Suspension tuning - dampers, spring rates, etc.

[aw614]

Sway bar question, just received the 25mm eibach/asr bar I purchased from Navin and am wondering if anyone has run the stock endlinks instead of the spherical endlinks that was supplied? (the endlinks are in good shape, but I was looking at all the parts and planning my installation. I am also on the eyelet LCAs btw.

Main reason would be NVH, but posts on hondatech and such mention if it is installed right there shouldn't be any noises. Been searching like crazy, but it seems everyone just installs sphericals and there are not rubber options for integras like EK civics?

It doesn't seem like the stock integra endlinks would work with adjustable sway bars based on being fixed?
Mounting seems a lot different from say an EK civic where the endlink stud slides through a hole on the LCA and you just tighten the lower part of the endlink and the other end goes to the sway bar.

I also plan on running this bar on full soft before to see how it is, since its already stiffer than the stock 22mm bar.

[aklackner]

I ran the 24mm (grey) ASR bar with spherical ends. I haven't had an issue with the endlinks, even while daily driving, but the poly bar mount bushings did make some noise for me, you have to keep silicone lube on them.

With the OEM endlinks keep in mind the rubber bushings weren't intended for the extra force of the up-rated bar so if you do work out a way to use them they could wear prematurely. It will also additionally limit the effective rate of the bar to some degree.

[DC2Iggy]

As long are you make sure you preload the bar before tightening the endlinks you shouldn't have any noise. Also keep in mind that a hollow bar will have a different stiffness than a solid bar. IIRC the ITR rear sway bar is solid so your 25mm hollow bar may act the same as a 22mm solid bar.

[Xian]

Yep, I’d use the spherical end links. If they make noise, it’s play and they’re due to be replaced.

To cut down on dry poly noise, wrap the bar with Teflon tape where it goes inside the bushings. It’ll make a huge difference.

[shuttlepilot]

I never had issues with corrosion on Koni’s (several set, several cars) but we don’t have winter or salt down here. Lol. My guess is that you won’t have issues if the application is limited to summer use.

As far as options, I’d check with Whitener... his stuff is gonna be the best for the price. Buying Koni’s and GC’s is certainly an option but it’s not going to be that much less than the custom stuff from Whitener.

I run Koni coilovers on my daily driver and I can vouch that there is no issue leaking from the shaft from winter use. Lee Grimes told me himself that it wasn't an issue and he was right. I ran them for over 10 years through northeast winters and the things that did go are the aluminum adjustable perches and a spring fracturing from rust.

Koni took care of it every single time. I would buy them in a heartbeat.

[aw614]

Thanks everyone, I'll go ahead and run the spherical endlinks.

[Xian]

I never had issues with corrosion on Koni’s (several set, several cars) but we don’t have winter or salt down here. Lol. My guess is that you won’t have issues if the application is limited to summer use.

As far as options, I’d check with Whitener... his stuff is gonna be the best for the price. Buying Koni’s and GC’s is certainly an option but it’s not going to be that much less than the custom stuff from Whitener.

I run Koni coilovers on my daily driver and I can vouch that there is no issue leaking from the shaft from winter use. Lee Grimes told me himself that it wasn't an issue and he was right. I ran them for over 10 years through northeast winters and the things that did go are the aluminum adjustable perches and a spring fracturing from rust.

Koni took care of it every single time. I would buy them in a heartbeat.

Great points ^^. Lee is a super-rad dude and has hooked me up (and tons of others) through the years. Believe Koni still has a lifetime warranty for the original owner on their street shocks.

[aw614]

I have the worst luck with installing rear sway bars. I should have known I was going to encounter a ton of weird issues that were previously fixed, but rear its ugly hole when I went to install the 25mm bar, I think I damaged the threads that the asr subframe brace has on the kit along with a whole slew of weird issues.

Seriously considering buying that dc2R rear subframe from hmotors and not dealing with the previous crap I initially had a few years back. that showed up when I went to install my brace.

What kind of effect does does driving on only one Sway bar bracket in the rear? Do I lose a lot of its effectiveness if I autocross it? My next event isn't until Dec 9th, so I have time to get everything done.

[aklackner]

I have a spare ASR brace (non-R if that’s what we’re talking about) in black. I can’t use it on the R so it’s yours if you can pick up (91403) or for shipping.

[Xian]

I have the worst luck with installing rear sway bars. I should have known I was going to encounter a ton of weird issues that were previously fixed, but rear its ugly hole when I went to install the 25mm bar, I think I damaged the threads that the asr subframe brace has on the kit along with a whole slew of weird issues.

Seriously considering buying that dc2R rear subframe from hmotors and not dealing with the previous crap I initially had a few years back. that showed up when I went to install my brace.

What kind of effect does does driving on only one Sway bar bracket in the rear? Do I lose a lot of its effectiveness if I autocross it? My next event isn't until Dec 9th, so I have time to get everything done.

If one bracket isn’t attached, you’re going to have a wacky roll rate from the bar. I’d strongly suggest not running/driving the car until it’s fixed... alternately, you could just pull the bar off completely or disconnect the endlinks. With one bracket attached, I’d expect some really strange behavior as the unattached end lurches up and down depending on what the suspension is doing.