor that failed on New Years Day. Just figured I would share this stupid information with strangers on the internet who may or may not care. I'll finish it up sometime this week. I will add pictures once everything is complete. ***ADD PICTURES AND PART NUMBERS IN STEPS WITH LINKS***
DISASSEMBLY: You will need a set of JIS screwdrivers: https://www.amazon.com/Sunflag-Screwdri ... C58&sr=8-2
You cannot use regular Phillips screwdrivers.
Remove the spark plug wires, cap, rotor, leak cover, ignitor, and ignition coil from the distributor. There are plenty of writeups on how to do this if you are unsure. Once all that is out of the way, you can remove the sensors/(magnets?) that are inside the distributor housing. Simply unscrew them. Once those are unscrewed, you should be able to pull the wiring harness out of it's small channel in the top of the distributor. Pull it out of the side and store it in a safe place. You are now left with a bare distributor housing that contains the distributor shaft (and associated components), bearing, and inner seal.
Flip the distributor over so you are facing the side that mates with the cylinder head. Take pictures that show how the pieces are aligned. I'm not 100% sure what the correct (official) procedure for this is, so I will simply reassemble so it looks identical to how it did before. Observe a c-clip that sits in a groove. Remove this with an appropriate tool (or two picks/small screwdrivers). You will notice a pin passing through the shaft. Remove it by tapping it out with an appropriately sized tool (pick?). Remove the loose components and retain them in a safe place. Now is a good time to remove the oil seal using a pick. They are a common leak area and are cheap to replace.
See that metal semi-circle plate that the shaft passes through? The bearing is held onto that by a plate that is retained with 3 screws. You're going to have to press one of the shaft components off, then press the shaft out of the bearing before you can access it. Place the plate/shaft assembly onto a press with the gear and star-shaped wheel facing down. Press the shaft through the plate. Retain the crescent shaped wheel with three thru-holes in a safe place. Use your JIS 1 screwdriver to remove the three screws that hold on the bearing retainer plate. The bearing will simply slide out of the housing. The dimensions are as follows (in mm): 28 (D) x 12 (d) x 8 (B).
8 pin distributor connectors: SUMITOMO HW090 Series
Male: 6181-0075, 6918-0333
Female: 6189-0134, 6918-0332
2 pin distributor connectors:
Male:
Female:
ICM to Coil: 30512-PR4-305, "wire, distributor"
Bearing: 6001-012-2NSL-NACHI
Deep groove ball bearing with one contact rubber seal (NACHI NSL)
D: 28mm, d: 12[.5?]mm, B: 8mm
NACHI CATALOGUE: Able to find similar bearings in catalogue, not identical. Can be found thru various distributors.
https://www.nachiamerica.com/content/do ... efinal.pdf
Part catalogue: https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-lis ... butor.html
JDM part catalogue (better availability): https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/hon ... butor-1317
Part numbers if you are too lazy to look through the catalogues:
Cap: 30102-PT2-026
Rotor: 30103-P08-003
Cover, Leak: 30107-P08-006
O-Ring (to cylinder head): 30110-PA1-732
Igniter Unit (superceded): 30120-PT3-003
Igniter Unit (discontinued): 06302-PT3-000
UNFINISHED
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Interesting, I've used STD screwdrivers for 15yrs for this type of job. Please get those pics up, I'd love to see what you saw that I missed.
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